Wiring Back Doors

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thehoe92

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I have a 2003 Tahoe and the rear doors have molex plugs that take up the entire grommet hole so I am not so sure how I am going to run a 12 gauge and a 16 gauge wire through.

How did you guys mod it?
I can post pictures when I get home.

I got the fronts done no problem just the rears that are a PITA!
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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which wires do I need to keep for the window switch and door light and locking relay and which ones can I get rid of?
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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so I can run new wires through.
if I don't need the stock speaker wires then I can pull them out to make more room for the bigger wire that I am putting in.
 

OmarR

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You can run additional wires thru the molex without removing any of the existing wires.

You want to run (1) 12ga and (1) 16ga? I ran (2) 10ga and (2) 16ga in each door for my window modules, all without removing any stock wiring.

But I did take a drill bit to slightly enlarge the empty molex slots that were not being used.
 

nellynel

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what i did was i removed one of the four clips and used a dremel to clean it up ran my speaker wire. :)
 
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thehoe92

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sorry correction 1 12 gauge as in positive and negative and 1 gauge positive and negative of RF speaker wire.
I'll mess around with it tomorrow it kind of sucks they did that on these models though
 

Copper&Black

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I have many wires leading into my rear doors, one 8 gauge, and two 16 gauge sets. They are placed in the slots left by the removal of the top and bottom clips of this molex plug, with no furthger modification. If you need a little extra room you can use an airtool with a grinding cone or small sanding drum to take a little out of the bottom of the opening in the pillar, but should not be needed if you are running 1 or even 2 sets of speaker wire...
 
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oreowizard98

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Unless you are running serious power, the stock wiring harness will be fine. Just tap into the harness at the back of the radio. Just my .02c
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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Unless you are running serious power, the stock wiring harness will be fine. Just tap into the harness at the back of the radio. Just my .02c

I'm going to run a Sundown SAX-100.4 to 1 set of T3 6.5" components in the front and 1 set of T3 5.25" components in the back.

stock wire will not do
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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oh my bad I forgot to put in the 6 its 12 and 16 gauge speaker wire.

and I found my solution.
took each and every individual pin out of the plug put some heatshrink over each plug so they don't short out on each other and plugged the little pins into the smaller clips. only problem is the grommet doesn't really seal up its just in the hole.

I'll have pictures of it tomorrow only got one side done today
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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so here is my way of wiring up '03+ Tahoe rear doors :)

you've got the plug aka the problem
IMG_8223.jpg


just big enough to snap in to the door frame so that means no running after market speaker wire
IMG_8224.jpg


and not really any room in the plug for 12 gauge connections
IMG_8225.jpg


but there is room if just the black clips are connected since they are smaller than the actual plug
IMG_8226.jpg


the pins that need to be pulled out
IMG_8227.jpg


IMG_8228.jpg


notice the tabs...
IMG_8229.jpg


bent them over so some heat shrink would slip over
IMG_8230.jpg


each pin heat shrunk so nothing can short or ground out
IMG_8231.jpg


IMG_8232.jpg


IMG_8233.jpg


silicone lube and duct tape is your friend for pushing wires through grommets
IMG_8234.jpg


IMG_8235.jpg


black plugs all wired up
IMG_8238.jpg


not exactly water proof but I'll be thinking of a solution soon
IMG_8240.jpg


the boot was only meant to wrap around the white plug not fit in between the door frame
IMG_8242.jpg


RCA's, speaker wire, and Rockford Fosgate bass knob
IMG_8243.jpg


waiting for a home :D
IMG_8244.jpg


kinda messy but I still need to mount the crossovers so it will get cleaned up
 

matt14

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Not to bad, you not worried about the terminals seperating when opening the door, or vibration? I've been trying to think of a way to wire the doors so i dont have to use the existing wires, but not sure if this is the way.
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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opening the door won't rip them out because there is no tension its just suspended there.
vibration isn't a problem because when I close the door it kind of seals it together and makes it solid in between the door frame and the plug is floating in the b-pillar so it can't vibrate on anything.
 

OmarR

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You definitely went the extra mile!

Here is how I did mine; I just drilled out the top 3 empty slots, and the bottom one, (which you have a lot of pics of) - I just drilled that out, and aimed away from the other pins. As you can see, you have ALOT of room to work with if you do it that way.

Only added about 15 mins to the job. I posted earlier that I ran (2) 12ga wires, but I think it was 10ga than I ran for my 530t's.

plug01.jpg


plug02.jpg
 
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thehoe92

thehoe92

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yup I considered that after you said thats what you did but IMO it was easier for me to do what I did because now I can run a lot more wires if needed.

I'm curious to see what the '00-'02 looks like
 

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