Bose amp bypass?

[matt14]

Is there anyone out there that has bypassed the factory bose amp to amplify the stock door speakers with a different amp? I just got done doing my install on my 06yukon and want to amplify the stock bose door speakers with my amp( dont have the funds right now to replace) Was wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram of the connecter at the amp. I can just "loop" the wires and bypass the amp right? By the way, love the site!

[05Yukon]

Is there anyone out there that has bypassed the factory bose amp to amplify the stock door speakers with a different amp? I just got done doing my install on my 06yukon and want to amplify the stock bose door speakers with my amp( dont have the funds right now to replace) Was wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram of the connecter at the amp. I can just "loop" the wires and bypass the amp right? By the way, love the site!

You can find wiring diagrams online. You will need an adapter to keep the door chimes and onstar if you have them. It can be done pretty easily. I dont know about using the factory speakers with another amp they have a different ohm rating than most speakers.

[matt14]

The load rating on these is 2 ohm. I already checked. The amp that i have is a rockford power 1000 5 channel amp. It has a seperate sub channel that puts out 930rms at 1ohm and the other channels is about 110rms at 4 ohm. The amp is 1 ohm stable. I know that i will blow the speakers eventually, just need to save some cash first to add some componets.

[Shaggy]

The load rating on these is 2 ohm. I already checked. The amp that i have is a rockford power 1000 5 channel amp. It has a seperate sub channel that puts out 930rms at 1ohm and the other channels is about 110rms at 4 ohm. The amp is 1 ohm stable. I know that i will blow the speakers eventually, just need to save some cash first to add some componets.

Is there something wrong with the amp, or you just want to ramp it up?

[05Yukon]

I thought the factory speakers were like 3 ohms or something weird. You can run it that way for a while it probably wont sound the best.

[fatnlowtahoe504]

the door speakers will prob sound better with the bose amps until you get aftermarket speakers

[Timmy]

i agree... leave the bose amp, bro.

[Shaggy]

i agree... leave the bose amp, bro.

Is that what he wants to do, is get rid of the boss amp?

[Timmy]

Is that what he wants to do, is get rid of the boss amp?

i understood it as such. i think it would be more worth it for you to save up and replace your speakers first. check ebay. i know i saw some power series 6 1/2 fosgates for $55

[Shaggy]

i understood it as such. i think it would be more worth it for you to save up and replace your speakers first. check ebay. i know i saw some power series 6 1/2 fosgates for $55

Why do it a all until you get both? Not sure why he wants to change anything until he has everything.

[Timmy]

Why do it a all until you get both? Not sure why he wants to change anything until he has everything.

i agree, but he said he already has an amp.

:read:

[Timmy]

and it appears that the amp that he has is a BEAST!

[JKmotorsports]

The best way would be to replace the speakers first. The BOSE amp redirects the proper frequency range to the corresponding speakers, i.e. high frequencies to the tweets, midrange to the mid drivers, etc. In other words, a built in x-over. Unless you add a passive x-over to the factory components, you'll end up damaging the tweets, even at low to moderate volume.
You can add an in-line cap to the tweets and run the mid-driver and tweeter parallel. At the amp there are seperate wires for the front mids, tweeters, rear speakers, and of course the sub.

Front left mid: tan+, grey-
Front right mid: lt green+, dark green-
Rear left: brown+, yellow-
Rear right: dark blue+, light blue-

I don't remember the tweeter wire colors off-hand, but this will get you started in case you decide to do it.

[matt14]

Just got done with the install today at work. The sound is not the greatest, but doesnt sound horrible. The sub hits HARD! I ended up cutting the wires at the connecter for the amp and spliced in the speaker wires. I'll replace the door speakers in a couple of months with some type R componets and coaxials. They state about 110rms at 4ohm, so this should go perfect with the amp that i have.

[matt14]

Was wondering if anyone knows how long the "break-in" period is for a subwoofer. I'm running a 15" kicker L7.

[Timmy]

i think it is advised 30 days.

[fatnlowtahoe504]

i think it is advised 30 days.
yea if your in it everyday, all depends on how much and how loud you play it, im sure if you play it everyday cranked up it wont take long at all

[Timmy]

i think they honestly say don't go past 1/2 way for 7 days.

[matt14]

Called kicker and they said to break it in for 20-40 hours and to make sure the gain is set correctly.

[fatnlowtahoe504]

bingo!

[Timmy]

bingo!

see, that wasn't so hard.

[blueflamed03]

ppfftt....run it for a couple hours to let glue settle, cool...and power up. I never break them in for 20 hours.

[Timmy]

ppfftt....run it for a couple hours to let glue settle, cool...and power up. I never break them in for 20 hours.

i don't think i have either.

[blueflamed03]

plug, play moderate, boom, ready to jam....

[JKmotorsports]

Breaking in subs is good practice. The spiders are usually stiff when new. If you put a lot of power to the sub, the added mechanical resistance will heat the coils more than normal, possibly causing premature failure. Once the spider breaks in and loosens up, the entire assembly can move more freely and the coil(s) stay cooler.

[blueflamed03]

my thoughts, and had good conversations with Gary Biggs and Mark Eldridge about this, is the glue and spider, do have to relax somewhat. Glue smell will be promt during break in, but to get the best 'sound' out of the driver, sure, break them in to loosen it up to get max parameters.
But on the flip side, I've seen many SPL guys load a woofer in out of the box, hammer the you know what out of it and it's fine. Some are actually louder when the suspension is stiff.
I say run it for a day moderately, then your ok. And they were correct, safely set gains.
The way his particular L7, it has a t-cut top plate, so pretty much the coil stays in the gap longerfor better cooling, and it has a vented top plate, along with side vents.

But either way, start moderate, then you should be good to go by Friday :)

[hornsfan44]

The best way would be to replace the speakers first. The BOSE amp redirects the proper frequency range to the corresponding speakers, i.e. high frequencies to the tweets, midrange to the mid drivers, etc. In other words, a built in x-over. Unless you add a passive x-over to the factory components, you'll end up damaging the tweets, even at low to moderate volume.
You can add an in-line cap to the tweets and run the mid-driver and tweeter parallel. At the amp there are seperate wires for the front mids, tweeters, rear speakers, and of course the sub.

Front left mid: tan+, grey-
Front right mid: lt green+, dark green-
Rear left: brown+, yellow-
Rear right: dark blue+, light blue-

I don't remember the tweeter wire colors off-hand, but this will get you started in case you decide to do it.

So..... when I get my components like I had posted about earlier, Do I need to splice the mid to exisiting wiring and the tweet also to the factory wiring in the pillar...... Or do I utilize the crossover that comes with the components????

[sdgd711]

So..... when I get my components like I had posted about earlier, Do I need to splice the mid to exisiting wiring and the tweet also to the factory wiring in the pillar...... Or do I utilize the crossover that comes with the components????

The tweeters are actually paralleled off the front speaker with a cap mounted to the tweeter, they are not crossed over inside the amp. You will need to use the crossover that comes with the component set you get.

[hornsfan44]

Awesome. Thanks for the tip