Check transmission fluid level. Drain some Tcase fluid and look for glitter and check the magnet of the tranny and the Tcase for chunks. You will need to drop tranny pan to check the magnet.
I disagree. Its almost always either a bad/worn TPS, Its associated wire harness (broken wire), Bad TAC module wiring harness (broken wire), Bad TAC module, Bad/worn Foot pedal Pot or ground issue. In that order of most likely fault.
Chain stretch is very common on a high mileage transfer case. If not caught fast enough it results in the chain chewing up the inside of the case and come peaking out of a YUGE hole that it has made which destroys the case.
https://www.allstategear.com/NP246-Chains-s/2472.htm...
Have a look at your upper control arms. The eccentric cams specifically. See if there are signs of being moved which throws the angle of the tire where it meets the road out (caster/camber). Also a common result of a deep pothole is a bent tie rod. It will be obvious and it will be your inner...
There are 4 possible causes to the symptoms the OP listed.
First is a bad battery. Has a weak cell and cant put out the correct voltage under load.
Second is a bad alternator. And if the alternator is the cause it certainly can ruin a battery due to overcharging.
Third is silver migration in...
Thats the typical culprit...but that problem will produce a "reduced engine power" on the cluster and the engine RPM will default to around 1000rpm no matter what your throttle input is. If you were just having stalling problems then I would replace fuel filter AND the pump, esepcially when the...
OP wrote "“low engine power”...Did you mean reduced engine power? If so this is a clue and usually means you have the dreaded broken wires at the throttle body for the fly by wire. A wire breaks in that harness and you will get that reduced engine power along with just above idle max throttle...
When you squeezed the caliper pistons back in so you could install the thicker brake rotors, you may have ended up with a leaking piston seal and now have air in your brakes. Start checking for brake fluid on rotors and calipers.
Your master cylinder and booster are not the culprits here. Everytime you crack open a brake line connection you are letting air into the system. That is a no go. The brakes will have to be bled....but likely they will need bled anyway AFTER you replace the collapsed rubber brake hose that is...
TCCM is likely lost because of a dirty or faulty Tcase Position Sensor (commutator) that is built into the shift moder (but is replaceable). This is the most common fault with the symptom you have. Doesnt hurt to get the codes that are thrown before throwing parts at it though.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.