Check transmission fluid level. Drain some Tcase fluid and look for glitter and check the magnet of the tranny and the Tcase for chunks. You will need to drop tranny pan to check the magnet.
I disagree. Its almost always either a bad/worn TPS, Its associated wire harness (broken wire), Bad TAC module wiring harness (broken wire), Bad TAC module, Bad/worn Foot pedal Pot or ground issue. In that order of most likely fault.
Chain stretch is very common on a high mileage transfer case. If not caught fast enough it results in the chain chewing up the inside of the case and come peaking out of a YUGE hole that it has made which destroys the case.
https://www.allstategear.com/NP246-Chains-s/2472.htm...
Have a look at your upper control arms. The eccentric cams specifically. See if there are signs of being moved which throws the angle of the tire where it meets the road out (caster/camber). Also a common result of a deep pothole is a bent tie rod. It will be obvious and it will be your inner...
There are 4 possible causes to the symptoms the OP listed.
First is a bad battery. Has a weak cell and cant put out the correct voltage under load.
Second is a bad alternator. And if the alternator is the cause it certainly can ruin a battery due to overcharging.
Third is silver migration in...
Thats the typical culprit...but that problem will produce a "reduced engine power" on the cluster and the engine RPM will default to around 1000rpm no matter what your throttle input is. If you were just having stalling problems then I would replace fuel filter AND the pump, esepcially when the...
OP wrote "“low engine power”...Did you mean reduced engine power? If so this is a clue and usually means you have the dreaded broken wires at the throttle body for the fly by wire. A wire breaks in that harness and you will get that reduced engine power along with just above idle max throttle...
When you squeezed the caliper pistons back in so you could install the thicker brake rotors, you may have ended up with a leaking piston seal and now have air in your brakes. Start checking for brake fluid on rotors and calipers.
Your master cylinder and booster are not the culprits here. Everytime you crack open a brake line connection you are letting air into the system. That is a no go. The brakes will have to be bled....but likely they will need bled anyway AFTER you replace the collapsed rubber brake hose that is...
TCCM is likely lost because of a dirty or faulty Tcase Position Sensor (commutator) that is built into the shift moder (but is replaceable). This is the most common fault with the symptom you have. Doesnt hurt to get the codes that are thrown before throwing parts at it though.
Yup a cracked flexplate will mimic the noise in the vid too. The noise comes from the flexplate distorting outward around the crack and the nearest torque converter bolt head strikes the bellhousing area.
The carbon restricts or completely stops the pintle from moving depending on where it gets wedged. It can wedge between the pintle and the inner bore of the IAC or behind or in front of the pintle reducing or completely stopping any movement inward and outward. This was a very common problem...
Sounds like a torque converter bolt backed out and its head is striking something or possibly a rock jumping around in the area of the torque converter. Is the plug still in place?
With power applied(ignition key in the on position) push neutral switch on dash. (for models with auto4wd and no neutral button but have a neutral light you just push 2wd and 4wd Hi both at the same time for 10secs or longer and it will go into neutral position). Turn sector shaft on Tcase all...
Cold starts require a rich fuel mixture (aka choked). You may not be old enough to remember carburetors and automatic chokes and before them manual chokes. In fuel injection to obtain a "choked" condition the on time is just increased on the injectors. In carbs they just mechanically shut the...
The "I would command mine to 4HI but it would actually be in AUTO" is the tattle tale. If you hear the motor move when commanding to 4hi and it is actually in Auto then you wont see the change in the tech II or any other scanner because the feedback (position) signal comes ultimately from the...
The engine has 162k on it. It aint even broken in yet, to LS standards. That engine will get 300k easily, all you gotta do is change the oil and not rap it out like its a race car all the time. If it aint broke, dont fix it. Id just drop the tranny if all you gotta do down on the bottom is...
You didnt end up with a highly efficient water pump that none of us have..... Its your thermostat and its the wrong one. The opening temp is stamped right on the flange of the thermostat. Check your old one if you still have it. Otherwise lookup what yours takes and make sure you have that value.
Check red dot marked area all the way around rear case half. Yellow circle marks an actual pump rubhole. Check that area all the way around the case. For some reason the rubholes almost always end up on the passenger side of the case rear and usually on the top half.
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