Brake hose replacement
- Thread starter Wagnasty
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afpj
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https://m.summitracing.com/search/y...el/yukon?keyword=Russell stainless brake hose
The routing is different than stock for the fronts, but I'm satisfied with the performance
The routing is different than stock for the fronts, but I'm satisfied with the performance
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Goodridge 14196
sumo
dn ʇǝƃ ʇuɐɔ & llǝɟ ı
It's a complete set. 6 lines. The extra 2 replaces the rubber mid lines that above the rear axle.
mals
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I just ordered this set of lines from Goodridge for my 2005 Yukon, and hope to complete my brake upgrades over the long Thanksgiving weekend. Did you have any issue bleeding out all the new brake lines without having to activate the ABS module or StabilaTrak system with a Tech2? I picked up a Motive Power Bleeder, so I am hoping if I force the new brake fluid through the lines without turning on the ignition or pumping the brakes I will avoid trapping air in either of those systems.
Thanks for any pointers in advance. Hopefully the full braking system overhaul will go without indecent and I can post some photos and tips of my own afterward.
Chubbs
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now you guys have me wanting to get a kit of Goodrich lines.
I think you just vacuum out the old brake fluid from the back, pass side caliper and begin adding new fluid just as the old fill reaches the bottom of reservoir. Continue draining until new, clear fluid is running out. After that you do the back, driv side & then front pass, front driv. You don't necessarily have to pump the ABS module unless it was opened or replaced.
For other makes of vehicles, it is common practice to jump the relays to pulse ABS module like Tech2 or any other software does. I've never done it on 1 of these trucks but I'm sure it will work the same way. Just saying for future ref, high end software isn't required to bleed ABS. Furthermore, physically activating the ABS as in driving the vehicle, will move the air into the lines which can then be purged @ the calipers. More time consuming but same results can eventually be achieved. I have a LR with hill-decent option that makes the ABS software obsolete. Just find a steep hill to drive down, push the button and ABS pumps until it doesn't sense any more resistance.
I think you just vacuum out the old brake fluid from the back, pass side caliper and begin adding new fluid just as the old fill reaches the bottom of reservoir. Continue draining until new, clear fluid is running out. After that you do the back, driv side & then front pass, front driv. You don't necessarily have to pump the ABS module unless it was opened or replaced.
For other makes of vehicles, it is common practice to jump the relays to pulse ABS module like Tech2 or any other software does. I've never done it on 1 of these trucks but I'm sure it will work the same way. Just saying for future ref, high end software isn't required to bleed ABS. Furthermore, physically activating the ABS as in driving the vehicle, will move the air into the lines which can then be purged @ the calipers. More time consuming but same results can eventually be achieved. I have a LR with hill-decent option that makes the ABS software obsolete. Just find a steep hill to drive down, push the button and ABS pumps until it doesn't sense any more resistance.
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Gravity and fresh clean brake fluid is your friend.
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