***** on this one

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Miami-Dade

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I'm going to back to the shady ass dealer I got it from, and show him what I found. I'm going to plead for mercy, then negotiate, then if that doesn't work I'll print out 8 1/2 x 11 photos and spend a few weekends down there passing them out to his perspective car buyers, and take to social media. in the end, im sure I'm on my own, never know ow if you don't try though. .

Now that is something I would do.
 

04Huck

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Another thing to look for is (I believe) 706 cast number on the heads. Look at the passenger side toward the front, there should be a flat boss there. You could potentially have the castech heads that are prone to cracking. If you continued to drive it for a little while, keep an eye on the coolant. If it constantly drops, you probably have cracked heads

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2011SSVHOE

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well it looks like you kind got F#@ked by a *****, A ***** usually looks good on the outside but can be very nasty on the inside as your truck shows, I wouldn't be so quick to go for an overhaul , remember if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Unless it's knocking or rattling don't mess with it. just my usual 2cents
 
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Jon Chimpo

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well it looks like you kind got F#@ked by a *****, A ***** usually looks good on the outside but can be very nasty on the inside as your truck shows, I wouldn't be so quick to go for an overhaul , remember if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Unless it's knocking or rattling don't mess with it. just my usual 2cents


it did throw a knock sensor code. I forgot to add that to the mix.
 

iamdub

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it did throw a knock sensor code. I forgot to add that to the mix.

Knock sensors failing are a common issue with this generation of engine. The knock sensors are down in a hole (now I'm hearing Alice In Chains in my head) and water and/or oil finds it's way down in there and causes intermittent shorting and/or open circuits. Remove the intake manifold (which will be done if you remove the heads), and you'll see the two rubber seals with wires in the middle of them. Pop these off, clean out the holes, remove and clean or replace the knock sensors, then reinstall the plug/wire/seal things but with a good bead of high-temp sealant on the underside so that they stick to the valley cover and seal out any future fluids and debris. Common problem with a simple solution.
 
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Jon Chimpo

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Knock sensors failing are a common issue with this generation of engine. The knock sensors are down in a hole (now I'm hearing Alice In Chains in my head) and water and/or oil finds it's way down in there and causes intermittent shorting and/or open circuits. Remove the intake manifold (which will be done if you remove the heads), and you'll see the two rubber seals with wires in the middle of them. Pop these off, clean out the holes, remove and clean or replace the knock sensors, then reinstall the plug/wire/seal things but with a good bead of high-temp sealant on the underside so that they stick to the valley cover and seal out any future fluids and debris. Common problem with a simple solution.


I was originally going to do this, but thenot I saw the sludge. then I thought that they might be going off for a reason.

either way them, and the harness are getting got.

just talked to the local machine shop. 2200 out the door for a rebuilt engine just drop it off, and pick it up.
 

PG01

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I was originally going to do this, but thenot I saw the sludge. then I thought that they might be going off for a reason.

either way them, and the harness are getting got.

just talked to the local machine shop. 2200 out the door for a rebuilt engine just drop it off, and pick it up.

Whoa, I'd clean it before that, and even for that I'd buy my own and install it myself....save a g easy....
 

iamdub

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$2,200 parts and labor, all said and done isn't bad at all, but I agree with Pete. Why even spend the money if it's not necessary? I'd clean it first. Rebuilt doesn't necessarily mean it's good to go for 300,000 miles like it would be coming from the factory. Probably not even 100,000 miles. Not doubting the rebuilder's skills or capabilities, but it seems the failure rates for these engines due to factory defects are far less than failures due to rebuilder error. These things really are damned-near bulletproof. You could clean it and never touch the motor again. 130K miles honestly ain't shit on it. Now, if it's making rod or bearing noises in the bottom end or if the oil pressure is low, then that's a different story. BUT, the oil pressure may read low on the instrument panel but that could be because the screen and/or oil pressure sensor are gummed up.
 

Rocket Man

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Thanks for sharing this, I'll be following and hoping for a good outcome.
 

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