Bounce in Suspension, Maintenance Schedule

JTsYUKON · Jan 20, 2018

2014 Yukon SLT with the 5.3 and 4H. Have 95,*** on her. She doesn’t seem as smooth as she once did. Bounces when we hit dips. I was thinking it might be time for new struts. What do you suggest? Or if you think it might be something else, what could it be?

Also, the maintenance schedule says replace the TCase fluid at 95,000. We hardly ever use the 4WD. Is this necessary? What fluid do you recommend?

Anything else I might need to refresh at 95,***?

swathdiver · Jan 21, 2018

At 95K or 100K you should be changing all of your drive line fluids, use the factory fluids specified in your owner's manual. Yes, the axles still turn in the front differential even if you do not use it. You should use it or you'll lose it due to lack of exercise, something will get gunked up.

Change your Front and Rear Differentials, Transmission and Transfer Case. Plugs and Wires are due too. How is the coolant? A quick search will provide you with the part numbers and quantities and capacities that I and others have recently posted.

As for the ride, what size wheels and tires and how old are they? Check for blown shocks and struts. Others will chime in soon...

How do you like the Cruise Grade Braking and Powertrain Grade Braking and Hill Start Assist?

JTsYUKON · Jan 21, 2018

swathdiver said:
At 95K or 100K you should be changing all of your drive line fluids, use the factory fluids specified in your owner's manual. Yes, the axles still turn in the front differential even if you do not use it. You should use it or you'll lose it due to lack of exercise, something will get gunked up.

Change your Front and Rear Differentials, Transmission and Transfer Case. Plugs and Wires are due too. How is the coolant? A quick search will provide you with the part numbers and quantities and capacities that I and others have recently posted.

As for the ride, what size wheels and tires and how old are they? Check for blown shocks and struts. Others will chime in soon...

How do you like the Cruise Grade Braking and Powertrain Grade Braking and Hill Start Assist?

Great info. Thanks.

17” wheels with 265/70r17 tires. Replaced Friday with Nitto Terra Grappler G2, so good to go there.

I wish I knew what the Cruise Grade Braking, Powertrain Grade Braking and Hill start Assist were! Need to research there.

In the meantime I’ll crawl under and check for fluid leaks out our shocks, struts and try to find the fluid capacities and take a look to see if I need any special tools

JTsYUKON · Jan 21, 2018

Ok, got under this beast. Learned how to drain and change my ATF and TCase Fluid. All around about $120 at Amazon Prime. Struts and shocks not leaking. That’s good. Saw this on the drivers side covered in gunk. I suppose dripped down on it. What part is this and what fluid do you think that could be on it? The one on the passenger side is clean.

swathdiver · Jan 21, 2018

Some of the best prices will be found at Amazon. The transmission can be a pain, I took mine to the dealer and let them do the back flush and flush with their machine. Get a subscription to ALLDataDIY and it will have everything you need to know and then some.

Is your power steering fluid low? These are your inner and outer tie rods, and unless I'm mistaken, you have a leak on your rack and pinion. That being said, I believe its better to change the whole thing out rather than take it apart and replace a seal, at least on my Montanas. Let's see what more experienced hands have to say. The tire guys should have noticed this and brought it to your attention. They might have missed out on some work!

When you do the rear differential, drop the spare for more room and to exercise the hoist and allow you to clean that area up too. You can reuse the original gasket without sealant.

JTsYUKON · Jan 21, 2018

swathdiver said:
Some of the best prices will be found at Amazon. The transmission can be a pain, I took mine to the dealer and let them do the back flush and flush with their machine. Get a subscription to ALLDataDIY and it will have everything you need to know and then some.

Is your power steering fluid low? These are your inner and outer tie rods, and unless I'm mistaken, you have a leak on your rack and pinion. That being said, I believe its better to change the whole thing out rather than take it apart and replace a seal, at least on my Montanas. Let's see what more experienced hands have to say. The tire guys should have noticed this and brought it to your attention. They might have missed out on some work!

When you do the rear differential, drop the spare for more room and to exercise the hoist and allow you to clean that area up too. You can reuse the original gasket without sealant.

About six months ago I was low on power steering fluid and so I filled it to the proper level. I just checked this afternoon and it was only slightly low, maybe 1 to 2 mm. So I added a bit more. I’m thinking I should clean off the tire rod ends and keep an eye on it for short while. Also want to hear what others have to say about this.

Watched a good video on how to change The automatic transmission fluid. Looks a little difficult, but I’m working on my jeep all the time so probably not too bad. Thanks so much for help

swathdiver · Jan 21, 2018

Anytime. Keep an eye on your alignment too especially since you just put on new tires. Watch for inside or outside toe wear on that side.

If salt hasn't corroded the nuts and studs, you more easily can drop your y-pipe and change about 1/2 the fluid.

On a side note. GM introduced the next generation pickups in 2014 and they use a new computer system. I have not seen a 2014 like yours but I believe your truck would still have the previous generation's computer system as it is the previous generation. That means that Tech2 scan tools should work on it, even if you had to call it a 2013. Do you live in Florida by chance? Eventually I'd like to confirm this as I plan to buy a couple more of these trucks over the years. We are told and our software says they only go to 2013.

Doubeleive · Jan 21, 2018

if your able I would change the rack n pinion, these are not generally known to leak that I know of so you could probable save some money and go with a used one.
as far bounce I haven't had any but I have been feeling some funny vibration which could have been my differentials which are both being rebuilt as I write this.

the front strut -shocks run $244 (each) at rock auto, dealer wants $500+ each and $800 for a whole strut, if you opted to get just the shock you would need to still swap it out with a spring compressor or have a shop swap them. I just did both my front ones recently they were not leaking but one had the bottom rubber mount slide off to one side so it was sitting ****-eyed and there is no way to fix or repair that, I wasn't having any drivability issue but it didn't look right and would have eventually started flopping around.
I just had to my rear air shocks tested by the dealer and everything was fine my mileage is about the same as yours 98k

JTsYUKON · Jan 21, 2018

Doubeleive said:
if your able I would change the rack n pinion, these are not generally known to leak that I know of so you could probable save some money and go with a used one.
as far bounce I haven't had any but I have been feeling some funny vibration which could have been my differentials which are both being rebuilt as I write this.

the front strut -shocks run $244 (each) at rock auto, dealer wants $500+ each and $800 for a whole strut, if you opted to get just the shock you would need to still swap it out with a spring compressor or have a shop swap them. I just did both my front ones recently they were not leaking but one had the bottom rubber mount slide off to one side so it was sitting ****-eyed and there is no way to fix or repair that, I wasn't having any drivability issue but it didn't look right and would have eventually started flopping around.
I just had to my rear air shocks tested by the dealer and everything was fine my mileage is about the same as yours 98k

Wow! $800 is expensive. Think I’ll DIY

Doubeleive · Jan 21, 2018

JTsYUKON said:
Wow! $800 is expensive. Think I’ll DIY

ya $244 each for the crucial part is way better than $800

Bounce in Suspension, Maintenance Schedule

JTsYUKON

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swathdiver

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