View Full Version : Pickin a cam
Robert.K
08-17-2009, 01:01 PM
Can somebody please fill this void of stupidity in my brain! I want to UPGRADE my cam but have no Ideal how to go about it. What do I look for? How do I know that the cam Im looking at is BETTER then what I have. Not looking for something aggressive, but a mild cam would be nice. Plan on getting a SC in the future so would want it to work fluidly with one. any help would be nice!
coopiesb
08-17-2009, 01:14 PM
i have no idea........ but im looking to get the same thing!!
DallasD
08-17-2009, 03:45 PM
I'm currently talking to my motor guy about a bunch of different setups. I will write on here what the outcome is when I get a sit down with him. I'm looking for more torque down low and not so much on the hp side. I want to scream til about 80 then if it falls off I'm not worried about it. If you want to do a S/C I would suggest doing some forged low compression pistons and all of the supporting mods. Otherwise you won't be able to run more that maybe 6-8 lbs of boost without fear of blowing something.
Robert.K
08-17-2009, 10:49 PM
yeah please keep us up dated!
SloZ71Hoe
08-17-2009, 11:34 PM
if you are looking for some low end i would keep the duration around 218/220 or some where close to that. Running a small stall with that will also help, but not nessary. I just got done puttin my cam in my tahoe its a 218/222 .564/.566 on a 112 lsa. If you are wanting a supercharger down the line i would keep it around a 114 lsa. Thats just what i have been told after purchasing my cam. So far i have just a TB stall and my cam and i can tell a difference in low end and its just half ass tuned.
first you need to figure out what all your going to do motor wise then pick a cam combo. Im sure some other guys will chime in also
JennaBear
08-17-2009, 11:43 PM
First and foremost, the best person to suggest a cam for your needs, would be the cam company itself. You should be able to call them and tell them exactly what you are looking for as well as what your future plans are. They should be able to suggest a grind.
That being said, a 218/220 is not good for low end, and I would not suggest it unless you want a good mid range cam.
I wanted a mild cam for my Tahoe as it is a DD and I knew a blower would be going on. I went with Comp Cam 206/212 115LSA and was pleased with the results across the power band. I didn't want a lopey cam, nor one that would take away the pleasure of driving.
SloZ71Hoe
08-17-2009, 11:50 PM
thats what i did, called comp and talked to them about what i wanted... And thats what they cut for me.
Robert.K
08-18-2009, 02:57 AM
Whats the product number on that cam?
SloZ71Hoe
08-18-2009, 01:42 PM
which one, hers or mine? I dont remember mine. Like i said i called up comp and told them that i was going to put a cam in my truck and he told me that this cam would work for keeping some low end. He said i didnt have to run a stall but if i wanted to it would help alot more.
They will be more than happy to help you pic out a cam. They were alot of help when i was trying to find a cam for my truck, even though its now in my tahoe. lol
NoChrome
08-20-2009, 03:33 PM
I would say determine what RPM band you want to work with. Keep it under 6k? Maybe push it to 65? Once you have your high side figured out find cams that work up there, and find the bottom of those cams say 2500 rpm. Get a stall to match that cams low end. Now, you want to blow it right? You want little to no over lap between your exhaust and intake lobes. Which is more than the LSA (lobe seperation angle) you must also factor in the duration of the cam to find the over lap...
I would recommend this cam "TR Blower" - 214/230 .601/.579 117 LSA
idle to 6800rpm, will prolly still want a mild stall, say 2300-2500, you can steal one from a 6cyl trailblazer for cheap.
blueflamed03
08-20-2009, 04:43 PM
212/218 one
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=1085&sb=2
206/212 one, which I agree with Jenna, this will offer more low end.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=1095&sb=2
---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:42 PM ----------
I would recommend this cam "TR Blower" - 214/230 .601/.579 117 LSA
idle to 6800rpm, will prolly still want a mild stall, say 2300-2500, you can steal one from a 6cyl trailblazer for cheap.I wouldn't use that on a NA engine, that's a blower grind with wide LSA.
Guys picking up a factory ZO6 camshaft out of a 2002-03 -04. This cam will make good power and you will have great reliablity with a factory camshaft. Have dynoed several 5.3's that make close to 330rwhp and then you can change the heads to 6.0l truck heads drop compression and run 10-12 pounds of boost which will respond to the camshaft flawlessly. Just a thought and cheap to do...
blueflamed03
08-21-2009, 09:10 AM
hyde, what do you do for a living, access to a dyno?
