California Smog and IM monitors

99 2dr · May 29, 2015

Well its smog inspection time for me. California has changed the smog laws and now in order to pass smog inspection, you may only have one I/M system incomplete. I have two systems incomplete: Air and EGR. Is there any way that I can manually make one of the systems complete? I have driven 500 miles and neither of the systems have completed.
Kyle

SunlitComet · May 29, 2015

But did you follow the specific cycle for the driving cycle?

---------- Post added at 10:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:21 AM ----------

You can use this one.

99 2dr · May 29, 2015

Thank you,
I will try this after work today. Could there be any issue with the AIR and EGR because of my manual trans swap and black bear tune? I have passed smog just fine the last two times.

SunlitComet · May 29, 2015

There is a possibility that the internal tables are change a bit. Did black bear change the pcm programming and does the smog shop do the same? Does the smog computer read the vin and switch back to auto. The egr almost always never completes for us with mods. The air one tho may actually have an issue. Make sure it runs a bit when you start up and give the check valves and hoses a once over. There is also a electric solenoid on the side to test.

99 2dr · May 29, 2015

Black bear reflashed the ecm for a manual trans. They do scan the vin when they smog it, but the last two times it passed smog just fine. This time it failed because two of the monitors were incomplete. Evidently a month a go California changed the law only allowing you to have 1 monitor incomplete. When you mean air, does it include the air pump on the drivers side fender? Sometimes on start up it hums pretty loud for 15-20 sec until it turns off.

SunlitComet · May 29, 2015

yes air pump. disconnect pump hose and make sure it is moving air when it runs.

BTW, where is the smog info you are getting I can't find it on the CARB site?

---------- Post added at 05:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:46 PM ----------

Never mind. Found it.

---------- Post added at 05:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------

Effective May 4. Found it under the industrial section.

99 2dr · May 30, 2015

Well I ran it through the drive cycle this evening. No luck. Yea, Effective may 4 and I went down on the 10th for a smog test....... I will pull the hose and see if it is pushing any air. If it is moving air, where do I go from here?

SunlitComet · May 30, 2015

Make sure the air shut of valve and its controlling solenoid work as they should. They open when the pump is on.

99 2dr · May 30, 2015

I did a quick check this morning and the air pump is definitely working. Lots of suction in and lot of pressure out. How do I go about testing the Shut off valve and controlling solenoid?

SunlitComet · May 30, 2015

Disconnect the line from manifolds where it connects to the pump valve with cold engine. Look into valve as seen if it is closed. It should open when pump runs and you should feel lots of air thru it when it does not just from the pump output itself but thru that valve. If not sure it is closed pull it out of vehicle and blow thru it. Also make sure that no exhaust is backflowing out of the distribution lines off the manifolds when engine is running.

99 2dr · May 31, 2015

I pulled the valve out and verified that it is closed. I re installed the valve and started the engine with the hose that connects to the manifold check valves disconnected. Plenty of air flowed through the valve when the pump came on. I checked the hose that goes to the manifolds. There was a very small amount of air coming out of it from the exhaust. Should I change the two valves? What is my next step?
There is a beer waiting for you in Redding California if you ever make it up this way!

SunlitComet · May 31, 2015

In that case you you need to get a scanner then can see live data and monitor the o2's from cold start. When the pump is on they should show a lean mixture even tho the the engine pcm is actually running the injectors rich because of a cold engine. When the pump goes off you should be in closed loop at the same time and the sensors should be midrange in voltage. If not it is possible that the the sensors might be lagging a bit.

99 2dr · May 31, 2015

If that were the case, then new oxygen sensors would be in order? What kind of voltage numbers should I be looking for?

SunlitComet · May 31, 2015

When lean, near but not exactly zero voltage. When they see a rich mixture they get near 1 volt.

ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret) · Jun 1, 2015

holy crap california legislature have far to much time on there hands they just like to pass poimtless legislation every day lilke more emissions crap or banning plasti dip in gallons

99 2dr · Jun 1, 2015

It would be unwise to post on the internet the things that the people in rural towns would do to the people at CARB.

Ok, so this morning I fired it up dead cold.
The 02 sensor readings while the Air pump was running this morning were:
Bank one s1 .45 S2 .29
Bank Two s1 .19 S2 .36
Its pretty hard to get an accurate reading while the numbers are bouncing around. these are the estimated average reading.

SunlitComet · Jun 1, 2015

Theoretically if those average were indeed true of accurate sensors then B1S1 would seem to not be getting enough air from the pump. B2S1 seems about right. Reading also indicate that the converters are doing a good job o their own as well. If you were to swap B1 and B2's S1 and the "mid reading" followed it then the sensor may be goofed. Try something easy and check on the flows of the air pump as felt from the manifold check valves to see if they are even. Or did you already do that?

---------- Post added at 01:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:27 PM ----------

BTW, Have you checked the readiness monitors again lately to see if more locked in? Since the other was egr remove it and clean it out carefully and the same with th TB by spraying with a lot of cleaner and make sure the small hole in it is not plugged.

99 2dr · Jun 1, 2015

I checked the flow at the valve. I will check the flow at the check valves on the headers.
I re checked it and the voltage is much higher at bank 1 sensor 1 than bank 2 sensor 1. I happen to have a new set of 02 sensors that were waiting to be installed. I might stick a new one in bank 1 sensor 1 and see if I get lower readings.
All of my readiness monitors are good except the EGR and AIR still.

99 2dr · Jun 1, 2015

I Installed the new oxygen sensor in bank 1 position 1. The voltage readings Now match bank 2 sensor 1. I pulled the EGR valve, and replaced it with a new one. I had a buddy stop by with a snap on scan tool. First we preformed the drive cycle test. No luck, the air and EGR still were incomplete. We hooked up the snap on scanner. The scanner says that the Air test passed, but was still incomplete. The EGR still failed. So we manually activated the EGR valve with the scanner and it worked. From there, we drove with the scanner hooked up to live data stream. At no point under any circumstances did the EGR valve function while driving.
So where do we go from here? Could this be an issue with the BB tune? The Edelbrock TES headers, and the BB tune are my only engine and emission mods.

SunlitComet · Jun 2, 2015

egr hardly does work while driving. Mostly stays closed unless it is required to lower combustion temps based on data from pintle's position, TPs, ECT and MAP sensor. Does not take much for that valve to lean out and engine with the throttle closed so don't be leaving open other then for the quick test. While observing the map command the egr open to 30% percent engine running. If you see the MAP go higher and the egr will follow commanded movement with engine running and not then the egr system is fine. If the headers ar CARB E.O. then don't worry about it consult with BB about the adjustments to you pcm tables that might be affecting it. Did not know you were tuned. They may have disabled it possibly.

California Smog and IM monitors

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