Brake Upgrade. Whats best?

[96ProCompTahoe]

Need to beef up the brakes on the Hoe. not looking to throw a ton of money into swaps but what are you all running?

I've got a used rear disc kit in the garage from Stillen. not sure if its really going to be any different that the drums (other than looking better)

big Q is the front end, is it worth the $1000 kits for bigger rotors? or better to just put on higher quality rotors and bigger calipers with the stock hardware?

Also was a topic on TF before it died. the Hydro-boost conversion worth the money?

[bowtiefreak]

bigger is better in brakes....if you have the money. I am running stock size cross drilled and slotted with Hawk pads and the ABS unhooked. Stops way better than stock

[JennaBear]

I have R1 Premium rotors and Hawks pads with stainless brake lines. Very happy with the results!

[blueflamed03]

Max has said good stuff about Power Slots and Hawk pads. Agree, stainless brake lines help as well.

[destroyer1362]

bigger is better in brakes....if you have the money. I am running stock size cross drilled and slotted with Hawk pads and the ABS unhooked. Stops way better than stock

How does unhooking the abs help? Just curious bc brakes are on my to do list as well.

[96ProCompTahoe]

my abs has been disfunctional since the re gear. already has stainless lines on the front, rear will go on with the disc swap.

been debating the slotted rotors and of course better pads.

anyone running rear disc? need to know if i need a proportioning valve to make them work correctly.

[bowtiefreak]

Stainless lines also, forgot that one...it was a must with the lift so I always forget.

Unhooking the ABS:

First, the system is not setup for a 35" tire and that leads to the following problem.
When you press the pedal hard the ABS computer senses the amount of pressure and determines that tires lockup is imminent and begins to back the pressure off the system causing really crappy stopping. Simply pulled the fuse and went out for a test drive...works like a charm now. Firmer brake pedal when stopping. ABS being unplugged simpley reverts back to standard braking

[96ProCompTahoe]

wait wait wait. i heard you couldn't pull the fuse on it cause it'll kick in and work worse than it already does on 35's.

I'll have to try that though. those short stops are a PITA right now.
so the parts list so far:
-Power Slots front (and rear if i can figure out what those Stillen disc's are actually off of)
-Hawk Pads (front and rear)
-Put on the rear disc kit
-rear stainless line.

still need to find out on the proportioning valve and the hydro boost conversion.

[bowtiefreak]

pulling the big fuse under the hood. Completely disables the ABS. Trust me, it will lock them up now with no problem.

[bass1775]

Brakes have always been a problem on my tahoe. I drive aggressively. Is there a big brake conversion for the 98's? Everything I've seen is for the 2k's and newer. I'm running slotted and crossed drilled rotors up front w ceramic pads and stainless lines. They stop better than stock but, could be better. I still have the drum brakes on the rear.

[blueflamed03]

Brakes have always been a problem on my tahoe. I drive aggressively. Is there a big brake conversion for the 98's? Everything I've seen is for the 2k's and newer. I'm running slotted and crossed drilled rotors up front w ceramic pads and stainless lines. They stop better than stock but, could be better. I still have the drum brakes on the rear.

look at Baer?

[bowtiefreak]

keep in mind that a big brake conversion may also require a bigger wheel to clear everything. Another option is drive slower?

[96ProCompTahoe]

most of the big brake kits i've seen require 18's to clear the new rotors.

---------- Post added at 08:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------

hey does the ABS light stay on when you pull the underhood fuse? i'm sick of seeing that damn thing.

[bowtiefreak]

yup, light is still there. I am sick of it too.

[haks310]

LoL just pull the dash and remove the bulb for it.

[bowtiefreak]

some day I will. And in the process gut the whole ABS system out.

[96ProCompTahoe]

dang, was hoping it would get rid of the light.

when i finally have time and money to buy/work on the hoe i'll get it tuned and it'll fix the ABS as well. no more light

that or tear it all out and go to the hydroboost conversion. haha

[bowtiefreak]

ABS on a lifted truck = fail

[jmildoc]

just go to Orielly and they will have anything that you need.... I know the manager at the one in Martinsville and can get you a discount if you want to come up this way.....

