I have a single 12" Type-R ported to 32Hz, and it get down to around 25Hz before it rolls off very quickly. I need more power and more cone area if I want to play around in the frequencies you do. :D
Have you tried the slowed version of "Hoods Run Down" by Lil Wyte that gets down to 12Hz? I...
How is your fuel economy with that combo?
The acceleration is wicked from those videos.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost total to get the performance to where it is now?
Type S have a very dry sounding mid range IMO, and the titanium tweets on Infinitys make my ears bleed. I don't like the sound of either.
I would do a set of amplified comps up front and skip the rear speakers. Hooking up aftermarket speakers to the weak amp in the HU or the weak amp from the...
You're in luck, a 2003 has a DD slot so you can easily toss a NAV unit in there with all of the goodies.
I would personally recommend Kenwood if you're going for a NAV system, the Garmin in the Kenwood is superior to Alpine's NAV in my opinion (Alpine would be my second choice for NAV)...
I meant to say sail panels, I don't why I said the pillars. The sail panel is that little triangle panel inside of the mirror, the location shown in that picture in your OP. My tweets are installed in the uppermost location inside the speaker grill on the front doors (about at me knees), and...
I'd recommend a new HU. It allows you to completely bypass any of the stock wiring and run all fresh wiring to the new speakers and amps, gives more tuning, and iPod integration (assuming you buy an iPod deck).
How much power are you going to run? If you're running under 1000RMS, you'll most...
My recommendation:
Amp'd comps up front, mids in the stock location, and tweets in the pillars firing off axis. Don't both with rear fill. 100RMS on a front stage with solid deadening and a solid set of comps is plenty loud enough. Adding more speakers in the rear just detracts from the front...
IMO, there's no need. If you want to go for it, you can. It'd be an interesting set up and would turn heads, but reducing the airspace to each sub would be more detrimental than any potential gain by running a push pull setup. Airspace plays a huge factor into a subs sound, you'll lose...
The benefit of doing single subs is you only have to buy one, so you can spend you sub budget on one sub, and not have to split it between 4 subs.
I built an easily removable ported box. It's 2.5 ft^3 @ 32Hz, and I have u-bolts around third row seat mounts and a tie strap that runs behind...
What is it that you're lacking?
The enclosure is a larger dictator of sound that any other factor when doing a sub stage.
Post up the specs to your box, and then your goals with the new system, chances are, a new box could be your solution. It'd be much cheaper than going out and buying all...
What are the specs on that box? It looks pretty good, but I'd deaden that rear hatch with the sub being so close. It'll reduce the rear hatch vibrations a lot.
Why not just build an amp rack for under the rear seats? I'll take some pics of mine tomorrow and post them. It made it easy to mount...
The alt probably doesn't put out more than 130A at cruising RPM. Try sitting in a parking lot and cranking it. Slowly raise the RPM while in neutral until the dimming quits. If the dimming persists regardless of RPM, I'd check your ground.
Most installs I've seen have poor grounds, and a poor...
Absolutely brace it, that's a large box with large subs, it'll need the support.
Build it subs up port back. That port will take up quite a bit, you might want to shoot for 9ft^3 before port and displacement of the subs and displacement of the bracing.
You might want to enlist in the help of...
Avoid the RE box calculator at all costs, it's notorious for being inaccurate.. WinISD is free and pretty good. BassBox Pro is a fantastic program also, but it costs $150.
Determine your required volume and tuning frequency, plug those into a box calculator, I recommend WinISD or the 12v electronics site. Then design the box around the required port length and volume. You'll probably want 125 in^2 or more of port area.
Once you decide on required volume and...
Try and find Focal's demo CDs. They've got some good content. CDs 1 and 2 are the best for tuning IMO, but there's 9 of them out there.
I would recommend picking a song that you've listened to many, many times, and tune by that. I have a few that I use. I use only 256kbs+ rips for tuning (my HU...
FWIW, our 2007 Escalade has the stock Nav, and it's a terrible unit. You can't do anything on the screen while driving, not even scroll through the list of radio stations. It's their way of promoting "safety" by not allowing you to touch anything, so if you're on the highway, you have to pull...
What boxes are they in? The box makes all of the difference, if yours are in a small sealed box and his are in a properly built ported enclosure, his will be much louder.
---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:29 AM ----------
The MBQ Discus were benched and...
Every time you double power you gain 3db (ignoring power compression), so going from 1000RMS to 1500RMS will gain you 1.5db, hardly noticeable unless you meter it. That being said, buy as much power as you can afford, it'll give you more options for upgrades down the road.
The parametric EQ allows you to fine tune certain frequencies beyond what a graphic EQ offers. Your EQ is only a 2, a 3 band would have been much better, but a 2 band PEQ is still a good feature. It'll allow you to select you frequency rather than being stuck with predetermined frequencies like...
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