How to replace your pitman arm

Didn't take pictures because it isn't too hard to explain. I can save you a lot of time with what I learned doing this last night. Shop quote: $350, and a couple hours. My total cost: $20, sore back, an evening under the truck cursing Todd from Burien. Hmmmmm.....

You need:
-Pickle forks; 1" and 1 3/4"
-BFH (I used a framing hammer with mediocre results)
-Metric socket set
-Standard socket set
-Needle nose pliers or a cotter pin puller hook thingy
-Really big crescent wrench; needs to handle 200 ft/lbs, on a ~2" nut (sockets won't fit)
-New Pitman arm ($20 at O'Reilly's)
-Grease gun & lithium grease
-Beer
-Possibly power steering fluid, now is a good time to check it.

Picture of tools (BYOB):


Steps:

1. Jack up the front end, far enough that the suspension is fully unsprung, and the tires can rotate freely. Put it on jack stands.
2. Remove the plastic splash guard from the front of the truck, exposing the idler arm on the left, the bottom of the enginein the center, and the steering gear on the right. I tried just letting the guard swivel, and spent toooo much time fighting it. Just remove it.
3. Turn the wheel (or just push the tires) all the way to the left, which will bring the small end of the pitman arm right to you. Look for the crown nut. Pull the cotter pin, and remove the crown nut.
4. Use the 1" pickle fork/hammer to separate the pitman arm from the steering linkage. It won't come all the way out yet.
5. TURN THE WHEELS TO STRAIGHT FORWARD
6. Using the uber crescent wrench, from the front of the truck, strain your back trying, and then eventually succeeding to get the pitman arm nut off of the bottom of the steering gear box. Beer helps numb the pain. There's a little plastic clip that will be right in your way to piss you off, and it is really difficult to get off. It connects to the front brake lines. Don't waste your time trying to get this thing off.
7. When you get the pitman arm nut off, use the big pickle fork/hammer to get it loose (it won't come all the way off at this point, no worries).
8. Remove the three big bolts holding the steering gear box to the frame. The bolts are available from inside the wheel well, go all the way through the frame, and screw into the steering gear box. Do not disconnect any of the power steering lines, or anything else. It isn't necessary.
9. Push the steering gearbox up, and inward, using the big pickle fork to help separate the pitman arm from the steering gear box. You might have to rotate the steering gear box clockwise as well to get the pitman arm completely off.
10. Pull the wheels all the way left again, and use the small pickle fork to separate the pitman arm all the way from the linkage. Stand up, look skyward, and hold the removed pitman arm over your head so the steering linkage gods can see your dead sacrifice.
11. Install the grease fitting on the new pitman arm if you need to, and fill it with grease. You might have a little foam ring, too, it goes on the small end. Slip the small end into the linkage, and put the crown nut on a couple of threads. Slip the big end onto the steering gear box, again, you may need to rotate the steering gear box to get it all together.
12. Bolt the steering gear box back into place. These bolts torque down to 100 ft/lbs, so put your back into it. Again.
13. Push the wheels to straight, and slip the pitman arm on. The splines will only match up one way, so fiddle with it until you get it right.
14. Put the lockwasher and pitman arm nut on, and just about kill yourself getting them good and tight. This torque spec says 186 ft/lbs. Just pull on it until your crescent wrench bends. You'll know you have it right when your knuckles go "clunk" and back goes "bang" with a sharp, burning pain shooting up your neck.
15. Pull the wheels all the way left, tighten up the crown nut, put a new cotter pin in it.
16. Since you're down there with a grease gun anyway, lube the upper and lower ball joints and the idler arm.
17. Drink more beer, call it a night.

Hope that helps someone!!!

then go get an alignment.. after ever time you screw around with suspension parts, you should get one.

Idk. I ' supposed to do this with my buddy. He said its insane to try it like taht so he wants to it by the book.


Raise vehicle and support.
remove nut from Pitman arm
use universal steering linkage puller
Remove power steering gear( from vehicle including disconnecting hoses)
use Pitman arm puller to remove arm from steering gear.
Inspect.

