Shudder at light throttle

kbuskill said:

My brother went with a remanufactured unit from LKQ for his 2012 Silverado 6L80E.

They had the best price for the warranty offered.

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Curious on price.

I still have my shudder too even after all the troubleshooting on here. Its not as bad as it was after adding shudder fixx and other stuff but still exists in the right environments (low throttle & inclines. If floored or aggressively driving, no shudder. If low throttle on straight road or decline, no shudder. Planning to drive it until tranny goes or gets worst.

Meccanoble said:

Curious on price.

I still have my shudder too even after all the troubleshooting on here. Its not as bad as it was after adding shudder fixx and other stuff but still exists in the right environments (low throttle & inclines. If floored or aggressively driving, no shudder. If low throttle on straight road or decline, no shudder. Planning to drive it until tranny goes or gets worst.

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Don't know if area has any affect on pricing but here in N. FL. It cost him about $3500... the crate came with everything including new torque converter and even all the transmission fluid needed.

Does it still happen if you don’t use over drive like if you keep it in d3? Usually tc shudders happen at lock up under light throttle. One other thing that comes to mind is motor mounts

I have good motor mounts and recently replaced ones too but same issue. I remember testing in a manual setting and still felt it but will monitor in D3. Interesting enough, when I drive in cruise control during periods where light throttle would be needed, the shudder isnt there but I can feel a slight struggle at times, just not as bad as it would be for me if I didnt try to adjust my driving. I'll monitor in D3.

Can a Tech 2 read torque converter slippage?
I’m convinced you guys are seeing that. I had the same once on my old 93 hoe.

I was so curious about driving in manual, I did a few tests. Here are what I discovered:

1) The shudder issue happens at super low rpm (1200-1700 rpm)
2) The truck is at high gears (I took a pic and the norm where I feel it is doing 50 mph in 5th gear (assuming 6th as well) about 1500 rpm
3) When I'm in D3, I'm going way too fast to feel shudder. The shudder comes at cruising speed (45-60 mph) depending on gear

It acts as if its too low of a gear to drive. Doesnt want to downshift and rather fight through. Is this common when cruising under low throttle to sit well under 2k, especially in the cases I've seen where I'm at 1500 or even lower sometimes? When I'm in Manual driving, shudder is non existent because I can control my rpm's and never drove under 2k rpm in any manual car. The picture I took shows rpm @ 1400 rpm @ 52 mph

Follow up:

So the shuddering continued with all other counter-measures applied. I dropped the Tahoe at the local dealer and asked if they'd diagnose the shudder. He called about 2 hours later and said the tech drove it hooked to the computer and in real-time disabled the torque converter lock. Zero shudder in all driving configurations. After researching and also considering my local shops and friends in the business, I went with a Jasper rebuild with all the updates and mods, and the shudder is completely gone. I have 50,000 miles and 3 years to break it on their dime. Thanks for all of the advice and knowledge!

Thanks for update. How much was that Jasper rebuild and what does it come with? I dont plan to touch mine until it dam near completely fails but wanted to know the direction I'll go when its time.

Denslow Burhans said:

Follow up:

So the shuddering continued with all other counter-measures applied. I dropped the Tahoe at the local dealer and asked if they'd diagnose the shudder. He called about 2 hours later and said the tech drove it hooked to the computer and in real-time disabled the torque converter lock. Zero shudder in all driving configurations. After researching and also considering my local shops and friends in the business, I went with a Jasper rebuild with all the updates and mods, and the shudder is completely gone. I have 50,000 miles and 3 years to break it on their dime. Thanks for all of the advice and knowledge!

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So just a torque converter or a whole trans replacement?