Yuke2K
08-21-2009, 12:37 PM
206/212 one, which I agree with Jenna, this will offer more low end.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=1095&sb=2
That one says "significant gains in the mid and upper RPM range"
Isn't that contradictive of a low end cam? I'm not trying to be an ass, I really am curious since I know dick about this and I'm eyballing cams for my 6.0 swap.
blueflamed03
08-21-2009, 12:53 PM
That one says "significant gains in the mid and upper RPM range"
Isn't that contradictive of a low end cam? I'm not trying to be an ass, I really am curious since I know dick about this and I'm eyballing cams for my 6.0 swap.
if you look at the factory torque peak on even the factory cam, it isn't until 1800-2200. That's why alot of people say a converter is a good first add on.
Now stick a cam with 206/212 in a 350 cu in, that is a really small cam. But in a 284 cu in or 325 cu in, that's about as mild as you can go. A TQ or gear swap will really wake this cam up.
---------- Post added at 11:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 AM ----------
now for your 6.0, you can stand to go a tad larger, you have more displacement.
Like Towelie said on SouthPark, "I have no idea what you guys are talking about."
..But I will!
NoChrome
08-21-2009, 04:11 PM
I wouldn't use that on a NA engine, that's a blower grind with wide LSA.
Right, but they guy wants a blower, in the end, why not only buy 1 $400 cam and even if its not the "best" for a na motor, it will still out perform stock.
blueflamed03
08-21-2009, 04:14 PM
well it's a package deal, if SC is like a year away, I for sure wouldn't put a blower grind in, or vice versa. If SC is semi close, possibly. But if it's a long term go, I wouldn't.
Blue, I had a shop for many years. I have several close friends who own big shops in Houston/Pearland. I know work offshore as a consultant for BP in GoM. I have built many high powered LS1, LS2 and to many to list small block chev and ford race motors. I love the LS platform and they make big numbers very easily.
JennaBear
08-22-2009, 11:59 PM
Justin has a Z06 cam in his SSS I believe. I wouldn't want it in my 5.3L but it performs well with the blower on the 6.0L.
I went with the 206/212 as I knew I would be getting a blower but also needed it for a DD in the meantime. Kinda the best of both worlds for me.
Yuke2K
08-23-2009, 08:56 AM
Hyde, would it be worth it to drop a Z06 cam in my 6.0, or should I run something bigger? I eventually would like to run a blower, but that is a year or two down the road. I'm just looking for gains while maintaining a near-stock idle for DD.
DallasD
08-23-2009, 11:32 AM
If you want to keep stock idle and get a few gains just upgrade the springs and allow the motor to work more efficient. BY letting the valve stay open longer you will make more power by freeing up hp and then just by your cam when you get the blower. Also do some e-fans and free up more hp that way. No sense in buying a cam now if it is not the best one for a blower that you are going to do anyway.
Yuke2K
08-23-2009, 06:43 PM
If you want to keep stock idle and get a few gains just upgrade the springs and allow the motor to work more efficient. BY letting the valve stay open longer you will make more power by freeing up hp and then just by your cam when you get the blower. Also do some e-fans and free up more hp that way. No sense in buying a cam now if it is not the best one for a blower that you are going to do anyway.
I'm only asking about the Z06 cam in the 6.0 because of what Jenna posted...
Justin has a Z06 cam in his SSS I believe. I wouldn't want it in my 5.3L but it performs well with the blower on the 6.0L.
So if the Z06 cam will give decent gains by itself AND perform well with a blower, that might be the route I go with it. Not sure what I'll do yet.
NoChrome
08-23-2009, 10:14 PM
Heres the specs on the z06 cams, but I would go with the other guys, wait to get the cam until you got the blower. Take care of the supporting stuff first... e-fans, exhaust, stall, p/p the tb ect.
zo6 385hp cam 204/211 valve lift 0.525/.0525 lsa 116
z06 405hp cam 214/218 valve lift 0.555/0.551 lsa 117.5
Yuke2K
08-24-2009, 12:54 PM
Thanks for the cam specs, but you guys are missing the point of my question here. I've already got the 6.0, it's sitting in a crate getting ready to be built up. I am going to cam it and beef up the valvetrain while it's out of the truck. Don't worry about the e-fans and stall and all that, I'll be doing that when I drop the new motor in.
