Free Travel Mod....

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OnE_bAd_HoE

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Well there seems to be quite a few people on here that want to go low and are interested on doing this free travel mod but don't know what it is or how to do it. so i figured id grab it from the djm website and post it here for the people that need it.



For years professional Installers have been doing this modification to the rear bumps stops for extra clearance and a greatly improved ride. When it comes to lowering I think certain modifications are justified because you can have a truck that is truly lowered (not just torsion bar adjustment in front and a mild drop spring in the rear) and still a very good ride. The Calmax Avalanche is lowered 3” in front and 5” in the rear. The front end is lowered simply by replacing the control arms and aligning.The rear consist of a 5” lowering spring, trailing arm and sway bar kit. Also the rear bump stop brackets were removed and a urethane stop was bolted directly to the frame. With the stock bump stop brackets left in place the ride was fair and bottomed about 10% to 15% of the time. Removing the brackets improved the ride to a point that you would think the truck came from the factory with this stance. Remember it does not hurt anything to ride around for a while without this modification. There is very little disassembly involved and no parts to buy except two bump stops. Under some conditions (leasing etc.) you may not want to do this. I think even if the truck is retuned back to stock this modification is easily reversed.



This is the stock bracket with the bump stop shortened. The ride was fair but can be greatly improved by completely removing the bracket from the frame. See Photo 1.
DSCN3232.gif



First the lower shock bolts and lower sway bar bolts were removed. This frees up the rear end and all that is needed is to remove the springs and lower the rear end. See Photo 2.
Dscn3234.gif



A plasma cutter makes quick work cutting along the profile of the frame making sure not to cut into the frame itself. A good plasma job can get within a 1/16 of an inch. The remainder will be cleaned up with a 4” grinder.
See Photo 3.
RemoveBracket.gif



These are the stops after being cut from the truck. If it is done with skill there is no reason they could not be reattached later. See Photo 4.
BumpStopBracket.gif




Jack the rear end back into place to make sure the new urethane button bump stop will align properly then drill and tap a 3/8 x 16 threaded hole. See Photo 5
Drill.gif




This is the frame after a little clean up with the grinder. Spending a little extra time all evidence of the bracket can be removed. Now you can see the very standard frame that was covered by the bracket. See Photo 6.
SideVeiw.gif




After installing the springs, sway bar links and shocks you can see there is much more clearance than before. This will make for a much improved ride and will eliminate the bottoming problem with the stock configuration. Some customers have commented that the ride and handling is better than stock. We are not going that far but realistically you can have a 5” rear lowering and a very good ride. See Photo 7
NewBumpStop.gif
 

OklaHemi

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that should be mandatory. we have been experimenting with aeon springs on lowered rams in place of bump stops to improve ride quality and launch. so far so good
 
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OnE_bAd_HoE

OnE_bAd_HoE

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Great i think this will help alot of people, i know the pics are kinda small but i will resize the later
 

Jaletti

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so i'm guessing this lowers the rear end without requiring springs? Is there a measurement on how low it drops? does it level it out with the front end?
 

crazycrew

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No!! All this does is remove the bump stop bracket to allow more travel for lowered vehicles
 

Fearz

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Does anyone know about how much a shop would charge for this?
 
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OnE_bAd_HoE

OnE_bAd_HoE

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I was charged $150, not sure what the going rate for this is. Your in Houston, there's alot of air ride shops in your area I would call around and see who gives you the best price..
 

red02chevy

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The way I do it I would charge atleast $200. If I wasn't lowering their Tahoe at the same time it'd probably be closer to $300. I do quite a bit more then just simply cutting the bracket off like the pictures show.
 

waxworkz

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seriously, 30 mins?? took me the better part of a day to do both sides. but i have a burban and the drivers side runs so damn close to the tank. that and on the inside the bracket goes into the spring pocket so i couldnt even grind down the welds all the way. does ride a hell of a lot better now!
 

felixgun

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so i'm guessing this lowers the rear end without requiring springs? Is there a measurement on how low it drops? does it level it out with the front end?

I think you do this afterwards... itis in addition to the springs/drop.
 
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OnE_bAd_HoE

OnE_bAd_HoE

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I was told it is easier if you do it before you do the drop. because you get a lil more clearence.
 

waxworkz

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I was told it is easier if you do it before you do the drop. because you get a lil more clearence.

It doesn't matter when you do it, the springs still have to come out and the rear end dropped down. Either whiling doing the drop initially or after it's been done, as I did mine, the work is the same.
 

Fearz

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I was charged $150, not sure what the going rate for this is. Your in Houston, there's alot of air ride shops in your area I would call around and see who gives you the best price..

Thanks, I will have to look into it and the only problem I can see is if no shops know what the free travel mod is.
 
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OnE_bAd_HoE

OnE_bAd_HoE

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i had that problem but just print these pictures out and tell them exactly how u want.
 

crazycrew

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I did the pass side with a sawzall and the drivers side with a plasma. Just be sure for the drivers side to put something thick enough or a piece of fire blanket between that and the tank.

Ask me how I know????!?!!?!! LOL
 
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