Water pump?

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Johnny Racer

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So... I come out of the office yesterday and see what looks to be a small trail of coolant running from dead center under my 99 Yuk and down the parking sthal. Fresh coolant might I add. Drive home, temp creeps to 210, heat fades in and out, but eventually the temp drops as long as I am moving. Typical. Now I have had t-stats stick so I know this things gotta be low on coolant. Stop at the Autozone and throw about a half gallon at it, fill the resevoir and drive to work today. Temp gauge fine, heat great, no idea about a leak yet. In looking at it yesterday, the crossmember, sway bar, and skid plate are moist for sure.

Thant being said, I am certain this water pump is leaking through the weep hole. How much of a ***** is this to change? Is there anything you would recommend changing, aside from the belt along with this repair? Any good tutorials/how to's anywhere (tried searching here and found nothing really)? Recommendation on OEM vs aftermarket parts?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mike
 

rushr

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I just changed the one on my 97 last weekend. It really isn't all that bad of a job. I just followed the steps in my Haynes manual. As far as other things to replace, if it hasn't been done I would do the T-Stat too and of course check all the hoses. I can make a write up on it and send it to you if you would like.
 
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Johnny Racer

Johnny Racer

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Yes the t-stat was done last year when the coolant nipple on the intake took off on me. Glad to hear its not that much of a ***** and if you could, it certainly would be appreciated. I even tried google and no luck there. Just trying to see if this is something really want to dick with of pay someone to do.
 

rushr

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I can do that later this evening and post it up for you. It books out at a 2 hr job and I was quoted 120 in labor. I've had it replaced twice in our Dodge Nitro, the first time was $300 total and the second time it was going to be around $360 total.

The cost for me on the Yukon was $60 for the waterpump, 13 for the T-Stat, and a few hours of my time.
 
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SeriousSide97

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ill be dammed if mine isnt leaking too. cool thing is I replaced it like 3 years ago from autozone and their covered with a LLW. Freebie comin up and looks like Im busy tonight.
 

gpracer1

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What year is it?

My 93 TBI was one of the easiest waterpumps I had ever done....did 2 in 180,000 miles. Having electric fans made it real easy, as in 15 minutes in and out.
Haven't looked at my 99 vortec pump, but I would guess it's the same or really close as far as labor.....4 bolts and the lower hose clamp.
 
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Johnny Racer

Johnny Racer

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Its a 99. Hoping its not that much of pain in the junk. Not thinking so and it appears that stock OEM part are only like $60 total plus gaskets and then of course since I'm in there... might as well throw a belt on it.
 

Done Deal DR

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It really shouldn't be bad.

I replaced mine like a year back in my '92 TBI. Pretty much just consisted of taking the fan off, taking off the belt, loosening the hose connection, unbolting the water pump, bolting the new one on, reconnecting the hose, fill up with new coolant mixture and put a belt on for good measure. I had already just replaced the tstat.
 

retorq

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The fan on the Vortec pumps don't bolts on the same, comparing them to the older setups is like comparing tuning a carb engine to a TBI engine.
 

ezdaar

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trick with the new style big nut fan.

Big as crescent wrench, and 3 foot cheater pipe on its handle..
Have buddy hold it with tension on the fan nut, and you pop the pipe with a big ass dead blow hammer or sledge.
It doesn't take hulk hits, just wam it once or twice and it pops loose.

you can do it by yourself if you position the wrench and cheater pipe at a angle, and COVER your fender with cardboard and some THICK!!!! towls. or you will certainly dent it.

I have the specialty fan tools but prefer popping it loose this way, its far easier.
 

rushr

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I just used a large wrench for the nut and clamped a pair of vice grips on the pulley behind it so it would brace on the pulley above it. Then took a small mallet and gave the wrench a decent hit and it popped right loose. Similar process as you describe ezdaar, but it doesn't sound as destructive...lol
 
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rushr

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In a nutshell, here is the process:


Disconnect negative on battery
Drain Coolant
Remove 7-8 bolts for upper fan shroud
remove fan from water pump by a process described above
remove four bolts holding the pulley on the water pump
remove belt
remove hoses from water pump
remove four bolts attaching the water pump to block
dry the area well and be sure and remove all old gasket material off block


Installation is just reverse and use some RTV for the water pump on both sides of the gasket.

Pretty sure that is about it.
I can get the torque values when I get home.
 

rushr

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Here are the torque specs...

Fan-to-pulley nuts - 18 Ft/Lbs
Thermostat cover bolts - 20 Ft/Lbs
Water pump mounting bolts - 30 Ft/Lbs
 

SeriousSide97

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yea fellas Im doing my water pump, thermostat and possibly a new belt today. Ive got all new hoses so their good. My belt is a gatorback from 2 years ago but Ill double check if its good. Gonna throw a water pump from autozone on there again. Ill post results later this after noon
 
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Johnny Racer

Johnny Racer

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Here are the torque specs...

Fan-to-pulley nuts - 18 Ft/Lbs
Thermostat cover bolts - 20 Ft/Lbs
Water pump mounting bolts - 30 Ft/Lbs



Thanks for all the info and help. Plan on doing mine on Saturday and even better, have free access to a clutch fan removal tool. LOL I'll let everyone know how it went after the weekend. Have a great Turkey Day everyone and thanks again.
 
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Johnny Racer

Johnny Racer

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New pump, fan clutch, belt, tensioner, and idler pulley all a success. Not hard to do at all, was actually only about an hour job... jus a tick over. Best way to get that fan off... belt removal tool and an air chisel. Worked GREAT!
 

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