All I want to know is whether or not the Z06 cam will play nice with the 6.0 without a blower, and what kind of gains I'd see with it. We have already established that the Z06 cam runs well when combined with a blower, thanks to Jenna. I'm just wondering what kind of gains I'd see running one in a n/a 6.0 until I can get with Jenna on a Magnacharger.
JennaBear
08-24-2009, 01:15 PM
I say go with the Z06, will be good N/A and even better when you decide to go F/I. No need to swap out down the road.
blueflamed03
08-24-2009, 02:12 PM
Blue, I had a shop for many years. I have several close friends who own big shops in Houston/Pearland. I know work offshore as a consultant for BP in GoM. I have built many high powered LS1, LS2 and to many to list small block chev and ford race motors. I love the LS platform and they make big numbers very easily.coolio :D
NathanJax
08-24-2009, 04:35 PM
I'm only asking about the Z06 cam in the 6.0 because of what Jenna posted...
So if the Z06 cam will give decent gains by itself AND perform well with a blower, that might be the route I go with it. Not sure what I'll do yet.
We have already established that the Z06 cam runs well when combined with a blower, thanks to Jenna.
I say go with the Z06, will be good N/A and even better when you decide to go F/I. No need to swap out down the road.
I'm kinda new to the "what cam I need" game. But basically What your saying is if I have a 6.0, with basic mods (intake, exhaust, E-Fans, BB Tune), then I can get one of the Z06 stock cams to finish up the modding to my truck?
Which Z06 cam?
zo6 385hp cam 204/211 valve lift 0.525/.0525 lsa 116
z06 405hp cam 214/218 valve lift 0.555/0.551 lsa 117.5
I ask this because this is really all the performance mods I plan on doing. Unless there are other basic mods that can be done (besides LT headers)
Yuke2K
08-24-2009, 06:43 PM
This is another good question. If it were me, I'd pick the one that makes the biggest numbers....but then again, I don't know shit about this lol. And on top of that, "bigger numbers" when put in a vette that runs higher RPMs might not mean bigger numbers when the same cam is used in a truck.
Jenna, any input on this?
JennaBear
08-24-2009, 07:35 PM
It is a toss up, but it is more personal preference than anything. That being said, Justin's Z06 cam might be up for sale here soon :)
Yuke2K
08-24-2009, 07:51 PM
It is a toss up, but it is more personal preference than anything. That being said, Justin's Z06 cam might be up for sale here soon :)
Dibs :D
As for the different cams, does one make more power down low than the other? I can look at specs all day, but if you have any first hand info on that, I'd love to hear it.
NathanJax
08-24-2009, 08:26 PM
Dibs :D
Actually, you should take everyones advice and NOT do the z06 cam if your going to s/c...
And in that case, I got dibs
:flipthebird:
:D :joke:
As for the different cams, does one make more power down low than the other? I can look at specs all day, but if you have any first hand info on that, I'd love to hear it.
Ditto.
How exactly is it personal preference if I don't know the difference? (besides 20hp)
Sorry, you might have to talk to me about this stuff like I'm 12... I've tried to figure out all these degrees and slopes and stuff, but it hurts my brain.
To Clarify, for my DD, if I have intake, exhaust, E-Fans, BB Tune and want to get a cam, would the best all around (performance,price) be a stock z06 cam? And if so, which one of those would I chose and why? Maybe if you could give a comparison on the 2 and the reasons why you would want to chose one or the other?
I'll PayPal you $5 for your time explaining this to me :D
PS I love TYF.com :worship:
.
Yuke2K
08-24-2009, 08:27 PM
:scum:
:gr_grin:
You know, you should take everyones advice and NOT do the z06 cam if your going to s/c...
