Push to start button install

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Blackie

Blackie

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Hell Yeah Bro. Definately gonna look into doing this setup on mine. How much $ in all did u spend on everything?

View attachment 192356

I spent:

DEI 5305v alarm/remote start unit-$118 ebay
DEI DBALL2 bypass module-$37 ebay
DEI 530t window modules (2) $60 ebay
DEI VSM300 smart start module-$108 ebay
Smart start activation-$15 ebay
DEI 2102T passive keyless system-$20 amazon
Push to start kit-$20 ebay
Wire, relays and connectors-$30

Total-$408 Total parts


So no more key ! The alarm arms and disarms it?


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Yes. I specifically bought this push to start kit because it integrated to my aftermarket alarm system. There is a wire that hooks up to the alarm so when the alarm is armed it kills power to that wire that powers the push to start button. When I disarm the alarm, it sends power to that wire that powers the push to start button allowing the truck to start. No need for me to use keys anymore. I only have a small keyfob on my keyring which is the sensor for the 2102t system to automatically unlock the doors when I walk up to the vehicle. My keys never leave my pocket. With this setup I really don't even need that fob. I can arm/disarm the alarm system from my phone and then get in and push the button and go!

Also, nothing I have done above is permanent. I can remove everything and the truck will function with the key like it did before I installed everything.
 

4myfreedom

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I spent:

DEI 5305v alarm/remote start unit-$118 ebay
DEI DBALL2 bypass module-$37 ebay
DEI 530t window modules (2) $60 ebay
DEI VSM300 smart start module-$108 ebay
Smart start activation-$15 ebay
DEI 2102T passive keyless system-$20 amazon
Push to start kit-$20 ebay
Wire, relays and connectors-$30

Total-$408 Total parts




Yes. I specifically bought this push to start kit because it integrated to my aftermarket alarm system. There is a wire that hooks up to the alarm so when the alarm is armed it kills power to that wire that powers the push to start button. When I disarm the alarm, it sends power to that wire that powers the push to start button allowing the truck to start. No need for me to use keys anymore. I only have a small keyfob on my keyring which is the sensor for the 2102t system to automatically unlock the doors when I walk up to the vehicle. My keys never leave my pocket. With this setup I really don't even need that fob. I can arm/disarm the alarm system from my phone and then get in and push the button and go!

Also, nothing I have done above is permanent. I can remove everything and the truck will function with the key like it did before I installed everything.
This will work with my Excalibur alarm and auto start ?


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OP
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Blackie

Blackie

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This will work with my Excalibur alarm and auto start ?


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As long as your alarm has a negative trigger when armed wire then it should. That is the wire that kills the power to the push to start button when the alarm is armed.
 

exninja

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At first I was like "why?" but then I decided that's pretty cool. Congrats!
 

shreksbrother

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To piggy-back off of your cool project, I just completed installing passive key/push button/remote start in my Yukon.

Since I did not have an existing alarm system, my deployment consisted of three parts:

The passive key/remote start/push button kit:
http://a.co/csjbOor
As with any other kit, the wiring is a bit complex, but it was made easier by my next purchase...

The brains of the operation:
http://a.co/amVWCIi
I understand this is not 100% necessary, but it really made wiring everything up a snap. Unfortunately, I did not realize that it had to be programmed, which led me to my third and final purchase of the project...

The programmer:
http://a.co/dlrcx4B
This little hockey puck allowed me to program the brain, and made life incredibly easy. It defeats Passlock, initiates the lock/unlock process, and a few other features I did not use.

The Fortin device also had an awesome wiring diagram that makes it Barney simple to do all of this magic.

Everything cost me about $240. I plan to sell the programmer since I'll likely never again use it, so hopefully that'll put my cost down to about $200.

As mentioned by the OP, you do have to disable the ignition shift interlock. It took me longer to separate the halves of the surround than to defeat the interlock.

Now my key fob stays in my pocket, I walk up to the Yukon, it unlocks. I get in, press the start button and away I go. I walk away and it locks... Very spiffy.

Next on my list is to buy a pair of rear door handles to replace the front ones (to eliminate the key holes) and to get my trunk button keyed to the Yukon for emergency entry. It is also worth noting that the starter kit I bought has this keypad that goes on the inside of the windshield. You can then type in a code (that you set) to gain access if the fob battery dies. Automagically the keypad works through the glass... No clue how that happens.

After that (and once this has proven itself for a few months) I will design and 3D print something to cover over the ignition switch... That way I do not need to actually remove it but can retain it in case of failure of this sstem.

I'm very pleased with the setup. Worthwhile and nearly invisible setup except for its convenience! Plus the remote start feature will be priceless as my company is relocating me to Michigan in a few weeks!
 

4myfreedom

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To piggy-back off of your cool project, I just completed installing passive key/push button/remote start in my Yukon.

Since I did not have an existing alarm system, my deployment consisted of three parts:

The passive key/remote start/push button kit:
http://a.co/csjbOor
As with any other kit, the wiring is a bit complex, but it was made easier by my next purchase...

The brains of the operation:
http://a.co/amVWCIi
I understand this is not 100% necessary, but it really made wiring everything up a snap. Unfortunately, I did not realize that it had to be programmed, which led me to my third and final purchase of the project...

The programmer:
http://a.co/dlrcx4B
This little hockey puck allowed me to program the brain, and made life incredibly easy. It defeats Passlock, initiates the lock/unlock process, and a few other features I did not use.

The Fortin device also had an awesome wiring diagram that makes it Barney simple to do all of this magic.

Everything cost me about $240. I plan to sell the programmer since I'll likely never again use it, so hopefully that'll put my cost down to about $200.

As mentioned by the OP, you do have to disable the ignition shift interlock. It took me longer to separate the halves of the surround than to defeat the interlock.

Now my key fob stays in my pocket, I walk up to the Yukon, it unlocks. I get in, press the start button and away I go. I walk away and it locks... Very spiffy.

Next on my list is to buy a pair of rear door handles to replace the front ones (to eliminate the key holes) and to get my trunk button keyed to the Yukon for emergency entry. It is also worth noting that the starter kit I bought has this keypad that goes on the inside of the windshield. You can then type in a code (that you set) to gain access if the fob battery dies. Automagically the keypad works through the glass... No clue how that happens.

After that (and once this has proven itself for a few months) I will design and 3D print something to cover over the ignition switch... That way I do not need to actually remove it but can retain it in case of failure of this sstem.

I'm very pleased with the setup. Worthwhile and nearly invisible setup except for its convenience! Plus the remote start feature will be priceless as my company is relocating me to Michigan in a few weeks!
ok I have an Excalibur alarm how would my install differ?



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shreksbrother

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ok I have an Excalibur alarm how would my install differ?



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@Blackie may be able to answer better since he had an existing alarm. I do know the kit I got for the remote start has an alarm interface built in, so it's worth exploring if you go that route.


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