08 Tahoe PPV electrical issues

[rbrt43]

I am new to the forum and if the questions have been asked and answered, I apologize, but I couldn't find what I was looking for.

I drive a 2008 Tahoe PPV that has started having electrical issues that are sporadic, but seem to be spreading and getting worse. Initially it started with the door locks locking and unlocking while I was driving down the road, then the drivers door cluster stopped working when the door was open. It worked fine when closed, but nothing worked when it was open more than a few inches. Now the driver's door cluster doesn't work, at all. Even when the vehicle has been driven regularly if it sits more than 24 hours, it has to be jumped, even though the battery tests good, and while it will not make a sound when the key is turned, as soon as the jumper cables are attached, it starts without a problem. The last few days, after jumping it, the tach doesn't work, and it shifts very hard from 1st to 2nd, plus it runs very rough and doesn't have much power, although it will eventually gain speed. After driving it for a while, I have been able to kill it for about 10 minutes and the tach resumes working and it shifts normal.

Any help and information is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[rbrt43]

I am new to the forum and if the questions have been asked and answered, I apologize, but I couldn't find what I was looking for.

I drive a 2008 Tahoe PPV that has started having electrical issues that are sporadic, but seem to be spreading and getting worse. Initially it started with the door locks locking and unlocking while I was driving down the road, then the drivers door cluster stopped working when the door was open. It worked fine when closed, but nothing worked when it was open more than a few inches. Now the driver's door cluster doesn't work, at all. Even when the vehicle has been driven regularly if it sits more than 24 hours, it has to be jumped, even though the battery tests good, and while it will not make a sound when the key is turned, as soon as the jumper cables are attached, it starts without a problem. The last few days, after jumping it, the tach doesn't work, and it shifts very hard from 1st to 2nd, plus it runs very rough and doesn't have much power, although it will eventually gain speed. After driving it for a while, I have been able to kill it for about 10 minutes and the tach resumes working and it shifts normal.

Any help and information is appreciated.

Thanks

Also the driver door open warning is displayed, even though it is most assuredly closed.

 

[kbuskill]

Replace the battery cables. Very common issues. The cables get corroded internally and vehicles with multiple control modules don't like voltage variances.

Drivers door open warning is most likely a bad door switch.

 

[rbrt43]

I have looked all around the door and the door jam and do not find a door switch anywhere. Any suggestions?

 

[kbuskill]

It's in the latch. Try spraying some WD40 or something in the latch and opening and closing the door a few times... it may help.

 

[rbrt43]

Thanks, I will try that. The vehicle has 212K+ miles so I am not surprised it is having a few issues. Probably the original battery cables. I read elsewhere that the 175amp mega fuse on the firewall has been associated with some of the symptoms that I am having.

Have you heard anything about that being the cause?

 

[PG01]

Could be but, depends on where you are... ppv wiring is hacked to begin with then when they rip everything out and auction them, they don’t do it right. As ken said... battery cables, check all grounds and the door latch is prob getting gummed up...on the 07-14’s the fuse box underhood splits in 2 and sometimes those get corroded. Check in here for door latch

 

[rbrt43]

Actually, everything hasn't been "hacked out". It is still in service, however, I know what you mean. I have removed equipment from several Crown Vics in the past and generally try to not mess up the factory wiring any more than I have to.

 

[kbuskill]

Thanks, I will try that. The vehicle has 212K+ miles so I am not surprised it is having a few issues. Probably the original battery cables. I read elsewhere that the 175amp mega fuse on the firewall has been associated with some of the symptoms that I am having.

Have you heard anything about that being the cause?

It wouldn't be a bad idea to clean all the connections with baking soda and water, including the mega fuse.