Glad to hear you got it worked out.
This sounds like mine last winter on real cold days. After I called AAA for a jump and the guy tested the battery, he got in and tried to start it about 30 times and it finally started. He informed me he sees this often and is an indicator that the starter is...
This could still be the connector housing. I used one similar to this which has both 4 and 7 pole.
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/GMC/Yukon/2004/HM40975.html?vehicleid=20041172788
One thing I would recommend, if you are going with the full blown system, is to have the bluetooth capability. It is really nice to be able to take the display with you when crawling under the truck and being able to trigger devices (i.e. the EGR vent valve, which I am currently working on, or...
On the stock unit the connector with wires plugs right into the back of the trailer connector housing. The replacement I purchased had wires coming out of back of the trailer connector housing to the mating connector. Take a look at etrailer.com, that's where I get all my trailerin' stuff...
I have a couple of scanners but I can't recommend either for a Denali. Oh sure they do a reasonable job reading engine sensors, graphing data etc but the Denali has so many more interesting things. Eventually a person with a Denali may want to be able to get down into the wheel speed sensors or...
(2) Not sure what your symptom is for the "short" but after fighting with my trailer lights for some time I realized the trailer plug is not connected directly to the wires running to the back. It is a split connector and I replaced the portion that is bolted to the frame and all was well.
(7)...
I changed the bracket and the pads (not that they needed it but I figured what the heck).
After putting it together I jacked up the passenger side so I could spin the wheel to check for a warped rotor but at that point the caliper had not released enough to spin the wheel.
I removed...
I will look at that later today.
Was it obvious the bracket was warped (visual inspection) or were there other indicators (other than the heat)?
Also you mentioned the brakes dragging. Were you able to "feel" that when driving?
Thanks for the reply.
Lou
To all,
I haven't been here in awhile (too much work and too little time) but I am hoping someone might help me out.
About 4 months ago I was driving along and started getting some funnyness from the front end. I pulled over to find my front driver's wheel very hot. The funnyness was...
I am glad to hear that the PXAMG is working out for some but I feel compelled to relate my experience.
Installation of the PXAMG in my 2004 Yukon Denalli occurred last fall. The install was simple enough but I could not get the radio to recognize the iPod.
Every once in awhile I would try...
I never did a write up but here's what I did.
1. Ripped out the EBCM and tied off the wires (might remove them someday)
2. Made/installed a small mounting bracket for the valve.
3. Bought some short brake line to connect the proportioning valve to the master cylinder and installed...
Are you saying you want to get rid of the ABS system? If so that is what I did but you may need to put in a proportioning valve. I got one from Summit that is adjustable so I could throw some extra bias to the rear brakes when I get around to replacing the drums with discs.
If turning on the key to use accessories and that also turns on the relay it kind of defeats the purpose of having the batteries isolated. I think the idea of having an isolated battery setup is so the accessories can be used without running down the main battery.
As far as wiring, my 96 had...
So I guess you are using a switch to isolate the batteries when the truck is not running so you can run accesseries when not discharge the starter battery.
You could make a voltage sensing circuit that would close the relay once the alternator output reaches > 13 volts.
I can't complain about Autozone right now.
Over the weekend I had a front wheel bearing go out on my 04 Denali. I was 500 miles from home and diagnosed the problem Saturday night.
After looking on line, the closest parts store I could find open on Sunday was an Autozone and they had 2...
Relay doesn't drop voltage like the diode isolator. I have read on one of the high powered stereo sites that the voltage spikes you can get on relay closure could possibly cause havoc with amplifiers and other sensitive electronics.
Again here is the relay I used that senses the alternator...
My service manual is for a 96. The extra battery mounts on the driver's side where a storage box had been.
Looking at the Wrangler Power Products website shows the 95 on the driver's side also.
I notice that on my 04 the aux battery mounts on the passenger side.
If I recall correctly, when I was doing research to prepare my truck for rear discs, you can push some of the brake bias to the rear to get those new discs to help you stop better by changing some values in the EBCM.
Since my ABS didn't work anyway due to a bad speed sensor (and I didn't...
The isolator (solenoid or diode type) should be sized to handle the alternator.
I have a 190A alternator and am using a 200A isolator. Not that the second battery will most likely see that much, but I guess that will depend on when I stop adding lighting (spot lights etc) and what I want to...
The switch on the transfer case simply applies power to the actuator once the t-case is engaged.
I would pull the plug on the actuator then select 4WD and see if the fuse blows. If it does, then that would point, most likely, to the encoder or a short in the wiring.
If you want to go that route I have a 240 amp version that was never used. I decided to go with the Smart Relay type because I had too many other things I was adding under the hood and that 240 A brick took up too much room.
BTW are you sure that 120 Amp device is sufficient?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.