In that case, I got dibs :Handshake:
Heh, maybe I'll go with a blower, maybe I wont...I might do the cammed LQ4 and save the blower for the new Tahoe I plan on buying once the Yuke is paid off, in which case I'll be glad I scored that cam from Justin. :D
NathanJax
08-24-2009, 08:37 PM
Heh, maybe I'll go with a blower, maybe I wont...I might do the cammed LQ4 and save the blower for the new Tahoe I plan on buying once the Yuke is paid off, in which case I'll be glad I scored that cam from Justin. :D
Fine.. 2nd DIBs... (Jenna, monies in PayPal) :D
Bumping to keep this at the top cause I'm really interested in her response :)
NoChrome
08-24-2009, 08:44 PM
Translating cam is a little difficult, but Ill put it this way... If you have lots of valve overlap, you get good mid and high end power, with a nasty lope down low, a loss of vaccume, a terrible idle, and a really mean sounding lope. You get valve over lap based off of the LSA or lobe seperation angle. Thats from top of the intake to top of the exhaust in degrees. To find the overlap you have to taken in the duration of each lobe and the lsa... Now to negate the draw back of the overlap you can tune your idle higher, and get a torque converter that doesnt lock up untill you are nearing your power band.
Now if you have a big heavy slow truck... you want very little overlap, a draw back to that is you lose the high end power but you have a much more "streetable" ride. These cams are found in most stock applications for emission reasons and reliabliaty. The biggest perk (in my book) for little overlap is more dynamic compression ratio. We can all use math to find the static compression ratio, but when the motor is turning and the valves are open at the same time you loose some of that pressure and force air (and valuable fuel) right out the exhaust. Which is why you want little overlap on a super charged engine.
Thats the basics of what we need here. I could go on but this post is long enough.
NathanJax
08-24-2009, 09:01 PM
Translating cam is a little difficult, but Ill put it this way...
Thats the basics of what we need here. I could go on but this post is long enough.
I'm reading that, and I somewhat understand that, but I still don't know how to figure out what those numbers mean and how to translate that into which cam to pick. I've read about it here and PT.net, but still don't grasp it.
I need it in layman's terms. Like...
"zo6 385hp cam 204/211 valve lift 0.525/.0525 lsa 116" means fast 0-60mph but slow 60-100mph
"z06 405hp cam 214/218 valve lift 0.555/0.551 lsa 117.5" means good all around streetable truck. Good steady climb all the way to 100mph
You know what I mean?
NoChrome
08-24-2009, 09:08 PM
Ok, look at it like this, for the most part a really narrow lsa like 112* or 114* will be better for high engin RPM, a really wide lsa 116* 117* is good for low end power like idle up to around 3-4K rpm...
Now if you buy a converter that will flash to 3K rpm, you dont need the low end power because your stall lets you blow right by it. But with the stall and that cam you need a tranny cooler, a tune, and prolly exhaust work.
Figure out what rpm band you spend most of your time in, then weigh the pros and cons of each and go from there.
The Z06 cams would be fine for any truck on here, if I were going to pick one I would pick the 117.5 lsa cam. But I would not personally want a z06 cam I would go with this one 214/220 .600/.523 115 LSA
JennaBear
08-24-2009, 09:51 PM
Basically, the lower HP cam, will make more power at the low end. The higher HP cam will obviously make higher HP however, at the mid-high end. There is not a huge difference between the two for all intents and purposes.
NathanJax
08-24-2009, 09:59 PM
Basically, the lower HP cam, will make more power at the low end. The higher HP cam will obviously make higher HP however, at the mid-high end. There is not a huge difference between the two for all intents and purposes.
But you would need to get a stall converter as well? Or would that only "Help"?
NoChrome
08-24-2009, 10:00 PM
For those cams you do not NEED a converter but they always help getting you outta the hole.
JennaBear
08-24-2009, 10:05 PM
We don't have a stall on the SSS, just depends on how you are using your vehicle. We will be putting a stall in with the new cam and engine though.
NathanJax
08-24-2009, 10:10 PM
PM'ed you both
:)
Subscribed. Stalls are hard to understand ....ugh
B O S S
JennaBear
08-24-2009, 10:46 PM
I will probably be going with a 2800 stall on the Tahoe,as I don't want anything too loose, I want to maintain the DD driveability.
Well they work really well with a tune and headers and pulley. I have dynoed several 5.3's that make around 320-330 to the wheels. They work great with blowers for sure. I worked a 2002 ZO6 with stock cubes and stock cam with 6.0l heads and a vortech, with 14pounds of boost it made 630rwhp on easy tune and in cool weather it made 670rwhp...Mean for a stock cube lil street car.
