A/C Clutch Front plate - Complete A/C rebuild

[JeanPaul]

Hello guys! So my A/C decided to die on me the other day

And its getting pretty hot out here in Las Vegas already.
Decided to take a look underneath and it turns out I might just have a bad bearing/coil on my compressor.
Already checked all relays, checked for power going to the plug and etc etc.
I already took off the front screw on the clutch plate, but its not coming off.
My guess is coil still either has some kind off magnetic pull on it or something got stuck in between and its not letting it come off easy.
And I need it off to take a look at everything else lol.

Im able to move the pulley by hand but its a bit hard to since its rubbing with the front clutch plate.

Any ideas on how to remove the front plate? It should just slide off shouldnt it?
Do i need to rent one of those tools from AutoZone/Oreillys or something?

 

[rockola1971]

Your clutch is pressed on. You need the removal tool. So you did have 12v at the clutch? You wont if your system is low on refrigerant because of a leak. The low pressure switch will disable 12v to the clutch coil.

 

[JeanPaul]

I did have 12v at the clutch and I even checked the Ohm resistance on the coil and its still within range. I was looking at the removal tool and it looks like it wouldn't work with my compressor. The bolt I took off is a 10mm and after looking at the removal tool in person, the screw portion that screws in is just as big as the bolt I took off.
I have a Denso 10S20F compressor, if that helps.

 

[rockola1971]

I did have 12v at the clutch and I even checked the Ohm resistance on the coil and its still within range. I was looking at the removal tool and it looks like it wouldn't work with my compressor. The bolt I took off is a 10mm and after looking at the removal tool in person, the screw portion that screws in is just as big as the bolt I took off.
I have a Denso 10S20F compressor, if that helps.

Then after removing the center bolt you have a snap ring you should be looking for and removing. Then press the unit off with a 2 jaw puller. Should be similar to this ford.

 

[JeanPaul]

So I went to AutoZone and rented the tool to remove the front hub. NONE of the employees knew how to use the tools or which one I would even need
Even had them bring out a compressor from the back and they still couldn't figure it out .
I rented it anyway and hoping I can figure it out, but it looks like none of tools in the kit are gonna work?
I did come across a YouTube vid of a Denso compressor that looks almost exactly like my unit and it looks like it should just slide off, just to spray a bit of penetrating spray in the center and lightly knock it with a rubber mallet and it should come off.
Gonna try all that tomorrow after work!

 

[Goodinblack]

You have to remove the pressure first

Don't remove clutch under pressure

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[JeanPaul]

So I finally got around to it and the tool I rented from AZ was not even needed. The only thing I used to pull the front hub off was this bolt I had laying around which happened to be the exact width and thread type. Slipped it on by hand and used one of my wrenches to screw it in slowly, and what happened? The front hub was coming off easily as pie with no damage to the rest of the components But unfortunately after taking everything apart and cleaning everything and all, looks like I just have a seized up compressor.


So I ended up going to this trusted shop I have in my area and looked at it and told me I need to replace the compressor/accumulator/condenser and so forth. So everything with all the parts/labor/shop supplies, my total would be $1506.06!!!
So I quickly said thank you very much for your time, grabbed my keys, turned around and walked out the door as quickly as possible lol.
Called a couple other shops and got pretty much the same amount.
Obviously this isn't something I can afford.
I started doing research on the parts Id need, (all new parts of course).

I consider myself a higher level DIY home mechanic lol and im sure I can tackle all this myself over a weekend maybe even in a day(done brakes, swapped axles, ball joints, flushed trannys & etc etc so im pretty savvy, id like to think so at least lol)
Plus I have plenty of tools and lots of patience.

As far as im concerned, these are the parts I need. (Please let me know if im missing anything)
*Compressor - (comes pre oiled to spec)
*Accumulator
*Condenser
*Orifice Tube
*Gasket/Seal set
*A/C Flush
*Refrigerant
*New AC serpentine belt

Now I know I need to go to a shop to get the A/C system discharged so they could remove all the refrigerant.
I figured I can recharge the system myself.
All in all with parts and going to a shop to get the A/C discharged im looking at $495.47 total with parts/taxes.
Pretty much what the shop was charging me for labor on the whole thing.
Definitely a YUUUUUGGGGEEEEE (LOL) difference and thats something I can much better afford.

Definitely need my A/C fixed soon, as temps here in Las Vegas are already reaching 95+ with higher temps coming fast!

Any advice/thoughts before buying all the parts and doing this?

Id be more than happy to document and take pics along the way to show everyone on here!

 

[2011SSVHOE]

You will need a Vacuume pump and a Gauge set, I did mine on my sons 99 K3500 last year took me about 3 hours. easy. Whats wrong with your condenser? also make sure the refrigerant oil is what it says I had to add some.
I also got all my parts new from Ebay

 

[JeanPaul]

Well after the research ive done, and after everything ive read, everytime you change a compressor, its recommended that you also change the condenser. Its recommended since maybe metal fragments from the seized compressor mightve reached the condenser/accumulator and could damage and shorter the lifespan of your new system. I was also thinking of purchasing extra oil in case it does need to be topped off a bit.

 

[rockola1971]

Replace the condenser? Nah! Flush it, thats what the flush is for. Get 3+ cans and do all lines as well as the condenser. Dont forget that you have 2 evaporators that you will be flushing if you have rear air. It really is best to open up the rear a/c lines and isolate them from the front and clean them out separately instead of trying to push flush the whole length of the vehicle.