How to change coolant and trans fluid on 04 yukon Vortec?

McFatterson · Jun 9, 2011

I do not have money to take to a mechanic so please do not say just take to a mechanic.

Searched and surprisingly could not find a write-up or other info on how to change the coolant on my 04 Yukon. I have 2 gallons of orange Dexcool coolant. Will this be enough along with 2 gallons of distilled water? Is there a bolt or something from the top that I have to unscrew to let the coolant drain?

I searched for a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator but could find nothing... I have an air compressor for one of those coolant exchanger things.... Is it easier to go this route? If so where do I rent one?

I also have to change the trans fluid.... it is way overfilled for some reason... I have no idea how long its been like this. Is there any harm from overfilling the trans?

How do I change the trans fluid? What type of fluid and filter work best(I see a lot of different opinions on this) I'm worried about it slipping over time... I hear this is a major issue on these trucks.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: Just called Autozone and they do not rent coolant exchangers. The guy suggested removing the lower radiator hose on the passenger side and let it drain that way with the radiator cap open then filling with distilled water, let it run for a bit, drain that and replace with the 50/50. Any opinions on this?

Also any info on where to take old coolant???
Thx

taylorjm · Jun 9, 2011

Here's what I did, for what it's worth, and it worked quite well.

Remove bottom hose at the radiator.
Remove hose from the surge tank.
Remove upper hose at radiator.

Then I took some pvc pipe fitting and found one that fit snug into that upper radiator hose and reduced it down to my air compressor fitting. Then I put about 15psi of air into that upper radiator hose. Everything in the block came gushing out the surge hose. Then I reconnected the bottom hose and the surge tank hose. Filled up the surge tank with 50/50 dexcool to the hot mark, then poured some into the upper radiator hose to fill up the block, and reconnected the upper hose.

Never had to add any more, didn't have to worry about an empty block, didn't have to purge anything, everything went just great! It took just over 12 qts (3 gal) of 50/50 which is the capacity of my system.

P.S. The part I didn't like about just taking off the lower hose is that you don't empty the block out because the thermostat is closed. You just drain the radiator which doesn't hold that much anyway.

taylorjm · Jun 9, 2011

Here is what I used to blow out the fluid in the block from the upper radiator hose.

NorCalBryan · Jun 9, 2011

taylorjm said:
Here is what I used to blow out the fluid in the block from the upper radiator hose.

That's awesome!

ScottyBoy · Jun 9, 2011

Ok, that pretty much explains how to do the coolant. Now here is how you flush ALL the transmission fluid out of the lines and torque converter. I used Dexron 6, and it took about 12-13 quarts.
http://www.truckmodcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4699

taylorjm · Jun 9, 2011

That's the same way i changed my trans fluid. (I didn't change the filter). The only thing I would add is that I couldn't get the fitting for that trans cooler line out of the radiator, and I was afraid of trying to turn it too hard and breaking something.

So, what I did was...I pulled that little plastic ring on the upper trans cooler line down, then took a small screwdriver and pulled the clip out that holds the trans cooler line in. (make a note how it goes back in). Then I took some rubber hose (sorry, can't remember what size) but it fit right over the nut/fitting in the radiator, and clamped it down. It worked great! Didn't need the new fitting I bought and didn't have to disconnect anything from the radiator except that quick connect trans cooler line. Went very easy after that.

McFatterson · Jun 9, 2011

Cool PVC device... I'll have to put one together and flush it that way.

I found out you're supposed to check the trans fluid level with the engine running so that is why it looked so high on the dipstick.

I called Autozone again and the guy suggested changing the filter and using Dexron 3 along with Lucas No Slip tranny additive (my Yukon has ~80k). The entire change including the tranny pan gasket comes out to $50. I might just go with the Dexron 6 though since it seems to be popular on this site....

Is changing the tranny filter @80k a good idea or could I get away with just a fluid change? Is changing the filter pretty straight forward? I know you have to drop the pan which sounds messy.

Thanks for the help guys.

