99 Tahoe cranks, won’t start after it rains

[Green LT]

been having this condition for a couple months. Cranks and starts when dry weather but when even a short rainfall the ol girl just cranks. Pump, battery, starter are good . Mechanic said he couldn’t replicate and pressure from pump is good. Plugs, cap, rotor etc have only 10,000 miles since new also fuel filter. When I crank it gets flooded so I wait several hours then she’ll start right up. Idle is spot on, runs smooth, acceleration is good. Thoughts and input?

 

[drakon543]

what brand cap and rotor did you purchase? my 97 had those exact symptoms twice since i purchased it. ive tried 3 different brand cap and rotor on my Tahoe, 2 of which also included swapping the whole distributor. im kind of stubborn and no parts store around me actually carries the gm one except the dealership. pop your distributor cap off and look for excessive buildup, green splatters, or just the button has worn off already. accel cap has had the tightest fit for me so far.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Is your cap loose? Just like drakon said, this sounds like a cap/rotor condition. Did you have this issue with your old cap and rotor? If not, and if still accessible, I would swap them back temporarily and see if the problem persist. Also check your screw base for any cracks as the screws may be coming loose in the cap. These plastic distributors are known for breaking their ears off.

 

[TigerEyz3]

Agree with the previous posters... most likely a cap/rotor issue.
They're notoriously known for moisture causing havoc with them...even when not cracked.
Internal corrosion (green splatter) and carbonization (from center button) are notable signs of which to be aware.

 

[Tbruz]

slight thread high jack here but somewhat related. Can the ears be repaired on the plastic distributors or do you need to replace the dizzy when this happens?
Thanks
Tbruz

 

[TigerEyz3]

Replacement is typically best. Just be prepared to have a mechanic with appropriate tools make the final adjustments. Even with a marked distributor, you'll set a code - crankshaft has to be electronically mated/paired/synchronized after the distributor is within the physical +/- 2*. Lots of times the distributor gear teeth wear down. The new distributor has fresh teeth and the computer has to have that taken into account (can't do that by eye/feel).