I have a 2001 Yukon with woofer, tweeter in front doors, 2-ways in rear doors, small speakers in rear pillars, and 8" subwoofer left rear. The surround is gone from the rear door speakers and subwoofer. The subwoofer is 2 ohm and rear doors are 8 ohm. Anyone know what the factory amp ohm rating is in stock 2001 Yukon (not Bose system)? Can I safely put 4 ohm in the rear doors (I have a set already). Not realy looking to upgrade.... just want to get back to at least factory level of sound...... Thanks!
Amps, Ohms, Speakers
- Thread starter Kyairhog
- Start date
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usually any vehicle without a premium sound will be able to handle a 4 ohm speaker off the stock amp
pretty much and normal brand like alpine, infinity, kenwood, kicker any best buy brand 4 ohm speaker will work with the stock system
pretty much and normal brand like alpine, infinity, kenwood, kicker any best buy brand 4 ohm speaker will work with the stock system
Danzigman
Full Access Member
This thread goes along with a question I was going to ask. I have a two sets of 6 1/2 Polk Audio speakers that I originally had in another vehicle. Would it be worth the effort to replace the factor Bose speakers with them if I keep the factory amp?
I have no idea what the amp can handle. but consider that if the design had an 8ohm speaker stock, why would they design the amp to handle 4 ohm. A 4 ohm load will draw 2 times the current as an 8 ohm load, so if you try it and the amp isnt up for it, you will burn it up. I wouldn t recommend it. You can try it and it may work...or you may be spending $$ on a new amp.
"Normal" car audio is all 4ohm. But, lots of oem stuff like bose uses different impedences like 2 ohm on a sub to get more power out of it, or 8 ohm on a mid, where high current isnt really needed.
Jason, I would expect the Polks to sound better than the Bose, but you need the proper power. I would do some detailed research on the Bose amp before you wire it up. as stated above bose uses odd impedences. If you had an after market head unit and scrapped the bose system all together, that would be ideal.
Dont forget it doesnt take much to toast a cheap factory amp, and most arent going to have the margin for doubled current.
just my $0.02.
"Normal" car audio is all 4ohm. But, lots of oem stuff like bose uses different impedences like 2 ohm on a sub to get more power out of it, or 8 ohm on a mid, where high current isnt really needed.
Jason, I would expect the Polks to sound better than the Bose, but you need the proper power. I would do some detailed research on the Bose amp before you wire it up. as stated above bose uses odd impedences. If you had an after market head unit and scrapped the bose system all together, that would be ideal.
Dont forget it doesnt take much to toast a cheap factory amp, and most arent going to have the margin for doubled current.
just my $0.02.
Exactly
MPDano
Full Access Member
Great post. I would like to replace the subwoofer in the rear. Rear stock sub is 2 ohms. Can I replace it with a Dual Voice Coil Sub using 2 ohms on each coil? If so, how is it wired? Series or Parallel?
ScottyBoy
Full Access Member
I've had 4ohm speakers in all four of my doors for the last ten years now running off the factory amp. I never did replace the rear subwoofer yet though because the speaker I got was too big (too deep) to fit so I have not messed with it ever since. I have a 2001 non-bose by the way.
MPDano
Full Access Member
Same here. Non Bose set up. I did do some researching and it seems that using a 4ohm dvc sub is the way to go. I am leaning towards a MB Quart shallow to fit in the shallow stock box.
Denali2k8
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If you need a 2ohm load, get a DVC 4 Ohm, and wire it in parallel.
