How to replace your front disc brakes

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ravingmadman

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Loosen the lugs, then jack the wheel off the ground, then remove the tire. Use a long handled screw driver at this point to pry between the piston and the back of the inner brake pad to push the piston back into the caliper. You might want to monitor your brake fluid level, as it will probably overflow, but I usually just let it drip through to the ground, no harm no foul. Pushing the piston back is a real PITA to do later, and also helps get the inner pad loose at this point.

Loosen the two hex bolts on the inside of the caliper holding the caliper to the spindle, and remove the caliper. The inner pad should just about fall off- let it. To remove the outer pad, use a smaller screwdriver and pry it off. There is a piece of metal on the pad, with two bumps on it, and two detents on the caliper that the bumps fit into. You might have to use another screwdriver to help the bumps clear the detents, and slide the outer pad off.

Take the disc to your nearest Schuck's, and have them turned. It is $15 per disc, and gets rid of all pulsing, wobble, etc. Or you can buy new discs.

Make sure you apply a liberal coat of anti-squeak to the back of both brake pads. I just take my finger and smear it everywhere, but make sure you don't get any on the actual brake surface that pushes against the disc. The inner pad just snaps into place with a little bit of wiggling. The outer pad needs help to get the metal keeper with the bumps back into the detents. I usually tap it with the rubber handle of my screwdriver after it is in, to make sure it is really seated where it wants to be.

Put the disc back on. Lube the two hex bolts with lots of brake lube, and slide the caliper on (you'll find out now if you pushed your piston back in far enough at this point- beer is a good thing to have handy) and tighten the two hex bolts. Put the tire back on, hand-tighten the lugs, lower the wheel, tighten the lugs, and do the other side.

You'll need to pump the brakes a little to get the pistons back into position. When you first take off for a drive, your brakes will feel very soft at first, but they'll firm up after a couple hundred miles as the pads wear in. I usually do a couple laps in the parking lot, and do some really light braking (10-0 three or four times slowly), then harder braking (15-0 three or four times like I mean it), then finally a good 45-0 hard stop. Make sure if something lets go, or if a pad spalls/blows up, you've got a good hold on the wheel.

I also recommend keeping about a week's commuting between doing the front and rear brakes, so the front pads are good when you do the rear just in case. Brakes are important. Best of luck!!!
:drunk:
 

magnahoe

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I have always found it easiest to remove the cap under the hood and use a C clamp to compress the piston(s), but everyone has their own way. By the way do you have any pics with the 4" lift looking into going about the same hight.
 

99Yukon_Z71

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I have always found it easiest to remove the cap under the hood and use a C clamp to compress the piston(s), but everyone has their own way. By the way do you have any pics with the 4" lift looking into going about the same hight.

Agreed! Trying to pry it like mentioned above could scuff or damage the piston seal and piston assembly. Just leave the inboard pad on the piston and use a C-clamp to compress the piston all the way in. Its easier than you think!

-Fern
 

AtomicHoe094

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In my Icar book for brakes, to break in properly make 8 to 20 medium applications oif the brakes to slow the vehicle from 30 mph to 10 mph without stopping. allow pads to cool in between applications.
:)
 

haks310

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Yeah I know you can't see the torque rating...will post it later today.[/B]
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Cholomike

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Do you lube the slides inside where the hex bolts go into?

Do you actually lube the slides that hold the hex bolts to the caliper?
 

TigerEyz3

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Cholomike... Yes, lube is a good thing for slides.
 

gpracer1

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After pulling the caliper off, compress the piston with a c clamp. I wouldn't do it like that pic compressing everything bending the tabs on the old pads.
If you open th bleeder first, you will not push crap back into the master and you can do it with your hand.
The bolts are Allen head not hex head.
Put anti seize on the parts of the pads that touch the caliper rubbing points.

Pad break in can be done in 5 min with about 10 moderate stops.
 

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