6.2 or 6.0 swap

who has actually completed one of these on the nnbs tahoes. I love my 07 LTZ but it's a dog. Period. I'll be towing a trailer that weighs about 6k pounds.

Is the 6.2 or the 6.0 better from a cost vs performance standpoint?

Is the 6l80e from the Denali worth the hassle or keep the 4l60e?

I know the 6l80e is the better transmission but is it worth the cost and hassle to swap when my 4l60e is working fine? I could resell mine to offset costs?

All in all from guys who have completed the swaps what can I expect to spend? I'll be doing all the manchanic work myself and using a local shop to perform the programming etc.

She has about 202k on her now and I'm hoping for about another 25k (which is less than a year for me) before this happens but it will happen.

Thanks in advance.

Also I had the air ride and I'm looking to shit can that during this too.

If you are going to do it I would suggest getting the 5.3L and doing some mods to it. But if you are looking for a plug and chug application I would suggest finding the following:
Finding Chevy, GMC or Tahoe donor from the junk yard, yank the engine, tyranny and ECU. You might be able to find an aftermarket wiring harness that you can install your self and not deal with it from the donor.

I would suggest looking at the Pickup trucks as they are much easier to pull from and are slated for more hp / tq and should be a direct bolt in with few mods. GM is notorious for using the same parts / mounting brackets for many many years to save time, research and $$ which saves us a lot of hassle on future swaps!! Depending on the junk yard you might be looking at $2500 for both?? (just a guess) + Time / Labor and ECU challenges you might encounter.

If you are looking to get another 25k out of the vehicle though before you ditch it, I would look into re-gearing it to 3.73's (you prob have 3.08's in there now) and doing motor work - rebuild the bottom end, Cam, Intake, Longtube Headers, port polish headers etc (which might be cheaper and a lot easier than a full swap and you will have some extra $$ for your next ride)!


Below are the specs for the typical truck / yukon transmissions you might find and what the supporting input / outputs are.

GM 6-Speed 6L90 MYD Hydra-Matic Automatic Transmission

Type: Six speed RWD / AWD, electronically controlled automatic overdrive transmission with torque converter clutch. Clutch-to-clutch architecture, with integral Electro / Hydraulic Controls Module

Maximum engine power (gasoline, truck): 452 hp (337 kw)
Maximum engine power (diesel, truck): 300 hp (223 kw)
Maximum engine power (passenger car): 555 hp (414 kw)
Maximum engine torque (gasoline, truck): 531 lb-ft (720 Nm)
Maximum engine torque (diesel, truck): 520 lb-ft (705 Nm)
Maximum engine torque (passenger car): 550 lb-ft (746 Nm)
Maximum gearbox torque: 885 lb-ft (1200 Nm)
Gear Ratios
First: 4.03
Second: 2.36
Third: 1.53
Fourth: 1.15
Fifth: 0.85
Sixth: 0.67
Reverse: 3.06
Maximum shift speed: 6200 rpm



GM 6-Speed 6L80 MYC Hydra-Matic Automatic Transmission

Type: Six speed RWD / AWD, electronically controlled automatic overdrive transmission with torque converter clutch. Clutch-to-clutch architecture, with integral Electro / Hydraulic Controls Module

Maximum engine power: 469 bhp (349 kw)
Maximum engine torque: 439 lb-ft (595 Nm)
Maximum gearbox torque: 664 lb-ft (900 Nm)
Gear Ratios
First: 4.03
Second: 2.36
Third: 1.53
Fourth: 1.15
Fifth: 0.85
Sixth: 0.67
Reverse: 3.06

His LTZ is a 5.3 and is already geared to 3.73.

Are you going to rebuild whatever you put in? Or will it be a basic fix the leaks and drop her in?

If you are going to rebuild anyways, you can pull more than the difference out of your stock 5.3l for less than the cost of the 6.0l or the 6.2L. That is the direction I would be looking for a personal vehicle. A tune alone makes a difference that you can feel, add a cam and some exhaust work, and you will be smiling again and putting down more HP than the stock 6.0L.

As the owner of a 6.0 L76 Suburban, I can tell you that it's still kind of a dog. I am BB tuned with no other mods, and got whipped by a stock Denali. Granted, it was a NNBS Sierra Denali, but even with the extra weight I have no doubt a Yukon Denali could smoke me also. I'm sure my 3.42 gears don't help either.

However, if your Tahoe is still in good mechanical condition, I'd mod your 5.3 and keep it alive as soon as possible until you've saved up enough for a 15+ Yukon or Escalade with the 6.2. Your Tahoe has already proven reliable by giving over 200k miles, and I wouldn't doubt that she has 50k more in her, even with a few mods. Then when you decide you want more power, you can have a nicer interior and more modern technology to go along with it.

A 2015 Denali is years away. You're saying a modded 5.3 will give me 415 ft lbs and 380 hp for less than 2000 bucks?