[efeeloc]

i paid $900 BUCKS AND CHANGE for ssbc calipers $220 for baer slotted drilled rotors saw a nice improvement

[AtomicHoe094]

whered you get that deal at?

[foreverfalcon40]

LOL ATOMIC

I sound like a broken record SS Brake lines from EBAY $50 seller was in Canada. I subitted him an offer and he accepted it.

[roadrageror]

well i joined the SS brake line club today..ordered mine from ebay,out of toronto canada..finally no duty on somthing!! guess ill see how they work in a few weeks :)

[AtomicHoe094]

i want SS :( lol i want alot of things, but time will heal that.. and i just replaced all my lines :(

[roadrageror]

50 bucks cheap cheap! LoL.

[JennaBear]

I put some on my Tahoe when I upgraded my brakes, the all around braking ability is phenomenal!

[AtomicHoe094]

it really improves that much?? :hmm: i didnt think it was a "drastic" change.. but maybe maybe one day.. hehe:think:

[JennaBear]

Well I changed out my rotors, pads and lines all at once (hence the upgrade).

[AtomicHoe094]

oo i gotcha.. Yea im sure that all helped out a lot! do you have bigger calipers or anything on your truck? im worried with my supercharger and "factory" brakes and such it wouldnt be too wise..

[JennaBear]

Stock calipers, I was debating on a BAER Eradispeed +1 since I have larger wheels/tires but figured I would give this set up a chance. Hawk Pads, R1 Concepts Premium Rotors, SS brake lines.

[AtomicHoe094]

:hmm: what size rims do you have? i have pretty much stock rims 16inch, so idk if getting huge calipers and rear disc is really worth it.. any thought for me? Ive been "building" up a motor and should carry high high 400s low 500 hp. whats your advice to me here? lol

[JennaBear]

20" wheels 33" tires

[AtomicHoe094]

thats it.. no advice boooo!!!! :(

[JennaBear]

Well honestly what motor are you planning on running to get those numbers? I don't think you need to worry so much about your drums and calipers especially since the rear doesn't matter all too much. The front end is where the majority of your braking will occur.

[haks310]

Yeah, and running 16" wheels and do not think you will be able to run larger rotors. If you are planning on keeping those wheels then upgrading to quality rotors and pads along with SS lines would be good. There is also the HydroBoost install.

[roadrageror]

Got my SS brake lines today hope to get them in this weekend !!

[mickbozard]

bowtiefreak, you got a pic of which fuse to pull? or is it pretty straight forward on the fuse box legend which one it is ? thx mick

[haks310]

For the ABS? Straight foward, panel has a diagram and everything.

[mickbozard]

Hey BowTieFreak i pulled the fuse, woooohoooo ! you right it does work HA ! THANKS bigtime, cya mick

[GoodmanOX]

Jenna: How are you liking that set up? Did you get the premium slotted and drilled or just the premium slotted? I have a set of hawk hps pads, r1 premium slotted rotors, and goodridge ss lines sitting in my living room waiting for spring break to put them on my tahoe.

[JennaBear]

I have the premium slotted and drilled, with the SS lines, and Hawk HPS pads. Fantastic set up, stops on a dime!

[sparg93]

Goodman.

The Goodridge lines, were they an OEM fit on your rig? The correct length with OEM style adapters to the caliper?

I'm thinking of going the goodridge route for my '99 Tahoe, but wanted to hear some feedback before i purchased.

[yukonaetahoe]

hey fellas, hope some of you are still around. Im starting a piggy bank for whole brake system manufacture upgrade. everything stock size but just better brands.
Ive seen you guys speak on rotors and pads, but not much on caliper types......
ive seen some $989 upgrade kits on Summit, but i am not looking to go all out like that lol

any advice on calipers only (i like red =) )? 2 door 4wd. fronts only. appreciate any info. thanks again fellas!

