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ScottyBoy

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Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester - - Amazon.com

Amazon.com: Fluke 323 True-RMS Clamp Meter: Home Improvement

My trucks previous owner was a complete butcher, he hacked up 90% of the wiring...these 2 voltage testers will make your life a lot easier to trouble shoot anything electrical

That Fluke meter only measures AC current, not DC current. It does however measure DC voltage. But if you are just measuring voltage, a basic multimeter can be found for a LOT less than that Fluke. I've found that the absolute BEST tool I have ever used for automotive electrical troubleshooting is the PowerProbe 3. I borrowed one from a friend years ago when I used to install car alarms and remote starters, and after using it I just HAD to get one. They are slightly expensive, especially if you get the Master kit with all the attachments like I did, but they are handy as all hell when doing auto electric work. You can probe just about any circuit and it not only tells you whether it's a positive or negative wire, but it also tells you the voltage on the screen. It also gives you the ability to shoot power or ground into the wire you are probing. That helps in situations with broken wires, you can power the circuit after the wire break and if it works, that helps you narrow down the area of the break. For instance, if you were to use this to power the dome light circuit at the A pillar, that at least tells you that the wiring from the A-pillar to the light us all good. But if you do the same test at the fuse and the light doesn't come on, that would tell you there's a problem between the fuse box and the A-pillar (assuming the fuse is good).

This is a link to the exact one that I have. The price had gone down a little bit since I got mine, but not by much.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-...rd_wg=eHhmh&psc=1&refRID=MDJH60FBYKTDPTFHRGWW
 
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AmberBeauTahoe

AmberBeauTahoe

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The 95-99 Tahoes, Yukons, and Burbans were notorious for the door switches going bad. It's basically a plastic button on the side of the dash. The driver's pin switch had two trigger wires on it if I remember right. I used to wanna pull my hair out installing alarms in a 95-99 with bad pin switches. Even one bad switch can cause everything to go haywire. I'm not saying that this is the cause of your issue, but I would sure as hell investigate it. They not only go bad, but they can come loose or get pushed back into the dash a bit and then they won't fully touch the door and that causes them to not work properly. Another thing, there is a round plastic "button" on each door panel where it touches the pin switch. If that falls off the door panel, then the dome light will not work. If you have a small hole in the door panel, then the button had fallen off.

I didn't realize those specific wires connected back there. Really don't know why it never crossed my mind. Reckon I got overwhelmed with everything else that I overlooked that possibility. I'm gunna go see what I can figure out if it doesn't rain today. Thanks!
 
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AmberBeauTahoe

AmberBeauTahoe

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That Fluke meter only measures AC current, not DC current. It does however measure DC voltage. But if you are just measuring voltage, a basic multimeter can be found for a LOT less than that Fluke. I've found that the absolute BEST tool I have ever used for automotive electrical troubleshooting is the PowerProbe 3. I borrowed one from a friend years ago when I used to install car alarms and remote starters, and after using it I just HAD to get one. They are slightly expensive, especially if you get the Master kit with all the attachments like I did, but they are handy as all hell when doing auto electric work. You can probe just about any circuit and it not only tells you whether it's a positive or negative wire, but it also tells you the voltage on the screen. It also gives you the ability to shoot power or ground into the wire you are probing. That helps in situations with broken wires, you can power the circuit after the wire break and if it works, that helps you narrow down the area of the break. For instance, if you were to use this to power the dome light circuit at the A pillar, that at least tells you that the wiring from the A-pillar to the light us all good. But if you do the same test at the fuse and the light doesn't come on, that would tell you there's a problem between the fuse box and the A-pillar (assuming the fuse is good).

This is a link to the exact one that I have. The price had gone down a little bit since I got mine, but not by much.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-...rd_wg=eHhmh&psc=1&refRID=MDJH60FBYKTDPTFHRGWW

And btw, that probe sounds freakin cool! I might have to break down and get one. :gr_grin:
 

mals

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I've found that the absolute BEST tool I have ever used for automotive electrical troubleshooting is the PowerProbe 3. I borrowed one from a friend years ago when I used to install car alarms and remote starters, and after using it I just HAD to get one. They are slightly expensive, especially if you get the Master kit with all the attachments like I did, but they are handy as all hell when doing auto electric work.

This is a link to the exact one that I have. The price had gone down a little bit since I got mine, but not by much.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-...rd_wg=eHhmh&psc=1&refRID=MDJH60FBYKTDPTFHRGWW

And btw, that probe sounds freakin cool! I might have to break down and get one. :gr_grin:

I picked up a lightly used Power Probe 3 Master Kit with the bulb adapters, lead set, and ECT2000 short and open finder for about half price on ebay. Like @ScottyBoy said, prices for new and used have come down since the Power Probe 4 came out, but since the Power Probe 3 does exactly what you would want it to do they still hold their value.
 

Cattivo

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That Fluke meter only measures AC current, not DC current. It does however measure DC voltage. But if you are just measuring voltage, a basic multimeter can be found for a LOT less than that Fluke. I've found that the absolute BEST tool I have ever used for automotive electrical troubleshooting is the PowerProbe 3. I borrowed one from a friend years ago when I used to install car alarms and remote starters, and after using it I just HAD to get one. They are slightly expensive, especially if you get the Master kit with all the attachments like I did, but they are handy as all hell when doing auto electric work. You can probe just about any circuit and it not only tells you whether it's a positive or negative wire, but it also tells you the voltage on the screen. It also gives you the ability to shoot power or ground into the wire you are probing. That helps in situations with broken wires, you can power the circuit after the wire break and if it works, that helps you narrow down the area of the break. For instance, if you were to use this to power the dome light circuit at the A pillar, that at least tells you that the wiring from the A-pillar to the light us all good. But if you do the same test at the fuse and the light doesn't come on, that would tell you there's a problem between the fuse box and the A-pillar (assuming the fuse is good).

This is a link to the exact one that I have. The price had gone down a little bit since I got mine, but not by much.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-...rd_wg=eHhmh&psc=1&refRID=MDJH60FBYKTDPTFHRGWW


I forgot I even had 1 of those lol...I bought it last year, works great but my fluke also measures dc unlike the link I provided...I find it easier to use my fluke since I don't need to pop the hood and hook up to 12v to get it to work...the probe did help me install the power seats in my Tahoe that came with non power seats

Here's the probe I have Power Probe III Circuit Tester, Red, Clam Shell PPRPP3CSRED Brand New! | eBay
 
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east302

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Here are the diagnostics from alldatadiy.com for a 1998 Tahoe with inoperable dome light. Hope it helps...

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