ScottyBoy · Jun 9, 2011

If you have never changed the filter before, I STRONGLY suggest that you drop the pan and change it.
And although Dexron 3 will actually work, the Dexron 6 is a far better fluid. But then again, its much more expensive too. I noticed smoother shifting after switching to the 6. And my transmission temp dropped on average about 8-10 degrees.

ezdaar · Jun 9, 2011

When I used the fulsh fill method linked above...

the lil plastic piece your worried about breaking, simply lube it up and work the nut back and forth a few times... the oring will slipon the tube thus no need to pop that clip and loose it or acidently cut the oring..

Before dropping pan, use that method to drain the pan. its a hell of alot cleaner when you dont get 4 quarts of hot ass tranny fluid in your face.

Dont use anti slip additive, it only lasts a few hundred miles..
Install a vetter servo and better OD servo.. they last forever and will stop your slipping, on older trannys.

06xl · Jun 9, 2011

taylorjm said:
Here is what I used to blow out the fluid in the block from the upper radiator hose.

Sounds like your in business make a few thousand paint it black name it gmc easy flush an off to autozone your product goes an I get 8% profit for the business idea

taylorjm · Jun 9, 2011

The part I was worried about breaking was the actual radiator. I couldn't get the fitting to come out of the radiator without really having to put a lot of pressure on it, and I was worried about damaging the radiator. That's why I disconnected the quick connect and clamped a hose to the nut instead.

McFatterson · Jun 10, 2011

ezdaar said:
Dont use anti slip additive, it only lasts a few hundred miles..
Install a vetter servo and better OD servo.. they last forever and will stop your slipping, on older trannys.

What is a vetter servo and OD servo? Cheap and easy to install?

Looks like I'll be picking up Dexron 6 fluid and trans filter/gasket in the next few days. Comes out to ~$110 at Autozone.

Autozone only sells 1 type of auto trans filter for these trucks... Is there any benefit to going with a more expensive one somewhere else or will the Autozone one be okay?

Will be piecing together a PVC coolant flusher and changing the coolant tonight...

I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Thx

ScottyBoy · Jun 11, 2011

From what I have seen, the Dexron 3 looks like it is being phased out. Yo can only find it in a store brand now. Castrol and Pennzoil don't make it anymore. They are making the Dexron 6 and pushing that for all Dexron 3 vehicles since it is compatible. Walmart now makes a Dexron 6 (Supertech) which is GM approved for use in all Dexron 6 vehicles. A lot of guys on GMfullsize said they have used that since its so much cheaper than the Castrol.

taylorjm · Jun 11, 2011

06xl said:
Sounds like your in business make a few thousand paint it black name it gmc easy flush an off to autozone your product goes an I get 8% profit for the business idea

Man, I didn't think it was that great of an idea! 8% would be a deal! lol

I talked to a guy at autozone before about some kind of coolant evacuator that you plugged into the surge tank, it pulled a vacuum and sucked everything out, then you put a hose into a bucket of fresh coolant and released the vacuum, and the new coolant was sucked back in. I asked him how it was possible, of course he didn't know, but he said it was enough vacuum that the hoses would collapse in and get 99% of the coolant.

What I didn't understand, is that the block/radiator are all solid, and I told him that you can't just put it under a vacuum and suck fluid out of it. I told him that would be like wrapping my lips around a beer bottle, and sucking, and expecting the beer to just be sucked up into my mouth. It can't happen. Of course he said it works....So how can that work????

ScottyBoy · Jun 11, 2011

taylorjm said:
Man, I didn't think it was that great of an idea! 8% would be a deal! lol

I talked to a guy at autozone before about some kind of coolant evacuator that you plugged into the surge tank, it pulled a vacuum and sucked everything out, then you put a hose into a bucket of fresh coolant and released the vacuum, and the new coolant was sucked back in. I asked him how it was possible, of course he didn't know, but he said it was enough vacuum that the hoses would collapse in and get 99% of the coolant.

What I didn't understand, is that the block/radiator are all solid, and I told him that you can't just put it under a vacuum and suck fluid out of it. I told him that would be like wrapping my lips around a beer bottle, and sucking, and expecting the beer to just be sucked up into my mouth. It can't happen. Of course he said it works....So how can that work????

