5.7 vortec valve adjustment

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Cronkite

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ok so I followed the manual to the letter on setting the valve lash and when I was finished about half of the rockers were loose. What am I doing wrong? I have spent way too much money on repairing this thing and I really don't want to bend a rod or pinch a hole through a piston lol
 
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Cronkite

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I'm just wondering if I can set it by doing each cylinder individually. Just wait for it to be on it's tdc firing position then set intake and exhaust at the same time. And of course doing it in the firing order
 
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Cronkite

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Thank you for your reply. I have watched tons of videos and read tons of forums. Nobody seems to be on the same page. A definitive answer would be nice.
 

Kenny D

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I'm just wondering if I can set it by doing each cylinder individually. Just wait for it to be on it's tdc firing position then set intake and exhaust at the same time. And of course doing it in the firing order
If you went by the manual and still have some adjustment, I think you would be safe by going cylinder by cylinder and finishing up.
When I did my dad's 90 GMC, I did it the old school way. I got them tight cylinder by cylinder and then started the truck and did final adjustments by loosening and then re tighten until the ticking went away, an old trick by BIL taught me. Still running strong after 5 years.
Although when I did my 99 burb, I followed the book letter by letter and it seemed to work for me. Maybe go through the procedure once more and double check yourself.
 

The Salmon

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Having the same issue. I followed the GM book to the letter as far as removing valve lash in the order specified then turning the rocker arm nut 1 full turn. When I put it all together I had 0 compression in all cylinders except 6. After removing the valve covers, I noticed that the valve adjustment was too tight and luckily did not bend any rods, or destroy any valves!
What am I doing wrong??? Should I check compression after adjusting each cylinder before putting it back together? Or, am I looking at the wrong issue as far as 0 compression? I replaced the head gaskets, did a valve job along with a timing chain and a water pump.
The last time I had rebuilt an engine was 20 years ago! This is the sixth time I've done this and never had an issue until now. So, What is my brain Fart??
 

exp500

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You probably don't have lifters pumped full yet. I still adjust them running. Still have old rocker clips and cut down valve covers. But it still gets oil all over if engine speeds up. I set my lifters at 1/8 turn smallblock/bigblock / Vortec 1/4 turn. I'd rather them be loose than tight.
 

OR VietVet

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The lifters should have been sitting in a pail of oil for a day or two while you were doing other work. I am assuming you replaced lifters with how far you had it tore down. You did not say why you were tore down that far. I am also going to guess at the year since you did not supply that info either.

 

RST Dana

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Having the same issue. I followed the GM book to the letter as far as removing valve lash in the order specified then turning the rocker arm nut 1 full turn. When I put it all together I had 0 compression in all cylinders except 6. After removing the valve covers, I noticed that the valve adjustment was too tight and luckily did not bend any rods, or destroy any valves!
What am I doing wrong??? Should I check compression after adjusting each cylinder before putting it back together? Or, am I looking at the wrong issue as far as 0 compression? I replaced the head gaskets, did a valve job along with a timing chain and a water pump.
The last time I had rebuilt an engine was 20 years ago! This is the sixth time I've done this and never had an issue until now. So, What is my brain Fart??
Full turn seems tight, I always removed the lash, then a quarter turn. Run it a few days and recheck if needed.
 

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