adding keys in addition to a 6" lift?

[96ProCompTahoe]

anyone do it? i need to get a couple inches out of the front of the HOE and theres no way im putting a body lift on it and the moneys not there to do the SFA swap at the moment.

the rear will be easy, just order 8" springs instead of 6" springs when i ditch the blocks.

[992door]

I see no problem with doing it. You cant get any more out of your stock keys

[96ProCompTahoe]

they probably have a little left in them, but i'd rather put the right keys on it when i get around to the rear spring packs. (may just have to break down and do the 3/4 ton bars to see if it really works haha)

[992door]

what are you looking at runnin next 37s-38s

[bowtiefreak]

Got apicture of your CV angles? That will answer the question. Mine are just about level right now. Start cranking on them and the ride gets stiff and changes get better that you will bust a CV.

[96ProCompTahoe]

they are pretty much straight at the moment. i start breaking axles and the SFA swap will be here a hell of alot sooner. haha

i'd like to be able to squeeze 38's on it without having to put a damn body lift on it or cut up the truck. if it comes to it i could live with 37's. not to many around rolling on more than 35's

[992door]

i think that 38s on a 10 wide wheel would be kinda tight. i know someone with 6" lift 2" bl on 37s and he says that he still rubs a little bit

[96ProCompTahoe]

my 35's rub a little on the fender flares and the very edge of the fender at full turn and turning on bumps. wheel offset needed to be moved a little.

im sure 38's aren't going to fit but who knows. i wouldn't mind trimmimng the front fenders a little

[bowtiefreak]

Trim the fenders a bit, my 35's rub every now and then until I broke out the saw. I'd saw you are safe to crank at least 1-1.5". How hard do you wheel the truck?

[96ProCompTahoe]

with remodeling the house it hasn't gotten wheeled at all. can't afford to break anything at the moment. it won't ever get hardcore wheeled. to much money in the body to tear it up. (till it gets the SFA swap) for now its muddy fields and some better stuff every now and then.


can't trash the daily driver. but it does get dirty.

[bowtiefreak]

Keep the crank to a minimum IMO, 1-1.5" max I think. I know you said no body lift, but what about a 2"? Take it off when you SAS it.

[96ProCompTahoe]

eh i'll just stick to 35"s to keep a BL off of it. theres a few locally that have BL's on them and they just don't look that great. no back bumper brackets, and im not hacking mine up since it just got painted. that and the hitch hangs to low.

frame sag under the body= FAIL. hahaha

[bowtiefreak]

good call, these things show enough frame already. I just spent 4 hours under mine painting the frame and wheel wells, came our real nice

[96ProCompTahoe]

i painted mine last fall and it a huge difference on the look. which reminds me i have to touch it up where it got overspray on it from the rocker. add another task to the weekend list.

[bowtiefreak]

Yeah the paint made a world of difference. I want to do the rear and leafs next

[99COOP]

eh i'll just stick to 35"s to keep a BL off of it. theres a few locally that have BL's on them and they just don't look that great. no back bumper brackets, and im not hacking mine up since it just got painted. that and the hitch hangs to low.

frame sag under the body= FAIL. hahaha

You dont have to cut the bumper up at all to make it fit right, but you minus well go with a couple inches on just cranking. Just pick up some ford keys or Maxx cam keys.

[jmildoc]

what are yall painting the frame with.... how are you prepping it?

[bowtiefreak]

The prep it, I scrubbed it with dish soap and a stiff bristle brush until it looked clean. I spray painted the wheel wells and brush painted the frame with semigloss rustolium if I remember correctly.