I can see it sucking a good portion of the coolant out but not 100% of it. The only way I could see it getting any more than 50% of it out was if it was a heavy duty electric vacuum pump like you use on AC systems. Even then, I would be scared to put that much vaccum on my cooling system and risk collapsing the radiatior. Its only designed to operate under 15-20lbs of pressure, and a heavy duty vacuum pump will easily exceed that.

McFatterson · Jun 12, 2011

Any word on the tranny filter? Might try out the Dexron 6 WalMart brand depending on how much cheaper it is.

I thought I had the pieces necessary to make one of those coolant flush things but couldn't get it to work... Went to Home Depot and picked some new pieces up.... hopefully I can get it to work this time.

Another issue is the power steering seems to be sticking slightly and making noise occasionally when turning at low speeds... it sounds almost like the rack is dry. I looked inside the reservoir (it's not low) and the fluid looks pretty dark brown. Maybe time for a PS fluid change as well? How often does it need to be changed? Any recommendations on what to use?

Edit: STILL doesn't work.... My PVC is too big and I cannot find anything that fits. Taylorjm where did you get that black hose piece? I can't find anything like it. What is the OD?

Thx

McFatterson · Jun 19, 2011

Bump... still unable to flush this damn coolant.... didn't think it would be this tough... can't get anything put together well enough to hold pressure. Not sure where that guy got his parts at but I can't find anything like it at any home depot, lowes or autoparts shop.

Also tried to get into dropping the transmission pan but it looks a bit tougher than everyone was making it out to be.

Any info on how to change the transmission filter? I haven't been able to find any write ups on this for a 2004 Yukon 5.3L.

Thanks in advance.

taylorjm · Jun 19, 2011

Hey, sorry I didn't see your post earlier. The black piece is for 1-1/4" hose. I found it at a Menard's store, which is the same as a home depot. If you can't find it there then look at a swimming pool supply store because pool hose is also 1-1/4". You could also look for one with the sump pump fittings because the discharge hose is also 1-1/4". Then I just pieced together the rest to get to a air hose fitting. You don't need a real tight seal because I only put in a max of 20 psi and it all came gushing out.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.poolsupplies.com/cgi-bin...e=pdgcommtemplates/plain/multiitem_parts.html

---------- Post added at 10:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ----------

As far as the PS fluid, everyone told me to just get a turkey baster and suck out as much as you can, and refill with new stuff. Then drive it for awhile, then suck and replace. Do this for a total of 3 times. I haven't done it yet, but I'm going to soon.

Here's the guide I found on changing trans fluid and filter. Not for sure it applies to your vehicle so double check that part.

http://gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179148

edgil1985 · Jul 31, 2013

What would you guys recommend for flushing with if I plan on going to Full Synthetic ATF?

YukonCarl · Jul 2, 2016

McFatterson said:
I do not have money to take to a mechanic so please do not say just take to a mechanic.

Searched and surprisingly could not find a write-up or other info on how to change the coolant on my 04 Yukon. I have 2 gallons of orange Dexcool coolant. Will this be enough along with 2 gallons of distilled water? Is there a bolt or something from the top that I have to unscrew to let the coolant drain?

I searched for a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator but could find nothing... I have an air compressor for one of those coolant exchanger things.... Is it easier to go this route? If so where do I rent one?

I also have to change the trans fluid.... it is way overfilled for some reason... I have no idea how long its been like this. Is there any harm from overfilling the trans?

How do I change the trans fluid? What type of fluid and filter work best(I see a lot of different opinions on this) I'm worried about it slipping over time... I hear this is a major issue on these trucks.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: Just called Autozone and they do not rent coolant exchangers. The guy suggested removing the lower radiator hose on the passenger side and let it drain that way with the radiator cap open then filling with distilled water, let it run for a bit, drain that and replace with the 50/50. Any opinions on this?

Also any info on where to take old coolant???
Thx

I just discovered I need to drain the radiator by removing the lower hose. How did u manage to do this. I have a 1997 yukon

How to change coolant and trans fluid on 04 yukon Vortec?

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