Diagnosing the heated seats switch on the passenger front - no LCD and no backlighting

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WeekenderNutJob

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2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali, just the front passenger seat is not heating.

The powered seat controls all work in the front on both sides, and the heated seat on the divers side works fine, just the passenger heated seat button is unresponsive, so not a main fuse issue. Looking at the wiring diagram, the heated seats plug into the power from the seat memory and power controls on each side, which work on the passenger side, so it's getting power on the passenger seat controls. Since the heated seats on the divers side work, I know it's not the gray heated seat control box ground melting issue that is all over Youtube since from my understanding there is only one and the driver's side works fine. I removed the passenger door panel and the switch is plugged in, but no LCD or backlights on the switch. The passenger seat does not heat up either. It's not the same as the issue where you hit the button, and it flashes or only stays on for a moment, this one side is just unresponsive like it has no power, no LCDs

Questions:
--Is there a good way to diagnose further on just the passenger heated seats switch?
--If the heating element on the passenger seat was burned out, would the button even try to turn on or show anything, or is no power/lcd on the switch indicative of any other issue?
--It is my understanding that there are 2 heating elements, one for the butt and one for the back, so if only one was burned out, I would guess the other should still work and the chance of both going out at the same time is slim, so guessing it's not the elements.
--I am assuming it's an "electronic" switch with multiple settings so simply using an ohm meter with it pulled out of the car is unlikely to net me useful outputs, or does someone know a better way to diagnose it?

Am I missing any other diagnostics before I spend $75 on the replacement switch (which I would think would not go bad often).
 
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WeekenderNutJob

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I can't think of how to tackle this without a scan tool, guess my brain is fried for the day. Stop on by and we'll hook up my Tech-2 and see what the codes are!
I actually have a Tech 2 scanner that I bought on Amazon but it's gotten disconnected and I have to figure out how to get it all reconnected. I didn't even think about using that. I think I'm going to try soldering the wires first it's going to be quicker than trying to figure out how to get the software version of the tech 2 nano scanner I purchased on Amazon working again.
 

swathdiver

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I actually have a Tech 2 scanner that I bought on Amazon but it's gotten disconnected and I have to figure out how to get it all reconnected. I didn't even think about using that. I think I'm going to try soldering the wires first it's going to be quicker than trying to figure out how to get the software version of the tech 2 nano scanner I purchased on Amazon working again.
What do you mean disconnected?
 
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WeekenderNutJob

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What do you mean disconnected?
There's a bunch of software you have to install in order to get the computerized version of the Tech 2 scanner working. On Amazon they're only about a hundred bucks, but they basically run on a software and it isn't working on the computer. I have to get it all reconnected. There's some videos on it in another forum, but I don't have an actual handheld device as much as a USB converter that then runs tech2 software on an old laptop.
 

swathdiver

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There's a bunch of software you have to install in order to get the computerized version of the Tech 2 scanner working. On Amazon they're only about a hundred bucks, but they basically run on a software and it isn't working on the computer. I have to get it all reconnected. There's some videos on it in another forum, but I don't have an actual handheld device as much as a USB converter that then runs tech2 software on an old laptop.
Ok, that sounds like a virtual Tech-2, got it.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Too bad. With a real Tech 2, you'd be well on your way to diagnosing and fixing the problem by now.
 
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WeekenderNutJob

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Update: I pulled the switch apart, resoldered as many of the joints on the board as I could reach (and when I say resolder, I really just remelted the exiting solder by touching the contacts, no new solder was needed), plugged it in and the switch is working like normal. So before you spend $75 for a new one or a used one for about 45 on eBay, try doing what the video linked above suggested, it worked for me.
 

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