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01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
2011 Yukon Denali 7" FTS lift... custom build for Denali
- Thread starter 01Konvict
- Start date
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01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Thanks! Yes it mounts to the door seam with clips so no drilling. It comes with a hard rubber seal for flare and I added 3m double sided tape to seal it against door. This way it prevents rub wear with rubber seal and no wind flap against body.
OP
OP
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Another update for lift and driveshaft vibrations. Got the adjustable zone upper trailing arms on now. Set them from 10 to 8 to 6 degrees. None of the above angles fixed the vibrations. Actually 6 and 8 are worse than the 10. Stopped by another truck shop today and they recommended to put a dual cardan joint on the transfer case side of shaft then 0 the pinion to shaft. The short shaft between transfer case and rear end at my lift height is causing the vibrations. Calling the driveshaft shop tomorrow to see how much it will cost to replace the yoke end with new joint.
Brian Wilson
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Damn. Glad you are still on it. I'm just going to wait for you to work out all the bugs and then copy the final lift.
01Konvict,
Where in Raleigh do you live?
Not sure what shops you've been to but, have you been to ECGS? They're in or around Brier Creek by 540 and 70. Straight up guys and deal with off road suspension. They might be able to help you out.
Thanks for the info on the flares to
Where in Raleigh do you live?
Not sure what shops you've been to but, have you been to ECGS? They're in or around Brier Creek by 540 and 70. Straight up guys and deal with off road suspension. They might be able to help you out.
Thanks for the info on the flares to
OP
OP
01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
Oh it's a great story!!
01Konvict,
Where in Raleigh do you live?
Not sure what shops you've been to but, have you been to ECGS? They're in or around Brier Creek by 540 and 70. Straight up guys and deal with off road suspension. They might be able to help you out.
Thanks for the info on the flares to
I live off 540 and 50 so close to everything. Haven't talked to them but worked with super trucks, 4 wheel, and fleet pride.
OP
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01Konvict
Boats n Hoes
So let's start with me having rear end vibarations. I kept trying to tweak the angles to eliminate the rear but nothing seemed to work. That's when I built a rear dual cardan joint after 4 shops said that angle will never cancel out. Got a rear shaft built and installed. Set rear end 1.5 degree down of driveshaft angle. I'm sure I could turn it up some more but I'm getting nothing on the rear now.
When driving it I had a nasty front vibration which should be eliminated from the dual cardan shaft from FTS. So I checked out what was going on and found a huge amount of slop in the joint. See video below. I'm scratching my head now cause I just had it rebuilt 1500 miles ago then it dawned on me that the shop cut the front down a 1/4". I decided to pull the shaft out for inspection and part of it came out while part was stuck in the transfer case. This is a major issue because it's a male shaft to female transfer case. The shaft I pulled out is a female to male stud. WTF! So I had to use a slide hammer to get the stud out. Come to find out after inspection there is a threaded hole that uses a large washer and bolt to hold the female cardan joint to a male stud for transfer case. Either the bolt fell out or the shop left it out. The 1/4" they cut down was shaking all over the male stud since it wasn't engaged deep enough. Pulled everything out and got a bolt to make it right again. Used thread locker, lock washer, and high torque setting on the grade 8 parts.
Put it all back in the truck and drove it to 100 mph stomping the shit out of it to make sure it wasn't going to vibrate. All clean with the exception of some minor rotational mass from front shaft which I believe is the weight of the dual cardan. Since I found this issue I called the shop who cut the shaft down without my approval and there covering a new spline male end for shaft. Mine is a two piece and I'm getting a one piece so this will never happen again to the front end. I'm really hoping I'm down with this lift and issues. I have $1500 in driveshaft work now. Anyone who wants to lift big and do it right pull your shafts and take them to the shop yourself to avoid some labor costs. Now on to pictures explaining everything.
Video
http://s211.photobucket.com/user/ba...2-468B-B3AB-77F451BC5A13_zps6ovixcai.mp4.html
Original one piece from GM
FTS shaft appears to be one piece end but really two piece.
Joint that is supposed to be one piece not missing bolt.
When driving it I had a nasty front vibration which should be eliminated from the dual cardan shaft from FTS. So I checked out what was going on and found a huge amount of slop in the joint. See video below. I'm scratching my head now cause I just had it rebuilt 1500 miles ago then it dawned on me that the shop cut the front down a 1/4". I decided to pull the shaft out for inspection and part of it came out while part was stuck in the transfer case. This is a major issue because it's a male shaft to female transfer case. The shaft I pulled out is a female to male stud. WTF! So I had to use a slide hammer to get the stud out. Come to find out after inspection there is a threaded hole that uses a large washer and bolt to hold the female cardan joint to a male stud for transfer case. Either the bolt fell out or the shop left it out. The 1/4" they cut down was shaking all over the male stud since it wasn't engaged deep enough. Pulled everything out and got a bolt to make it right again. Used thread locker, lock washer, and high torque setting on the grade 8 parts.
Put it all back in the truck and drove it to 100 mph stomping the shit out of it to make sure it wasn't going to vibrate. All clean with the exception of some minor rotational mass from front shaft which I believe is the weight of the dual cardan. Since I found this issue I called the shop who cut the shaft down without my approval and there covering a new spline male end for shaft. Mine is a two piece and I'm getting a one piece so this will never happen again to the front end. I'm really hoping I'm down with this lift and issues. I have $1500 in driveshaft work now. Anyone who wants to lift big and do it right pull your shafts and take them to the shop yourself to avoid some labor costs. Now on to pictures explaining everything.
Video
http://s211.photobucket.com/user/ba...2-468B-B3AB-77F451BC5A13_zps6ovixcai.mp4.html
Original one piece from GM
FTS shaft appears to be one piece end but really two piece.
Joint that is supposed to be one piece not missing bolt.
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