I used JB conversions for mine. It was more $$ than that. I did the shorty version of the flange output on the rear of my NP241 (the manual lever on the floor) since i have a 2 door and it's such a short driveline anyway. I changed out from a NP243 (the push button one) and so I knew what I had. Mine was $460 with shipping I think. Again, not cheap but well made. I'm much less familiar with other manufacturers. the little silver dollar sized badge on the back side of your transfer case should have markings punched in it with NP2xx. it's either 246 (pushbutton with autotrac), 243 (Pushbutton) or 241 (manual shift). The bezel looks to be quite faded and out of focus in your picture so you'll need to look closer at that when you have time. As to what it will fit, I think the general rule is to switch from the pushbutton stuff to the manual case for #1 reliability and #2 availability of aftermarket (4x4 enthusiast support) parts. I will mention (unsolicited, I realize) that until you figure out your output on the transfer case, I'd wait on your driveshaft work. the CV joint is not easily swapped out (to a flange or yoke should you go that way) so wait until you have your measurements and do the driveshaft last. My rear driveshaft was stock with the male piece of the slip yoke when I bought my truck. I bought it and immediately switched in a nv4500 and NP241 combo from a 1 ton truck and did a shackle flip to get rid of the driveline vibration I had because of the bad geometry in my rear driveline after the nv4500 went in. Because of said bad geometry, I moved to a CV slip yoke and it was about $375 for the CV install, modifying the slip yoke pieces, labor and balancing. After I got serious about improving the offroad capability of the truck, I then went to the SYE kit from JB conversions and my shaft was another $140 to re-balance after going from slip yoke to flat flange (to match my SYE kit). Of note, I did the same thing up front after my solid axle swap. I stole a front shaft out of a newer f350 (slip shaft with flange on the transfer case side of the shaft). Turned out the CV was badly rusted, needed new joints all around and balancing of course..$350 on top of the $75 junkyard pricetag on the shaft itself. Still cheaper than building from scratch but annoying nonetheless. Yes I did put a flange on the front of my NP241 (from JB also) case to match the flange on the front shaft and then used a 1350 1330 conversion joint to match my dana 44 upfront. Lots of info you probably don't need or care about but I figure I'd put it out there incase anyone is following in our steps. BTW NP8 is an NV246 I believe , the autotrac function (check because I'm not certain). Do you have an "auto" button on your 4x4 cluster?