Has it been doing so since day 1? Mine had been doing this since day 1. I thought it was a problem with a caliper or something, until I read the thread on the slip yoke issue, and how some people were lubing the slip yoke.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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well I bought it used, but ya basically it has been doing it for as long as I can remember, it really seems like it is coming from the front but the dealer said the engine mounts are good, it had just had a new one installed before I bought it, then when they put the new engine in it got another new mount, when I had the differentials rebuilt I asked them to check the motor mounts also and they said they are good, I just haven't pursued it beyond that but I probably should before it causes some other problems, it will do it if I hard accelerate from a stop or already moving it does it either way. I could be doing 45 and punch it and it will clunk.
That sounds a little different than what I had. I would only experience it when I would come to a stop. When I would come off the brake, it would clunk like pressure was relieved somewhere. I guess the nickle plating on the slip yoke keeps whatever in the trans from seizing...
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/slip-yoke-with-internal-or-external-snap-rings.67683/
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/drive-line-clunk-and-fix.38275/
http://fortwayneclutch.com/product/1330-series-gm-26-27-spline-nickel-plated-transmission-driveshaft-slip-yoke-skus-2-3-01433x-5001433/
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/nickel-plated-slip-yoke.72470/
93blkongreenpro
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Gonna try the black 1st and see if I like it. If not, I'll spray the metalizer. 
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Well after spending so much time 2 weeks ago detailing the Tahoe the wife decided she didn’t like the wax on the drivers rear
Hard to see but the door handle had to be completely painted and right by the body line of the wheel well was scratched pretty bad. But only the clear coat
About 30 mins later and only the door handle needs painting
Hard to see but the door handle had to be completely painted and right by the body line of the wheel well was scratched pretty bad. But only the clear coat
About 30 mins later and only the door handle needs painting
I have a question on a 2007 Yukon SLE 4.8L v8. I bleed my brakes the other day because i wanted to flush out old fluid. I did the 2 person method, one person pumps 3 times, while leaving pedal on the bottom, second person opens bleeder then closes bleeder and repeats. I started with the right rear side then left rear, and everything was going good. As soon as i opened the the front right bleeder valve, alot of air came out and now the brake pedal drops to the floor. any suggestions on how i can fix this?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Jesus, Get yourself a subscription to AllDataDIY for your truck. It will have the complete process to bleed your brakes and a troubleshooting guide should it go wrong. I thought these things had to be done with a scan tool? Haven't messed with the hydraulic side of my brakes yet so IDK.
were you keeping the reservoir full? sounds like you ran all the fluid out during the process
Scan tool for bleeding brakes? Potentially yes, if you are messing with the ABS, but if you are just doing your normal bleeding, there's no scan tool needed.
Drok
Full Access Member
Got my truck in for an oil change at work and ended up needing ball joints 
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