New Owner with some questions - 2007 Tahoe LTZ

tsuintx · Oct 9, 2017

07Burb said:
For me, the lifter failure was just sudden with no signs leading up to it. To this point, i've not known anyone who's kept their AFM enabled and NOT eventually had an issue at around 135k-150k on the vehicle. It will happen, just a matter of time.

My wife drove her 07 Tahoe LTZ from 125K up to about 154K with AFM still enabled. No issues with oil consumption, no bucking/hesitation etc. when switching modes, nothing.

Disabled AFM first with Range and then with i1000 and the thing was still going strong when we sold it a couple of weeks ago. But yes, disabling the AFM is one of the first things anybody should do when buying one of these things, regardless of the miles.

AFM in my wife's new 2010 will be disabled shortly.

savagebasher · Oct 9, 2017

Thanks guys! I plan to go with Black Bear and do the full tune.. I am only at 113k miles so I am telling myself maybe I have a little time (was thinking spring).. maybe I am in denial.. ha! For now, I plan to at least seafoam and then do the 25k Amsoil oil. Not sure that even matters though really.

dreww2001 · Oct 10, 2017

savagebasher said:
Hey all, just picked up a really clean 2007 Tahoe LTZ with 113k miles. I had a 2002 Tahoe years ago and loved it. Here are some items I am addressing right away,, some of these appear to be rather common especially for the first year 07s

1. I hate the fake wood.. I plan to remove the pieces and have a buddy who owns them wrap them in brushed metallic. Like the Z71s have. I assume all the trim pieces pop out relatively easy?

2. Dash has a crack

3. Driver's side exterior door handle has came loose. Replace or Gorilla Glue?

4. There is an annoying interior noise coming from the rear.. not a rattle and not sure where it is coming from exactly.. any known areas to check?

5. Power running boards do not work. Stuck down. I saw they were unplugged and no fuse so I assume they had worked intermittently at one point. I plugged them in, added a fuse, used some WD40 and they kind of work. I got them to go back up with a little manual pushing. But the motors appear weak so for now I am removing fuse again with them up. Likely need new motors?

6. The driver power seat only works when no one is in the seat.. or I should clarify, with a light weight person.. like my 15 yr old daughter.. it works fine.. sensor of some sort?

7. Finally, there is a smell of what seems to be burnt wire or maybe coolant when exiting vehicle. Any known issues here? Not seeing any fluids on ground and it is not overheating or anything like that.

Sorry for writing a book here! Appreciate any replies or insight.

The rattle can be a plastic panel above the tail lights. Tap on it and see if it rattles or feels loose. Then it’s one of the clips on it. Noticed it’s common 3 of my friends Yukon’s and suburban/tahoe.

savagebasher · Oct 16, 2017

dreww2001 said:
The rattle can be a plastic panel above the tail lights. Tap on it and see if it rattles or feels loose. Then it’s one of the clips on it. Noticed it’s common 3 of my friends Yukon’s and suburban/tahoe.

Thanks. I will give that a shot.

Meccanoble · Oct 17, 2017

07Burb said:
For me, the lifter failure was just sudden with no signs leading up to it. To this point, i've not known anyone who's kept their AFM enabled and NOT eventually had an issue at around 135k-150k on the vehicle. It will happen, just a matter of time.

And yes, Black Bear is a can't lose proposition. They tuned my Burb and has been some of the best money I've spent thus far on it.

I got my AFM removed via tune at 147k miles. Sounds like I just made it lol

07Burb · Oct 17, 2017

Meccanoble said:
I got my AFM removed via tune at 147k miles. Sounds like I just made it lol

Based on my experience and what I've heard from others you were on borrowed time

Hopefully all is well going forward for you :waytogo:

savagebasher · Oct 17, 2017

So do you guys think given the 113k miles, I should do the following ASAP? I have no reason to believe there is any issue with any of these... Or overkill? just being proactive.

Plugs, wires, front/rear differential fluid, drain, filter, and fill trans, transfer case fluid, coolant, and any belts needed. Also need to address that faint smell if what appears to be burn wire or maybe coolant when exiting the vehicle.

07Burb · Oct 17, 2017

All of that seems reasonable to me unless you have proof that they've been done previously. I always assume all maintenance items are original to the vehicle unless proven otherwise. With things like plugs and wires, you can inspect those ahead of time to determine their condition prior to replacing them. So I'd take a close look at that before spending the time and money on them. Same can be said about the belts. Inspect them and proceed accordingly. You should be able to determine pretty quickly whether they need replaced or not. As far as all the fluids, go to town IMO. The only caveat to that is with the trans fluid. There are some who feel that if you've run 113k miles and never changed the trans fluid then it's best to not change it and let it ride. If you do decided to do a trans flush make sure you have the professionals handle it.

Just my $.02 cents

savagebasher · Oct 17, 2017

Ok cool.. below is what I was quoted at a local shop.. seems fair.. I am hoping plugs and wires are actually ok.. The truck idles and runs perfect. I also plan to use the 25k mile Amsoil Signature Series for engine (along with a seafoam treatment). Any thoughts on that? Or maybe Amsoil on other items? You guys are the best!

Spark Plugs and Ignition Wires- $365.00
Front & Rear Differential Fluid- $150.00 Additional if locking or synthetic.
Transmission Filter Service- $148.06 6 Quarts of Dexron VI
Transfer Case Drain & Refill- $65.00
Coolant Flush- $103.42
Belts we would need to inspect. Smell we would need to inspect.

adventurenali92 · Oct 17, 2017

$365 for spark plugs and wires seems a bit steep to me. But maybe that’s because of wires too. I had mine replaced just a couple thousand miles ago, shortly after I rolled over 100k and even though the shop owner is a good friend and a client of my business it still wasn’t go to cost anywhere near that. I think I pad like $40 or something close for the most expensive plugs. And labor was only like an hour. But they didn’t do wires so maybe that’s why your quote for those was higher.

New Owner with some questions - 2007 Tahoe LTZ

tsuintx

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savagebasher

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dreww2001

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savagebasher

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Meccanoble

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07Burb

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savagebasher

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07Burb

GM fan for life

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adventurenali92

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