Power locks don't work

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Cattivo

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That part didnt have anything to do with YOUR post, But check out post #9. "How to troubleshoot power windows" youtube video. lol Didnt notice what #9 post was about did you? Be honest clown! hahaha So are you going to bust out the schematic and explain how the FOB works but the door switches dont and how to troubleshoot it OR do I have to teach class today? This isnt exactly an F/A-18C Hornet we are "working" on here.


"I might be cocky, some may even confuse with arrogant but I sure as hell am funny!"

My bad, I put the wrong link in to help the guy out in any way...i edited the video with door locks instead
 

rockola1971

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My bad, I put the wrong link in to help the guy out in any way...i edited the video with door locks instead
hahahaha no harm no foul. I was just clowning on you man. I was waiting for someone to say wait a minute her "we are troubleshooting power locks, right?"......and sadly i dont think anyone even noticed it was a power window vid.
 

rockola1971

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View attachment 74217 Anyways, back on topic. You need to check this 3amp fuse in the driver's side fuse panel. That's the fuse that powers the door lock switch.
That is the fuse that power the coils of the control relays(Once a lock/unlock switch it pressed inside the vehicle). The fuse that actually feeds power to the door lock motors via the lock/unlock relays is a 15A marked "Lock". I believe it is under the hood. If the 3A fuse is blown then the locks would not work via inside switches BUT the key FOB would work. If the 15A "Lock" fuse was blown then neither the FOB nor the Inside switches would work at all. So I second the 3A fuse being blown.

The question is why is the 3A fuse blown? They dont usually blow for no apparent reason. If it blows again then there is an electrical problem. Intermittent shorted wire or maybe a lock motor getting ready to die or it already has.(windings shorted to ground).
 

ScottyBoy

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That is the fuse that power the coils of the control relays(Once a lock/unlock switch it pressed inside the vehicle). The fuse that actually feeds power to the door lock motors via the lock/unlock relays is a 15A marked "Lock". I believe it is under the hood. If the 3A fuse is blown then the locks would not work via inside switches BUT the key FOB would work. If the 15A "Lock" fuse was blown then neither the FOB nor the Inside switches would work at all. So I second the 3A fuse being blown.

The question is why is the 3A fuse blown? They dont usually blow for no apparent reason. If it blows again then there is an electrical problem. Intermittent shorted wire or maybe a lock motor getting ready to die or it already has.(windings shorted to ground).


That fuse also feeds the power mirror switch. If there is so much as a short or even a weak mirror motor drawing too much current, that can blow the fuse. I've seen them blow simply because the switch was SO worn out that it basically had "metal powder" all over the switch contacts and that caused an intermittent short.
 
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Dennis W Horvath

Dennis W Horvath

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That fuse also feeds the power mirror switch. If there is so much as a short or even a weak mirror motor drawing too much current, that can blow the fuse. I've seen them blow simply because the switch was SO worn out that it basically had "metal powder" all over the switch contacts and that caused an intermittent short.

It was the 3amp fuse lmao. Thanks for all the help!

Scotty boy do you have a pic of the passenger switch for leds? Are the + and - in the same spot as driver side?
 

ScottyBoy

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It was the 3amp fuse lmao. Thanks for all the help!

Scotty boy do you have a pic of the passenger switch for leds? Are the + and - in the same spot as driver side?

Good to hear that you got it fixed.
And as far as the Pass door switch, I had a bunch of pictures on my old computer but it crashed. I don't have the pictures anymore. It's not in the same pins as the driver's side, but I can't remember off the top of my head exactly what pins they are. If you have a multimeter, it's not hard to trace them.
 
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Dennis W Horvath

Dennis W Horvath

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Right on! np thanks

Good to hear that you got it fixed.
And as far as the Pass door switch, I had a bunch of pictures on my old computer but it crashed. I don't have the pictures anymore. It's not in the same pins as the driver's side, but I can't remember off the top of my head exactly what pins they are. If you have a multimeter, it's not hard to trace them.
 

D-YukonXL

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good info on this post
I have a 2004 yukon xl with the whole automatic power lock feature. The locks activate and lock upon start up everytime, haven't even put it in gear yet. its irritating when im just opening the door to turn it on and walk away to let it warm up, i forget they locked and ill shut the door.. had to break in a few times.. Ive gone into service mode and did the dance; press lock button "x" amount of times until you hear "x" amount of chimes for the "no auto lock/ manual mode" but the locks still activate automatically.. as if nothing has changed..
 

ScottyBoy

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good info on this post
I have a 2004 yukon xl with the whole automatic power lock feature. The locks activate and lock upon start up everytime, haven't even put it in gear yet. its irritating when im just opening the door to turn it on and walk away to let it warm up, i forget they locked and ill shut the door.. had to break in a few times.. Ive gone into service mode and did the dance; press lock button "x" amount of times until you hear "x" amount of chimes for the "no auto lock/ manual mode" but the locks still activate automatically.. as if nothing has changed..

You have an aftermarket alarm or remote start if your locks are doing that. That's not a setting in the factory locks. The factory automatic locks will lock the doors when you get up to 20mph. You need to find out what kind of alarm or remote start you have and look up the programming settings to disable the auto lock with ignition feature.
 

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