[96ProCompTahoe]

i just put factory replacement calipers on the hoe with slotted brembo rotors and some decent napa pads, throwing some hawk pads on it the next go around. SS Lines all around, put new shoes and hardware on the rear end and flushed the lines. i can lock them up on dry pavement they grab so well. and im not rolling on stock rubber :)

HUGE improvement from when i picked it up.

[yukonaetahoe]

any ss lines? do the brand matter?

[bowtiefreak]

I run power slots, hawk pads and SS lines. Works well to slow this thing

[96ProCompTahoe]

couldn't tell ya what brand they were. came from 4wheelparts, fronts went on with the lift and the rear was an extra they had for their trail rigs

[yukonaetahoe]

couldn't tell ya what brand they were. came from 4wheelparts, fronts went on with the lift and the rear was an extra they had for their trail rigs

4wheelparts, u have said enough lol, theres one by my house ill just pick some up from there. THANKS!

[YenkoZL1]

96PROCOMP - The answer to your question about needing a proportioning valve with rear disc brakes on your Tahoe is....

ABS Hooked up - NO Proportioning valve needed

ABS disconnected or completely removed - YES Proportioning valve will be needed.

The ABS setup for the rear brakes on these Tahoe measures how fast the drive shaft is spinning to know how much braking is needed. Or something along those lines.

TSMMFG.com has a great setup for rear disc conversions. And the best price out there too. You can definately find calipers cheaper than theres but either way the price is hard to beat.

My rear calipers are from a 1979 Cadillac Elderado. I went with these to keep my E-brake function. $180 on ebay rebuilt with the e-brake return spring.

You can get these calipers from a local auto parts dealer but they wont have the e-brake spring needed, and the spring is hard to find. TSMMFG wants so much b/c they come loaded and ready to go. You might get lucky on ebay though.

[SunlitComet]

:bs: ABS will not determine the braking force division from master cylinder to wheels during regular braking. It is there to maintain control under adverse road surface conditions during emergency braking applications. A proportioning valve is still need for proper front/rear application force.

[ChiTahoe]

I know this is a bit old but I just read this so I thought I'd chime in. You can disable the ABS and not have the light on the dash =)
Under the hood just disconnect the ABS module, spray the connectors with dielectic grease and enjoy no ABS and no dash light. Had it on the 98 sierra for years like that and did the same on my 97 hoe.
SS brake lines, here I come!

[Smasal]

How do I know if I have ABS? I had it on my old explorer(POS) and I know what it feels like when it kicks in. But do all 98's have it? Because my truck has 1 month old pads and rotors and sometimes I feel like I'm still working to stop it.


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

You have abs trust me it has been around for a bit. You have what is known as 4WAL meaning 4 Wheel Anti-lock.

This is it here with the blue plastic connector retention clips on it.
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSmnM0NKarS1TAlgRLgccVStzRO1-IANXh6SZWnMj2DMg5T1ItVIQ

[Smasal]

So disconnect which wires and hit em with what? And can this ever be undone? I am not concerned with it being undone as I intend to drive this truck until the wheels fall off. But just for kicks what's the procedure?


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

It would be preferred if you did not do that.

[Smasal]

So disconnect what from where? Or leave it alone?


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

leave it alone and let it do its job. When it needs to.

[Smasal]

Backing out of my driveway. Loose gravel and wet in the mornings. It engages.


Ch@d

[Smasal]

Driveway is about 200 ft. Slow grade leaving away from house


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

And that is bad having it work on your driveway or something? Help me understand what you are feeling about what is going on.

[Smasal]

Feel like it's over sensitive. I just changed pads and rotors. Maybe I have air in the lines or need to change to SS? New fluid? I have a steep driveway. It should engage. Just bugs me I guess. Wanna make sure it is working properly.