Installation reverse of normal.
Note: I've simplified some of the instructions

Would have had it done sooner but the cross-member is in the way. Even on a lift this thing is a pain to do.

GreyFox said:

Idk. I ' supposed to do this with my buddy. He said its insane to try it like taht so he wants to it by the book.


Raise vehicle and support.
remove nut from Pitman arm
use universal steering linkage puller
Remove power steering gear( from vehicle including disconnecting hoses)
use Pitman arm puller to remove arm from steering gear.
Inspect.

Installation reverse of normal.
Note: I've simplified some of the instructions

Would have had it done sooner but the cross-member is in the way. Even on a lift this thing is a pain to do.

Click to expand...

Did this sequence actually work? I don't have a gear puller, and I didn't want to screw with the flimsy power steering lines. How did you get the pitman arm out of the steering linkage opposite the gear box? I didn't have any clearance, though I tried. If you remove the gearbox, you still have to do everything I've mentioned, but you have to add removal of the power steering lines, removal of the steering linkage to the steering wheel, and you'll want to have a drip pan ready for the power steering fluid that will leak from the gearbox, yes?

ravingmadman said:

Did this sequence actually work? I don't have a gear puller, and I didn't want to screw with the flimsy power steering lines. How did you get the pitman arm out of the steering linkage opposite the gear box? I didn't have any clearance, though I tried. If you remove the gearbox, you still have to do everything I've mentioned, but you have to add removal of the power steering lines, removal of the steering linkage to the steering wheel, and you'll want to have a drip pan ready for the power steering fluid that will leak from the gearbox, yes?

Click to expand...

Idk haven't tried it yet. I will aasume you would have to prime the system all over again.
An Air hammer coming in from the side will get it loose and BFH will knock it out completely from the center link.
There is a plastic cover on the gearbox when you look under the hood the lines stick out of it. Does that come off easily or No not really?


UPdate: Talked to my buddy he's kinda of uneasy about doing it. He mentioned something about the clockspring (I know there is an evo steering sensor but does it have a clock spring?) becoming damage from hammering upon it the airbag possibly deploying.Due to hammering upon the Steering box. Note $300+ for a local guy to do it but I can't tie up my car for the amount of time he'd take.

GreyFox said:

Idk haven't tried it yet. I will aasume you would have to prime the system all over again.
An Air hammer coming in from the side will get it loose and BFH will knock it out completely from the center link.
There is a plastic cover on the gearbox when you look under the hood the lines stick out of it. Does that come off easily or No not really?


UPdate: Talked to my buddy he's kinda of uneasy about doing it. He mentioned something about the clockspring (I know there is an evo steering sensor but does it have a clock spring?) becoming damage from hammering upon it the airbag possibly deploying.Due to hammering upon the Steering box. Note $300+ for a local guy to do it but I can't tie up my car for the amount of time he'd take.

Click to expand...

the clock spring is in your steering wheel i dont see why it would have anything to do with changing your pitman arms

No springs involved with changing pitman or idler arms.

IIRC, you don't have to remove the steering gear box either. However, I've got 2wd rather than 4wd which is probably a little easier than a 4wd. Not to hard to get to the idler arm other than the frame on the 2wd.

Removal of the power steering box isnt too bad. (Im currently on my third trying to get my steering to work correctly) Its 4 bolts on the side through the frame. Remove the nut from the pitman arm on the steering linkage side. Then slide the cover on the box upwards, towards the steering wheel and remove the bolt holding the steering shaft to the box. Then remove the two lines and take the box out.

The issue with the clock spring and removing the power steering box is if while your box is out you spin the steering wheel. Good insurance against this is before you take the truck apart buckle your seatbelt through the steering wheel so it wont turn.

Also if you do pull the box it would be a good time to check your PS lines and the rag joint on your steering shaft.

I agree with the post above. Respectfully, I don't agree with the air hammer comments though. That scares me a little. You don't need an air hammer.

Keep wrenching!!!!!

Im telling you , doing this yourself is not very rewarding. it took me 4 hours to get 2 nuts off my truck.

using the haynes manual also licks poo hole cause they do not tell you the steering box trick

now that i have read this i can go finish up