What is this leak at the Tranny/driveshaft...

[dec322]

besides being a leak at the tranny/driveshaft?

I changed my fuel filter today and I while I was under the truck I saw that the rubber thing at the end of the tranny is wet. You can also see fluid on the bottom of the truck that has been slung while the driveshaft spins.

I have some pictures. What is the deal and what is the fix?

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h283/dec322/transmissionleak001.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h283/dec322/transmissionleak003.jpg

[road1will]

looks like the output shaft seal is toast

[dec322]

looks like the output shaft seal is toast

I have a slight vibration around 40-50 mph. Do you think this has anything to do with it?

What are we talking about when replacing an output shaft?

Thanks.

[Max]

awd? then it's the tcase output shaft seal. my output shaft has some slight amount of play so I'm getting a new case along with a front diff rebuild before my warranty goes up, common issues with these trucks. I'd take it to a dealer or shop that you trust and have them check it out, hopefully it's just a $20 seal and an hour of labor. does your front end whine at certain speeds on the highway?

[dec322]

awd? then it's the tcase output shaft seal. my output shaft has some slight amount of play so I'm getting a new case along with a front diff rebuild before my warranty goes up, common issues with these trucks. I'd take it to a dealer or shop that you trust and have them check it out, hopefully it's just a $20 seal and an hour of labor. does your front end whine at certain speeds on the highway?

It is rwd.

[Max]

then it will be the trans output seal, possibly easier though I haven't pulled apart a 4L65e trans all the other ones I've split weren't too bad.

[Fyrcaptain]

Max how many miles?

[dec322]

I just talked to a mechanic that I like to use and he told me it will be one hour labor ($70) plus the price of the part (??). I'm thinking it a total of $150-$200.

The guy will also check my u-joints to make sure they are ok.

My $10 fuel filter job just went up by 20x. :mad:

---------- Post added at 03:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 PM ----------

Max, how many miles?

97k

[Sepiroth]

Honestly man, that doesnt look that bad. Granted, its supposed to be dry. IMHO, I would spray some carb cleaner and clean the fluid and debris around the seal, body and tail portion of trans.

Check your ATF
And drive it for a week. If there is no significant amount of buildup there, drive it for another week.

What youre looking for is to see exactly how bad the seal is, is it weeping, or leaking.

[dec322]

Honestly man, that doesnt look that bad. Granted, its supposed to be dry. IMHO, I would spray some carb cleaner and clean the fluid and debris around the seal, body and tail portion of trans.

Check your ATF
And drive it for a week. If there is no significant amount of buildup there, drive it for another week.

What youre looking for is to see exactly how bad the seal is, is it weeping, or leaking.

Yeah, it isn't bad at all. I'm just going to get it fixed. The price isn't huge...granted I would rather spend it on muffler or intake....so I'll just get it taken care of.

I'm also interested in getting the U-Joints looked at so this will be a good opportunity.

I'm close to making the call to do it myself but this isn't my personal/tinker-with vehicle. This is the family bus so if the project takes longer than expected I'm in trouble.

[Volant1]

That looks way better than mine, I just had a front axle boot rip now there is grease everywhere:emotions122:

[Sepiroth]

You can tackle that seal yourself. I mean I use a big flathead screwdriver to prop the seal out. A little lube to aid in installation, and lightly tap it in place with small hammer.

The U-joints too are another DIY project. Lube is your friend and so might be heat. Dont be afraid to tackle these jobs by yourself.