Just ordered! Saved $2 but still cost about $50 with shipping and tax. Now just need to research how to put it in without destroying the headliner...Thanks again everyone..
Just a heads up. From what I understand the D/S mount fixes the clunk and the P/S mount clears up the vibrations. I've had the stoplight rumble on my Burb for a few years now and replacing the P/S mount is on my list if things to do.
Not sure 100% if it's plug and play. I think you might have some tuning issues with the computer so maybe grab that as well from the Tahoe. Im sure others with more knowledge will chime in. I would definitely swap in new motor mounts when you have the motor out!
About to cross 200 thousand and 12 years with mine and no end in sight! I joke with my wife that she can use it as a hearse to carry my coffin. Lol. The only reason I've been able to keep it though is by doing all the work myself. If I had to pay for $100 dollar oil changes and $500 oil pressure...
You can order a complete set of take-off handles for $20. I believe the rod is included but double check.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?pub=sportscardforum&toolid=10001&campid=5338805062&customid=&mpt=472696&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F114426773314
I'm thinking flip the seat back and try and take the door panel off somehow. Or if any piece of the door handle is left outside drill a screw into it so you can move it? On a side note. This guy below sell GM o.e.m. door handle take offs on ebay for only $20 for the entire set. I grabbed a set...
Got some quarter panel rust on my 10 Burb behind the rear door just above the side step. No plans on ever getting rid of the truck so might have to pick up a Harbor Freight welder and start YouTube 'ing how to change a quarter panel!
The job isn't completely horrible. Especially the D/S. I used my electric impact gun on the mount to frame bolts, jacked the engine up on the cat and then folded up the heat shield and used a swivel head socket and some swivel attachments. After twisting the mount around like a rubix cube I got...
Tell me about it! My d/s daytime running light has been out for 3 weeks and for whatever reason I can't bring myself to set aside the 10 minutes to pull thr liner and replace it. I'd rather pull a cylinder head....
I did both of mine two week ago. D/S wasn't bad but P/S was p.i.t.a. Lots if YouTube videos showing many different angles of attack. If the exhaust manifold was removed both side would be a cake walk but that's no easy feat on old truck. I would say the below swivel attachments are mandatory to...
Your mechanic is probably recommending an engine replacement just to cover his back with any future issues that could pop up on a 200,000 mile motor. The very least you could do is pull the head and have the valve seals repaired and maybe you'll be good for awhile...
Any unnatural noises coming from the engine while it's running? Maybe something that sounds like an exhaust leak but is actually a failing lifter. There are specific procedures to test and rule out everything else like spark, fuel and air and when you've confidently ruled them out it usually...
Double check that all the pipes are clicked all the way onto the canister. Same thing happened to me and I found one of the pipes not seated properly and wasn't clicked in. I ended up getting a code for a large leak though.
Replaced both my mounts on the 08 Yukon this weekend. The D/S wasn't that bad but passenger side was a PITA! For passenger side I removed the wheel, wheel house liner and starter to get it done. Drivers side I didn't need to remove anything but the mount. Definitely need an impact tool, makes...
I know this is an old issue but this article just popped up on my feed regarding GM dealing with rusty frames on older trucks. I don't think it's a recall but looks like they do bear some responsibility. Are the really gonna jump down this rabbit hole...
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