2003 yukon has a rebuilt 4l60e that previous owner put in. It had 40k on it when I bought it, and I've out on 55k on it since. It has always had a whine that owner said it had since replacement. It also has a bit of a slip to it. What fluid should I use? How much? What filter should I use? Should I put a quart of Lucas Fix All to it to aid in slip?
4L60E Fluid
- Thread starter RAWVORTEC
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Chubbs
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2017
- Posts
- 613
- Reaction score
- 344
when does it slip? Under any load or at high speed like 3rd gear and up?
What does the TF fluid look like? Red & transparent, still? Does it smell burned at all? Any evidence of coolant/antifreeze contamination?
Make sure it's not running low... It should be at the 'MAX' level with engine running & trans @ operating temp, equivalent of driving around the neighborhood several mins in 2nd gear
Any auto parts store will sell a kit that includes filter, seal and gasket. Brand name is irrelevant but OEM DELCO parts would be a good choice. They sometimes ask deep pan or shallow pan, you want deep pan filter or kit. Refill with 6 quart delco DEX-6 for the simple sump remove & replace, another 6-more quarts if you are going to flush out the old TF with the engine idling.
I would also refrain from using additives until you have the correct TF @ the correct level with some mileage. Open the old filter and take pics of anything suspicious: anything from silver flakes to bronze slivers and clutch material. Pics & documentation of everything on the bottom of the sump & attached to the magnets.
Since 4x4 check fill level on the transfer case and proper blue AutoTrac fluid also. Just pull the fill plug and if it's not coming out blue, stick something in there to verify color & how low it is. look on top of and around the tailshaft/rear housing for any cracks or leakage where it may have the pump rub problem.
According to the w/s manual there is a 2nd & 3rd gear whine from low & reverse roller clutch inner race & rpm dependent whine can be torque converter, oil pump, or the speed sensor contacting the rotor if sound is @ rear of the unit, i.e. Extension housing. All of which can be diagnosed: TC using the brake while trans in 'D', oil pump when coorelating line pressure w noise & then shimming the speed sensor away from the rotor.
What does the TF fluid look like? Red & transparent, still? Does it smell burned at all? Any evidence of coolant/antifreeze contamination?
Make sure it's not running low... It should be at the 'MAX' level with engine running & trans @ operating temp, equivalent of driving around the neighborhood several mins in 2nd gear
Any auto parts store will sell a kit that includes filter, seal and gasket. Brand name is irrelevant but OEM DELCO parts would be a good choice. They sometimes ask deep pan or shallow pan, you want deep pan filter or kit. Refill with 6 quart delco DEX-6 for the simple sump remove & replace, another 6-more quarts if you are going to flush out the old TF with the engine idling.
I would also refrain from using additives until you have the correct TF @ the correct level with some mileage. Open the old filter and take pics of anything suspicious: anything from silver flakes to bronze slivers and clutch material. Pics & documentation of everything on the bottom of the sump & attached to the magnets.
Since 4x4 check fill level on the transfer case and proper blue AutoTrac fluid also. Just pull the fill plug and if it's not coming out blue, stick something in there to verify color & how low it is. look on top of and around the tailshaft/rear housing for any cracks or leakage where it may have the pump rub problem.
According to the w/s manual there is a 2nd & 3rd gear whine from low & reverse roller clutch inner race & rpm dependent whine can be torque converter, oil pump, or the speed sensor contacting the rotor if sound is @ rear of the unit, i.e. Extension housing. All of which can be diagnosed: TC using the brake while trans in 'D', oil pump when coorelating line pressure w noise & then shimming the speed sensor away from the rotor.
Last edited:
It slips under any load. Fluid looks good and has good smell. It's above the full line at cold...I have never touched it. I'll check the transfer case as well. In your last paragraph, last sentence, what did you mean by "TC"?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Can a Tech2 or advanced scan tool see the slippage on those GMT800s like you can with the 900s?
Chubbs
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2017
- Posts
- 613
- Reaction score
- 344
Is that with the engine running?
@01ssreda4 i haven't burned up any trannies. At what point would you expect to see the signs?
Fluid should smell like shit and have contaminants visible when wiped onto white tissue, right? I mean if it's steadily slipping up & down the throttle... couple times driving around like that and the fluid would be roasted? Clutches wiped?
Last edited:
Chubbs
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2017
- Posts
- 613
- Reaction score
- 344
do you feel any slippage when you very first start driving, or does the symptom start up after a few mins?
And how many times has it done this? Are you still and have you been regularly using this vehicle with the identified symptoms?
And how many times has it done this? Are you still and have you been regularly using this vehicle with the identified symptoms?
inmypassatlife
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2017
- Posts
- 979
- Reaction score
- 671
Slip or delay in engagement? You could probably benefit from the Sonnax aluminum accumulators and a fluid/filter swap.
