BAGS going in!!!

ive been slowly putting together an air ride kit for the hoe. just won a brand new set of chassis tech 2600lb bags for $76 on ebay. im just going with the coil spring replacment technique, i wanna touch the quarter panels to the 6's and lift for comfort and towing. only thing left is to make some bag cups and gather a few fittings and ill be rockin. im mounting tank/valves/compressor where my spare tire used to be.

one question......
wtf can i do about the front on a 4wd????? let me see some of yalls bags up front on 2wd or 4wd so i can get some ideas. PLEASE!!

Sounds tite dude!
The lowest you can go up front w/o bags is most likely 2" drop of spindles and 2" drop of keys. A 4" drop will have it as low as possible up front, bu then when towing if you ar up the bags it will have some rake.

Loving your truck and I want those wheels! Bagged on 26's will look Amazing!

I'm not sure about his specs but I would PM MOBmentality and get his advice/opinion on the bag kit! My .02

2600 dominators on my truck were rubbing the chassis.. but i got 22s so maybe when you inflate them more (because you got bigger rims) they will clear the chassis...

i ended up with 2500 bags.

good advice is to cut your brackets that go on the differential as short as possible and get your cups as short as possible so that it takes more psi to lift your ride (better ride). You gotta do the free travel mod and get smaller shocks (i got toxic shocks)


for cups i used staggered sizes-
1.75 inch cup on the passenger side
0.5 inch cup on driver side


reason why my cups are different sizes is because for some reason my driver's side was always an inch and a quarter higher than the passenger side in the rear (slight variation depending how much fuel in tank)


with this setup my quarter panel sits at 32.75 and is at 50 psi. Rides pretty damn good

---------- Post added at 10:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:03 AM ----------

some people fix the uneveness of the truck by running lower pressure in one bag than the other... i did that and its junk!


1 - when you inflate one side, it will still raise the other side and then lower the psi off the other side too

2 - opposite happens when you deflate

3- it gets annoying walking side to side to measure your height with every psi change you do

4- you can feel that one side has less pressure than the other when driving


if you put both bags into one air system it makes the ride smoother because you have a larger and more stable volume of air.

if you go over a bump with one tire and you have independent air setup = that one bag is gonna go from 30 psi to lets say 50 because you are compressing a small amount of air. if you have both bags as one system then that 30 psi will spike up less and be smoother because its a larger volume of air that gets compressed.


oh and get COMPRESSION FITTINGS (not push on fittings) and i did 1/4 inch lines so that they dont kink (like my original 1/2 inch)....


good luck

well said Max, ill be waiting as well..

do you want to keep your 4wd? Idno if it matters on the Tahoes but you can do what im doing is im ordering the bag shocks by chassis tech which just go in place of the shocks and just take off the torsion bars. I found them for $400 on ebay im also going to put some drop spindles. Otherwise if you want cups up from you need to find some bolt on cup brackets or get some aftermarket control arms and get some weld on brackets

free travel mod already done. gonna hit up napa for some line and fittings in a day or two. mocked up how the tank/valves/compressor will fit underneath.
had a little set back with some punk keying my shit so im thinkin painting the hoe black, would look tight with everything else being black! still throwing it up...(trying to convince the wife)

if i didnt mind losing the 4wd would i just take the axles out of the front??? or more complicated??? if i removed the axle id probably just weld up some shit for the bag and shock.

and dont worry pletty of pics will be coming!

SSmurdered said:

if i didnt mind losing the 4wd would i just take the axles out of the front??? or more complicated??? if i removed the axle id probably just weld up some shit for the bag and shock.

and dont worry pletty of pics will be coming!

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You can do that and run some 2wd front wheel hubs. Or you can build a new upper control arm and mount the bag on top, which will allow you to keep the front shafts.

and alex has some good advice If you plan on keeping the factory four link.

how bad is your shit keyed up?? thats a shame..

AtomicHoe094 said:

how bad is your shit keyed up?? thats a shame..

Click to expand...

not really that bad just across the driver side doors right in the body line above the molding. ill probably just buff it up and deal with it, im more interested in the bags than the paint right now.

i dont real have the uneven problem alex is talking about... the truck wants to be level.. so when one side is sagging (like if i leave it full up and the right might leak a hair over night) when i hit the switch that side lifts first and levels the truck out..

As of now im running one air supply (tank , 2 compressors) and 6 valves.

2 1/2 inch up in the front 2 1/2 inch down ran to 1 two position switch
1 1//4 inch up in the back 1 1/2 inch down ran to 1 two position switch

I ran the 1/4 inch because the back comes up so fast and i wanted to slow it down a hair.... its still super fast just doesnt feel like it wants to hop now lol

Running the valves to one line in the back hasnt bothered me but when we were running only 2 valves in the front the truck swayed BAD like if i was the only one in it . it would lean to the drivers side.. or even a full tank of gas would make it lean... and bump steer was SCARY.. since hitting a bump on the left side of the truck would force air over into the right back and litterally double the impact of any bump hill or sway .

Now with independent valves up front that problem is gone.

And yes we got rid of the torsion bars.

good talk MOB.

im ready to see some install pics

ive bagged a few vehicles i owned. if youre gonna do it then go all the way. 8 valves. so you dont have the play in the setup. compression fittings. PTC fittings are shit. http://www.airbagit.com/product_p/fbs-che-42-kit3.htm if you scroll over the pic you will see what kind of bracket they use on top of the top control arm for an AWD vehicle. so you can keep your 4wd. all you would have to fab up is a bracket to go on top of the bag. you have to have the drop torsion keys tho. to get you low enough. i have a pic of the top bracket somewhere. but i cant find it. here is an idea of what im talking about for the top of the control arm. this is on a denali. so AWD as well..

helpful thanks denali187. just put the order in to airbagit.com for the remaining pieces i need (ie. pressure switch/gauge/top and bottom plates) on monday. slow ass ground shipping so wont be here til wednesday next week. heres the setup im going with: single 150psi compressor, 5 gal tank, 8 valve manifold, 2600 bags rear, 3/8 dot line, all compression fittings, 110psi on-135psi off switch, tank psi and rear psi gauge, free travel mod w/ rear hardware kit, custom bag mounts....still working on the front,maybe 2500 bags but thats not for a little while. pic next week for sure unless ups suprises me earlier!

Just cut the floor, shit will look nasty tuckin tire that low

good luck with that AIM stuff.....

GL! and cant wait to see how it goes

first... max.. the floors not cut on that one he just has teeeenie wheels.. lol :-D


Second.... man.. airbaggit brackets are waaaaaayyy too tall.. with the bag all the way deflated youre only gonna get -5 or -6 drop it wont even get into your free travel area....

why did you run a 110psi switch? i could be wrong but i thought we ran a bigger switch so it would have the balls to lock up the front

i would NOT weld in those brackets... waste of time, money and undue stress on the truck