Service Stability

Floep said:

The "teeth" are inside the hub! To verify you have this type of hub: there is a wire coming out of the hub.

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Indeed this is correct. When I replaced the hubs the sensors came in them.

The hubs are not too bad to replace as long as they are not rusted in. Just watch some YouTube videos with some tricks to removing them.

I installed these: http://a.co/0BCmRKe

They may not be some name brand expensive ones, but they seem to work just fine in my Yukon.

I stopped and had codes pulled at my local ORiley Auto Parts. C0455 C0283 U1301 and "class 2 comm low voltage". I will jack it up and try the hubs Friday after work...

#03-05-25-005: Service Stability Message and DTCs C0455 or C0550

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following concerns:
Technicians may find Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) C0455 and/or C0550 set.
Correction
Technicians are to update the VSES module with new software. The new software will be
available in TIS version 6.5, scheduled for release on June 15, 2003. All 2004 model year trucks
built prior to June 16, 2003 will also need the VSES module software update.

From my experience when the hub abs sensor went bad I lost acceleration completely. I could only idol around until I changed the sensor. I've had the "service stability' message since I purchased the vehicle and I have let it go since I have seen no issues related to it, but I was told it could be the steering position sensor, or the front shock level sensor. Not sure if that's what it's called. Again, since the vehicle has suffered no ill effects, and state inspection doesn't require it be cleared, I let it go.

rockola1971 said:

To check a hub, raise tire just enough to not touch the ground. Grab it at 12 and 6 oclock and rock inward and outward and you will feel play in the hub if it is bad. Grabbing it at 9 and 3 oclock checks the tie rod, idler and pitman arm for play.

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OK, I did this and up and down 12-6, zero play, feels very tight, like it should... but, side to side, 9-3, I have a lot of tie rod movement, even up and down and the wheel moves a LOT, this is a video, with the other tire on the ground... I am amazed at how much it moves, because it drives great... Now it does have good 20" tires so maybe thats why, but damn, I am surprised at how much it moves....

Looking at your video it appears you are on the drivers side tire. With all that play I am seeing it appears that your Pitman Arm (Connects relay rod to your steering gearbox) is SHOT! Id check the other side and would not be surprised at all that your Idler arm is ruined too. After awhile you will start to see your front tires start to cup and get irregular wear if it hasnt already. Your tie rods connect to the relay rod on both sides. There is a joint built into the tie rod on our setup that mimics what used to be the old inner tie rod. It is probably worn there too on your drivers side atleast by looking at your video. You always replace both sides at the same time. They are cheap enough.

Your relay rod being attached to the Pitman Arm (Drivers side) and the Idler Arm (passenger side) attaches the steering to these two anchor points to the chassis. This keeps the steering geometry in a arc that is from center (steering wheel position) to extreme left or right. Dont want your right tire turned one direction further than the left or vice versa. When steering components are worn this is essentially what is happening.

Check your stabilizer bushings too. They are cheap and easy to replace.

Yep, rockola1971 pitman arm and idler arm are both shot, LOTS of movement in them, yet everything else appears ok... From what I understand, you gotta drop, or at least take loose the steering gearbox to get a puller on it... I saw a video where a guy took a die grinder and a cutoff wheel, cut a slit in it, and hit it with a air chisel with a chisel bit, and 'cracked the arm, then it came off super easy... I am tempted to try this as I do have the tools, but, if I get in a mess, I can't drive it somewhere else if I can't finish.... maybe I better take it to an expert.... ?

Would this possibly be causing my Service Stability message, or is that a whole 'nuther issue?

Hey malmed. How did this work out? I'm in the same boat with blown pitman and idler joints. Mechanic wants 700 to change just those...thinking about doing it myself but nervous...also see lots of wear on other parts like UCA, Tie Rod ends...

I plan on doing mine myself, but have not done it yet, be at least 2 more weekends before I can... I was quoted $575 including the alignment, and I am tempted, but I just can't pay $400+ for something I can do in an afternoon.
From what I learned, easiest way is to cut thru the pitman arm with a cutoff wheel and air chisel:

So, I am gonna try it in a couple weeks... I noticed a upper control arm bushing that looks bad too, so I have a big job ahead

malmed said:

I plan on doing mine myself, but have not done it yet, be at least 2 more weekends before I can... I was quoted $575 including the alignment, and I am tempted, but I just can't pay $400+ for something I can do in an afternoon.
From what I learned, easiest way is to cut thru the pitman arm with a cutoff wheel and air chisel:

So, I am gonna try it in a couple weeks... I noticed a upper control arm bushing that looks bad too, so I have a big job ahead

Click to expand...

Hello,

I was just curious if you have replaced the parts and if it helped with your Service Stability message. I am getting really sick of seeing that message on my Yukon constantly.