Robert.K
08-25-2009, 12:58 AM
So I get the LSA numbers now, thanks for the info! but now Im curious as to what the other numbers mean. I know the specs on the stock cam, but if the cam Im looking at has higher numbers does that make it better? or lower numbers better? But Im totally tracking on the lsa! I want to be fast out the whole, maybe 0-80 quick. Dont plan on going over 100 cause thats alittle to fast in a truck of this size for me. Still want a blower, and what the hell is a stall? Im guessing it keeps the engine from stalling, but would like to really understand what it is. Really am intrigued by this stuff!
---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ----------
And I also have a goal of 500+ Hp, atleast 400 of it at the wheels. Whats needs so I can make my wish list for santa for the next 3 years!
Robert, making the power and getting it to the ground will cost you roughly 8-10g's if you buy the stuff new. I wouldnt suggest this to anyone but I wanted to test the factory 5.3 engine and back in 2003 I took a stock 5.3 with only a K&N air filter and sprayed it very heavy. I sprayed 35 pounds of Nitrous on a friday night and 35 pounds of Nitrous on a saturday night for over 6 months. I didnt just spray it I really sprayed it. My truck with a K&N made 261 to the rear wheels. When I sprayed it, it made 430rwhp 540trq to the tires. Again I would not suggest it, I was testing. It finally let go and when it did it wasnt nice...But the tranny held up also during this time. If you are going to do a blower buy a set of 6.0L heads to drop compression more. Then a small camshaft or ZO6 camshaft, long tube headers, injectors and pump, tranny and converter 2800-3200 stall speed. Buy a quality converter that is effecient. Next do a rear carrier the G80 wont hold up.(From experience again). Last thing is a blower of your choice and a good tune. Make sure the blower is a bigger one not a stock maggie. You will need a TVS, MP122HH, Vortech, or a single turbo kit. Good luck. Buy as much as you can used and save the money.
NoChrome
08-25-2009, 01:41 PM
So I get the LSA numbers now, thanks for the info! but now Im curious as to what the other numbers mean. I know the specs on the stock cam, but if the cam Im looking at has higher numbers does that make it better? or lower numbers better? But Im totally tracking on the lsa! I want to be fast out the whole, maybe 0-80 quick. Dont plan on going over 100 cause thats alittle to fast in a truck of this size for me. Still want a blower, and what the hell is a stall? Im guessing it keeps the engine from stalling, but would like to really understand what it is. Really am intrigued by this stuff!
---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 PM ----------
And I also have a goal of 500+ Hp, atleast 400 of it at the wheels. Whats needs so I can make my wish list for santa for the next 3 years!
Ok the cam stuff...
The first two numbers, 214/220, that is the duration at .050" of lift. Intake is the first number exhaust is the second number. and that duration is exactaly what it sounds like, how long the valve will be open in degrees with a minimum "openess" of .050 inches. Longer duration the more air you can get in and out of the cylinder. But with that duration you get overlap because the number of degrees in a circle is 360* and your open a combined 454* which is where your lsa comes in at say 115* + the lift and I dont have the caculator for this but its not that complicated= valve overlap. Oh I nearly forgot. The duration is typicaly what decides how "big" a cam is.
The second set of numbers .600/.551 is the ammount of lift at the valve. Which is very important. Too much lift means your valve will touch your piston ever so gently and ka-fing-boom. The lift listed is always for what ever motor, its built for, with the rocker ratio added in, ie we have 1.7 rockers stock, so if one were to get 1.8 ratio rockers, (not a good idea for cam guys cause the ramp rates of the cam lobes will jack your pushrods) you would do some math to find a total lift of .635 on the intake. Again its hard to explain each part of the cam separately because it all ties together to make power.
Then you get into the LSA, which was already cover, so onto that mysterious +2 or minus what ever on the end of some cam specs. If no number is listed the maker has added no timing to the cam, or taken any away. If there is a +2 (like the old man cam) that means there is 2* ground in, so if one were to pick up this cam make sure the tuner knows about the extra two degrees or your gonna get some knock.
---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------
400hp at the wheels.