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

There was an ABS issue around in a tsb. Perhaps it may be the issue instead:


Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34861870/34861872/56243981) Mounting Surface) Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)
1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10
1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)
1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)
1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy
1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34861870/34861872/56243981) and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34861870/34861872/56243981) mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34861870/34861872/56243981) harness connectors. 3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector. 4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's. 5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34857029/34857030/101367133). 6. Remove the wheel speed sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34861870/34861872/56243981) and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service. 7. Clean the wheel speed sensor (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV27727698%7EC23455%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746574/42420426/42420487/42420488/34853741/34861870/34861872/56243981) mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion. 8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor. 9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218). 10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037). 11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub. 12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel. 13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.

---------- Post added at 08:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

Keep your lines unless damaged or swelling, make sure your fluid is clean and free of air bubbles. Find some flat asphalt ground, floor it to about 80 and slam the brakes as if your life depended on it. Tell me how it came out.

[Smasal]

I will do this and repost this evening. And see what happens. Especially before the new tires.


Ch@d

[atis]

Ok, brake question in the spirit of the thread.... semi-metalic or ceramic pads for braking improvement?? (I am getting cross drilled rotors at the same time)

[AtomicHoe094]

ceramics dont carry brake dust, but they say you lose a little stopping power. Semis get your rims dirty..

[SunlitComet]

Ok, brake question in the spirit of the thread.... semi-metalic or ceramic pads for braking improvement?? (I am getting cross drilled rotors at the same time)
Stick with powerslot cryo's slotted and hawk HP Superduty pads. No drilled. After that a hydra-boost unit. It is the most effective upgrade route.

[SuperchargedSS]

best thing right now is the Wilwood 16" 6-Piston STEAL right now... $1999 shipped for the ENTIRE setup w/ lines and all. Cannot beat that!!! Regularly $3K

[atis]

Thanks for the info. I dont need a massive increase in stopping power, she is stock on stock tires/rims and is my DD for work and soccer.

[96ProCompTahoe]

i tossed a set of ceramics to go back to the semi's, couldn't come close to locking them up or stoping short with the set of ceramics on it (may have just been that set of pads, couldn't tell you what brand they were) i've locked them up on dry pavement with the semi's. (just have to clean the wheels often. hoping the teflons aren't affected as bad from the dust)

if you are rocking a pretty stock truck there is no reason to disable the ABS. it won't help you stop faster, just keep the wheels from locking up so you can maintain control of the truck - no sliding.

[atis]

There are two of us in the thread asking break questions.... the other guy is asking about the ABS. I joined in on the " brake upgrade" side looking at what where the bolt on upgrades for a stock Hoe to improve the stopping distance.

So crossed drilled rotors and semi-metalic pads. Got it.

[SunlitComet]

There are two of us in the thread asking break questions.... the other guy is asking about the ABS. I joined in on the " brake upgrade" side looking at what where the bolt on upgrades for a stock Hoe to improve the stopping distance.

So crossed drilled rotors and semi-metalic pads. Got it.

If you say so.

[Smasal]

So I got up to 60. Going down hill and abs kicked in like expected. Stopped pretty well actually. These obs tahoes are big pieces of metal on wheels. Forget how cumbersome they really are. I bet if I had new tires already it would have stopped much sooner.


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

Well it does not seem apparent you having issues with the ABS just needs to get some better rubber. I am sure once you get some good tires and even some new brake parts in time you will be much happier. And you will probably handle the driveway better.

[Smasal]

Thanks for pointing out that I'm "sweating" my driveway haha. Wait until it snows this year. I'll post a pic ;-)


Ch@d

[SunlitComet]

Screw the pictures we want traction tests on HD video.:favorites37:

[tstarks1]

So should I get big brake upgrade if I have 24's on my truck? I haven't purchased them yet but they are planned. Don't want to crash the truck.

[the big blue bus]

what are a good set up better than stock rotors? i could use some new ones mine pulse some when i stop and have grooves in em. i could turn em but id rather upgrade

[SunlitComet]

Get yourself a set of these and you will be stopped in no time at all. The might just fit under 24" rims.

http://www.biggles-software.com/software/757_tech/landing_gear/images/brake_unit.jpg