View Full Version : Cheap sway bar links for rear 5" drop
Front JK jeep wrangler end links look like they'll fit w/o issue. I'll let you guys know how they work since I have about a dozen of these things leftover from lifting jeeps. I also chopped 1 1/2" out of the stock rear links in case I have to weld em up but you can't remove the bushings and I'm concerned they will melt when welded. Pics to come I'll try getting them on tonight
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/mcconditioner1/Denali/IMG_0344.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/mcconditioner1/Denali/IMG_0345.jpg
Modded
11-05-2009, 02:24 PM
Good thing my DJM kit came with them.
Had it didn't I would have to get some for you as that rear bar angle after a drop is unacceptable.
Mine handles great but I'd like to have another inch off the length. They didn't fit when I dropped it 4" initially but I think they'll work well after the free travel mod and height it's at now. We'll see in about an hour.
fatnlowtahoe504
11-05-2009, 02:46 PM
good thinking! i need shorter ones as well, i took my rear sway off this weekend and as i was driving back to school on the interstate i had way too much swaying at some points, not to mention my back tires rub now that i took it off and i did the free travel mod, i took it off cus im in the process of putting bags in, but i wonder if it would sway less when i have the bags in?
NathanJax
11-05-2009, 03:54 PM
Thought you were looking for these for me?:crazy:
Since you found them, when you shipping them?
BTW, I have a guy who said he'd cut my factory ones and wasn't worried about the bushings melting at all... No idea if they would or not though...
Calling u now fucker...
--edit--
hurry back from lunch...
--edit--
:Handshake:
trick28
11-05-2009, 04:09 PM
just take it easy when your welding around the bushings. Id take i first then hit it, let it cool down. Im sure you know this already but i figured id just mention it.
Im clueless when it comes to lowering these things since i just lowered mine 2/3 years back then i bagged it. But im still interested in what you find out.
Didn't get a chance to put them on as the alignment rack was tied up all day. I hate racking my truck on the other lifts because its so low I have to square up the arms, then extend, then put the feet on, and finally put them on the frame after I roll the truck forward. I'll get pics tomorrow when I put em on might be able to get the uca bushings on too if my buddy can align the damn thing. I'm also considering a refinance on my truck since my credit score went way up...boost is coming bitches :burnout:
Modded
11-05-2009, 08:52 PM
Hell yeah get Boost, screw airbags for now, if not in general!
BTW you need your old screen name back....
I'll change it once it's true again. I feel like a poser with a turbo mustang in pieces and no blower on the truck. Back and forth this whole week about bagging or not I'm leaning toward making it fast and doing some sleeve bags with an engine driven compressor once I have sufficient funds to dedicate toward doing it right. I'd love to get it down another inch or so right now but don't see that happening as I'd have to buy shocks and all kinds of other crap. Figure if I notch the frame I may as well bag the damn thing. Dammit I hate these decisions :emotions122:
Modded
11-05-2009, 08:59 PM
Can't you pull just that 1" more with a notch w/o bags, I would just do that as I would not airbags unless the front had them too.
BTW nobody comment on me whoring this thread b/c I haven't yet, the thread started gave indirect permission so I'm all good :mexsmoke:
Still suspension related so I don't see the issue. The lower coils are an option even if I don't notch it I can run 10psi in the bags and still sit 1/2" lower or so. I think it would handle better with smaller coils, helper bags aired up, and the sway bar angle corrected. I have it pretty dieled in right now it will walk the ass out perfect under throttle around corners w/o oversteering too much, still too sloppy even for an suv tho.
Modded
11-05-2009, 11:40 PM
What s/c are you getting anyways?
New magnacharger kit with the twin screw eaton TVS-1900.
So much for that notion, little bastards are just a hair too short and hit my panhard bracket even it I notch the damn thing. I guess 1" off the stockers is the best bet so next step is welding the ones I cut and trying again. I had hoped it would be easier lol.
NathanJax
11-06-2009, 05:06 PM
So much for that notion, little bastards are just a hair too short and hit my panhard bracket even it I notch the damn thing. I guess 1" off the stockers is the best bet so next step is welding the ones I cut and trying again. I had hoped it would be easier lol.
Even moved to the passenger side?
If you can, send me a pair please...
:Handshake:
I tried everything. They may have fit with the stocker but not with this big ass eibach. I'll get some of the welded links on and let you know, you're gonna owe me a case of beer and some nuggets with all the shit I keep sending you lol.
NathanJax
11-06-2009, 07:48 PM
I tried everything. They may have fit with the stocker but not with this big ass eibach. I'll get some of the welded links on and let you know, you're gonna owe me a case of beer and some nuggets with all the shit I keep sending you lol.
done
:Handshake:
Modded
11-07-2009, 04:53 AM
Max how much thicker is your Eibach rear bar?
Thinking about getting one of its worth it.....
Never measured the stocker but it's significantly larger and quite a bit stiffer. Made a huge difference.
chistoso
11-07-2009, 12:51 PM
it's significantly larger and quite a bit stiffer. Made a huge difference.
That's what she said..:Handshake:
I tried cutting my stockers and tried to weld the back together and they kept breaking at the welds. Even tried to sleeve 'em amd weld the sleeves but they kept snapping. I think I know why, You say yours hit the panhard bar and I thing mine did as wellcausing them to break with the pressure.. I just went back with a stock set..
Modded
11-07-2009, 02:39 PM
That's what she said..:Handshake:
I tried cutting my stockers and tried to weld the back together and they kept breaking at the welds. Even tried to sleeve 'em amd weld the sleeves but they kept snapping. I think I know why, You say yours hit the panhard bar and I thing mine did as wellcausing them to break with the pressure.. I just went back with a stock set..
Not surprised, those end links get alot of pressure.
I remember when I changed my front end links to the 1" Energy links because of my drop. Forgot to put the HD bushings on the ends an the end links pulled right off on the highway:shocked:
Could def. feel the extra sway and horrible handling....
Remember Max/Nathan/Chistoso you could always get the DJM rear harware kit, problem is you will be stuck with t-arm relocators you don't need.
chistoso
11-07-2009, 06:30 PM
Remember Max/Nathan/Chistoso you could always get the DJM rear harware kit, problem is you will be stuck with t-arm relocators you don't need.
That's what I'm afraid of. Don't need more stuff to take up room. I'm gonna stick it out with the stock links unless Max or someone comes up with another option..
Man I saw where MAX posted about the Belltech?? rear springs and those setting his nali 1/2in lower and the springs ride better.....WTF, this is like the holy grail.
I have McGaughys 3/5 with black rear springs. I never asked - do they come in a HD and a non-HD version?? I never liked the ride to be honest. I think the springs or the rear end is the cause of my vibration.
B
NORCAL SS
11-07-2009, 10:07 PM
dual adjustable endlinks ive been selling for a while now. work from 1-7 inch drop. how much are the jeep fixed endlinks?
NathanJax
11-08-2009, 04:57 AM
dual adjustable end links I've been selling for a while now. work from 1-7 inch drop.
How much?
how much are the jeep fixed end links?
They are free. :)
When he lifts a Jeep, they put new longer end links on and toss out the old ones if the customer doesn't want them...
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