What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Well GM says you need 5-qts for a pan drop and filter replacement. I put 4-qts in and barely hit the bottom of dipstick with engine warmed-up and ratcheting/pausing through all gear selections, like you said RedRocket (I've always practiced that method) So I dumped the 5th quart into it, deciding GM was close enough with their engineering. That's when the level read high like it always has, but not concerning as 4-qts barely hit the stick and a full 5 (as spec'd by GM) suddenly read high. I will test drive it if I don't have any more leaks & let you all know what I have on the dipstick with drivetrain hot. Depending how much leaked out, could be low again but I will perform due diligence verifying an accurate fill level.

I was wanting to flush the PS system by removing the return line and adding fresh fluid 'til it runs clear in the drain pan but after the trans' woes all weekend I'm considering a simple reservoir purge and fresh refill. I can't afford any more hiccups or mishaps. I've had my fill of maintenance for 1-weekend but the PS pump is obviously louder with rise in ambient temps & I know it's running on the orig fill. Oh I had a question here: have any of you other guys done the simpler PS resv' empty & refill, say 2 or 3 times & had good enough results?

I have done the more intensive PS flush on different vehicle several months ago and it was a major PIA, especially when air gets into the system & you hear the pump running dry for like 1 minute. I just read where a vac' puller is usually used for PS flush so there's less chance of pump running dry but my luck ran out a long time ago so I would rather use a more full-proof method...like pulling 90% old fluid and leaving the lines/hoses completely full. At least just this time.

I got the rest of the pen stripe off and put the driver side flares on. Swapped the rear appliqués to black.

Took it out to test the 4x4 and it did great! So far turning out to be a nice truck!




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MadDogDelpho said:

I think you should match your front bow tie with the caps, personally

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You mean to do the caps with the red outline like I have the front end already?

HiHoeSilver said:

Long post...

Oil change with Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic and Mobil 1 filter. Tire rotation. Emptied the catch can. Gross. So glad this is not in my intake.
View attachment 179155

Then a little plasti dip...
Okay, boys. Which one for the center caps? Or should there be white somewhere? I know they're not perfect, I was just testing my method.
View attachment 179156

Keep in mind my front end is this way (pardon the dirt, been raining like hell)...

Color matched this bowtie for the hitch.

Gonna put red and/or black dip, but not sure of the scheme yet. Ideas or suggestions, please.

The back hatch logo is like this...


Thanks for your thoughts here, guys.

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Yep match them so they are all the same. No cross contamination.

Yessir!

Fosscore said:

Yep match them so they are all the same. No cross contamination.

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I also agree.

The 4L60E takes 5 quarts if dropping the pan. I'm sure many service manuals state it, I used ALLDATA for my reference.

Usually cork or paper gaskets are a one-time use. They compress a certain amount when torqued so they seal properly. If you've tightened, loosened, tightened and tightened again, there may be a chance of a leak in your future. I would replace the gasket as cheap insurance.

The dipstick states to check fluid with engine idling and transmission fluid hot. Dex 6 is in operating range from 140°F to 240°F, so you don't need it to go that hot. It's pretty difficult to get your trans temp to 180°F just by idling. I checked mine at 120°F and called it good.

I wa

MINIz guy said:

The 4L60E takes 5 quarts if dropping the pan. I'm sure many service manuals state it, I used ALLDATA for my reference.

Usually cork or paper gaskets are a one-time use. They compress a certain amount when torqued so they seal properly. If you've tightened, loosened, tightened and tightened again, there may be a chance of a leak in your future. I would replace the gasket as cheap insurance.

The dipstick states to check fluid with engine idling and transmission fluid hot. Dex 6 is in operating range from 140°F to 240°F, so you don't need it to go that hot. It's pretty difficult to get your trans temp to 180°F just by idling. I checked mine at 120°F and called it good.

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Your trans temp isn't going to get hot at all by idling. I was going by my owner's manual, and it also says to get the trans to operating temp by driving 15 minutes, or if it's under 50 degrees out drive it in 3rd for 15 minutes after the engine comes to temp. I'm not sure how much difference there would be if you didn't get it warmed up all the way, but there is a reason to follow the steps and instructions or they wouldn't exist, so there must be SOME difference. There is also a cold method, but it's stated that's only to be used "as a reference".

Well like I said, I was going due diligence or whatever so I drove around for over an hour running errands just now. Apparently I lost quite a bit through that insane overnight drip bc my level was at the cold fill when I made my first stop. Added 1/2-qt @ Oreilly Auto and a few more ounces @ the next stop across town to get into the "hot level" crosshatch. Oh, this was all after I found the pan leaking AGAIN. Hit all the bolts 'til they stopped, since I'm sure as $hit not dropping the pan again just to waste $60-worth AC DELCO Dex6. That $7 gasket can kiss my ace. I will torque the bolt heads through the pan before I re-redo all of that mess for a 3rd time.
Anyway, saw no drips while driving around but I know it will leak again when everything cools off here in a couple hours. My plan is to not let it get cool anytime soon. Keep it hot until we get some kind of thermonuclear fusion at that gasket sandwich. FYI, this 1 is rubber; the 1st gasket I had break on me was cork.