Fuel pump access door 2001 Tahoe

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Jdeshler

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So, at 380 thousand miles, the ol fuel pump in the tahoe died.. Pretty good run though I guess right? Haha.. So, having pulled gas tanks in the past made me HATE it.. I decided the fuel pump would be coming to me via the floor board.. Here is my 'write up' guys so be patient an maybe it'll help some other broke, shortcut seaking fool like me!

First things first, the seat goes!
5A3B4A35-9971-4BEA-B3E7-577A950057A3-2976-000002E31F35D906_zps8f54489d.jpg
Here is where to cut the carpet
E346D069-F6DF-4197-B4FC-1D55F944FC4D-2976-000002E3118602BE_zps3a37abdf.jpg
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Next I dilled holes to get my bearings on where the sending unit is, then I cut accordingly.. Remember you only have 1/2 an inch between the floor Pan and gas lines!!
E540320A-7663-4695-B844-DF8E395AAF1B-2976-000002E3369204F3_zps40e11ccf.jpg
I had to break a few tack welds but it gave in and this is the product
DD61C851-8B6F-4E40-9B14-9D313003585D-2976-000002E3C10169F1_zps596f01ff.jpg
It'll be filthy and needs a good vacuuming
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The gas lines pop right off with a squeeze of the pliers on the two tabs
99AE2F4F-EB0D-480D-8AF2-2D957CA014FB-2976-000002E34B0BF50B_zpsaeb0e3c6.jpg
Here are the measurements*
Starting at the c pillar..5F8E73FF-8E3D-4040-99D5-1BBEFB93CA35-2976-000002E35BD0CE34_zps065888b7.jpg
13C1A79D-3EB2-4CAF-8B5F-8BFD0CB53CB1-2976-000002E3820602E2_zpse82c5706.jpg
Then the back of the floor pan
29538427-5FD2-40AC-A560-F0099B3D207F-2976-000002E39C49CD23_zpscaded4ac.jpg
There was no choice but to cut this.. I'll replace it with a rubber gas line
A7861FA0-8382-4FAE-879A-C3E353C31E95-2976-000002E3F51B275E_zpsc41b1be2.jpg
Follow the steps, reverse and youre fuel pump is new!! You will have to reseal the hole with preferred glue.. Well, there's my help to mankind!! Good luck folks.. From 1-10 this job was a 4
Here she is, named her roxanne.. Ya know by the police, because it has so many miles.......
F7974743-C903-49FF-8654-FE8D3AF36B48-3617-000002913C5B514D_zps63faf874.jpg
And 'props to whoevers this is' this is the look I am chasing
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Jdeshler

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Wanted to know what dies in these pumps so i disected it..
Contacts are shot to hell
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EC145B82-C685-4127-9C8B-76EF63446C6C-5162-000004546ED6E065_zpsc1844948.jpg
And the plastic bushings fell out of the end.. I'm suprised these hold up at all
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WRAITH

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2001 Yukon

Just wanted to say thanks for posting the pics and measurements.
I just did the same thing to a 2001 Yukon, and they were very helpful.
I did a quick search online to see if I could find some pics before I got into it to know exactly where to cut.

Couple things I wanted to add, for anyone attempting this shortcut.

You actually don't have to take the back seat out- just fold it forward and there's plenty of room to cut the access panel and remove the pump.

I did drill the 8 spotwelds out with a spot weld tool- that made things easier.
Then I just used the OP's pics and measurements and an air cut off wheel.
Watch the edges of the hole after you cut- I totally recommend knocking the sharp back with a file.
I didn't do this, and when I popped the fuel lines off, the back edge bit me- lost a little blood there.

Also, I wanted to mention that it's a good idea to buy a new pump retaining ring when you do this job (AC Delco TR14), because getting the old one off from the topside is tough and I ended up destroying mine (as I expected).
I've done this same job before on my Avalanche at 200K, so I already knew to buy that along with the new pump and a new filter.

Another thing to know is that all the replacement pumps available require cutting one of the weatherpack connectors off and splicing on a new connector.
Even the $400 factory GM dealer part requires this modification.

Sealed it all back up with some clear silicone, folded the carpet back down, and we're good to go for another 200K.
 
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Jdeshler

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That's true about taking the seat out.. I realized after I cut the carpet that it was unnecessary.. Id say the whole thing took 3 hours and that was in a button up shirt haha! I had to trim my sending unit to take the ac delco fuel pump because it was the cheap airtex brand that the last owner installed.. I also had to put new electrical connectors on it as well but didn't post pics for the sake of not starting a thread with posts that sound like my mom tellin me I should know better lol. Those edges are sharp, I lost a little knuckle meat on it too..
 

redemn93

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i noticed a stud in one of the pics that you cut out. how did you reinstall the patch with the stud and retain structural integrity? looks like a seat mount stud?
 
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Jdeshler

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The stud in the picture is the old jack stud
7B2EAED7-C390-4D37-9C9A-64EAA16B0472-3845-000002AB459041BE_zps86aae145.jpg
I took that jack out awhile back so it was just a useless stud
I just bent it all back down
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I painted the bare metal but haven't glued it yet.. Kind of a 'long' testdrive
 

redemn93

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gotcha. not a bad idea. i have to work on my sending unit but really dont want to drop the tank again...
 
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Jdeshler

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Redemn, there is NO WAY I would drop the tank!! Millions of foreign cars have bolted on access doors.. Problem area or not gm was ignorant for not giving us one.. I am actually having problems with the sending unit in my f350 dually and the bed is getting a panel..

Thanks young28.. That new tank must be nice lol

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------

Actually the hose that connects the pump to the sending unit popped off the next day because I put the clamp on too loose.. I lifted the door, pulled the unit and was rollin again in 15 minutes.. I would have burnt it if I would have had to drop the tank twice in 2 days
 

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