Cam, tune, stall (wont get you any power but will make it feel faster) P/P throtle body, intake, headers + full exhaust, ditch anthing over a 20" rim (they rob gobs of power), e-fans. That should put you close, if not pick up some good heads, and your sure to go over with out the blower. Add the blower to the mix you could hit 600+
Cam, tune, stall (wont get you any power but will make it feel faster) P/P throtle body, intake, headers + full exhaust, ditch anthing over a 20" rim (they rob gobs of power), e-fans. That should put you close, if not pick up some good heads, and your sure to go over with out the blower. Add the blower to the mix you could hit 600+[/QUOTE]
I believe until you are making big power from cubes and or compression a P/P throttle body is a waste of money. Intake is a waiste also if you are doing a blower. So if you are really going to do a blower dont waiste the money on these two things. My thoughts
NoChrome
08-25-2009, 02:32 PM
I believe until you are making big power from cubes and or compression a P/P throttle body is a waste of money. Intake is a waiste also if you are doing a blower. So if you are really going to do a blower dont waiste the money on these two things. My thoughts
How can you say that, most intakes (cold air not intake manifold) will work with a blower, and, I for one know, for a fact by personal experience, that p/p on the TB does make a difference. Your whole motor is nothing more than an air pump. The more air you get in, the more air you get out, the more power you make. Not to mention, adding an intake ontop of the blower will only help the blower, the less the blower has to work to pull air in the more air it will move. More air + more fuel = more power
How can you say that, most intakes (cold air not intake manifold) will work with a blower, and, I for one know, for a fact by personal experience, that p/p on the TB does make a difference. Your whole motor is nothing more than an air pump. The more air you get in, the more air you get out, the more power you make. Not to mention, adding an intake ontop of the blower will only help the blower, the less the blower has to work to pull air in the more air it will move. More air + more fuel = more power
Some will some wont. Second alot of times when you are making more boost than 6-8 psi, the lil filter they come with becomes restrictive so you would have to go to a bigger intake piping and bigger filter, so why buy it twice, Wait! As for a P/P throttle body I have hundreds of hours of dyno time under my belt with everything from street cars to 2400hp Outlaw 10.5 turbo cars. For street applications they arent worth they money. I completely understand the operation of motors I can promise you that...This is a discussion forum not a one sided approach. 20yrs ago when I was racing mustangs and stuff I believed in P/P throttle bodies after dyno time and switching parts on the dyno the normal application wont see any benefit at all. Thats the facts!
NoChrome
08-25-2009, 02:48 PM
I have ported my own throtle body and it did make a difference. Not only did it make 11 more hp I got about 3/4 of a mpg out of it as well. The work has paid for itself dozens of times over. Granted it may not help much but it is no throttle body spacer.
I will agree with the air filter part, if one goes cheap it will need to be redone, but its still better than stock.
blueflamed03
08-25-2009, 03:02 PM
on a relatively stock motor, a CAI will make minimal at best in power enhancements.
It is better than stock if he is staying N/A for a while no doubt. I am glad it worked out for ya on your truck. Going out to change rear brake pads on the 03 hoe. Then finish polishing the wheels on the 96 2 door.
---------- Post added at 02:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------
Flammer get to work you slacker!
blueflamed03
08-25-2009, 03:25 PM
who me, slow day :(
Drive down and help a brother out! lol....Naw cant get finished phone call after phone call!
blueflamed03
08-25-2009, 04:42 PM
can be there in about 7 hours!
All done, got two wheels left to polish on the 2 dr. I am cleaning the underside and painting up suspension to ensure it is nice...lol....I need to start a thread about repaint ideas on it. I have had it a long time this color. Maybe a solid color and or two tone again...Any ideas
All done, got two wheels left to polish on the 2 dr. I am cleaning the underside and painting up suspension to ensure it is nice...lol....I need to start a thread about repaint ideas on it. I have had it a long time this color. Maybe a solid color and or two tone again...Any ideas
Not to hyjack but you have access to a paint booth?
B
I have a guy I worked for when I was in college that has one I can use.
I have a guy I worked for when I was in college that has one I can use.
We need to talk about a skills trade :waytogo:. I actually have 2 vehicles that I want to paint.
PM sent
BOSS
Eagle_XL
08-25-2009, 10:59 PM
You'll like the results w/the Z06 cam I'm guessing. But I agree with previous statements that your single best option would be to contact the camshaft manufacturer of your choice and tell them what your plans are and allow them to custom grind you a cam.
You won't regret it. If you've doing a 6.0 build up, whats the couple hundred $ difference between a stock Z06 cam and one thats actually cut for your specific intentions!???
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