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View Full Version : I need another doohickey identified, if someone could help me out.


y0diggity
06-28-2009, 10:58 AM
I was changing my rotors and pads yesterday and I noticed that I have this thing that's broken on both sides. I'm hoping someone can tell me what it is and what it does and how difficult it's going to be to replace.
Below are some pictures. Hopefully you can see them, if not, let me know and I'll figure out why not.
Thanks guys.

http://digitalmonotony.com/wp-content/uploads/misc_pics/tahoe_front1.JPG

http://digitalmonotony.com/wp-content/uploads/misc_pics/tahoe_front2.JPG

http://digitalmonotony.com/wp-content/uploads/misc_pics/tahoe_front3.JPG

Ed Blown Vert
06-28-2009, 11:10 AM
Thats your sway-bar. You must lean quit a bit on turns.

y0diggity
06-28-2009, 11:59 AM
Not sure if I do or not. It's probably been like that since I bought it, so I wouldn't really have anything to compare it to. So do I just replace that on part that goes between the two? If so, do I just tell them I want a sway bar and then bolt it in on the top and bottom? More info please :) What's entailed in the repair of this item?

**edit** Is this the "sway bar link kit" at the parts store?

95TwinTT
06-28-2009, 12:13 PM
You should not need the bar itself. Just the bolt and the nylon fittings that were lost when it broke.

Is the other side the same way?

Call the parts store and tell them your sway bar bolts broke. See what they have in stock. A GM Dealer should have the parts on the shelf.....:)

Ed Blown Vert
06-28-2009, 12:49 PM
The bar is still there, you need the ends like 95TwinTT says.

General Stalin
06-28-2009, 01:36 PM
Yeah, I hate those things. So cheap and flimsy, it's a wonder why they don't break more often.

DJTricky
06-28-2009, 02:31 PM
you can make your own like i did. If you want info pm me. I made some really high performance looking ones that dont flex at all

y0diggity
06-28-2009, 07:02 PM
I installed the new ones, but something doesn't seem right. I ran out of thread on the bolt, and there's still play between the ends. The sleeve and the two inside bushings move freely. Is this ok, or did I install it wrong? Pictures are below, as always. :)

http://digitalmonotony.com/wp-content/uploads/misc_pics/tahoe_front4.JPG

http://digitalmonotony.com/wp-content/uploads/misc_pics/tahoe_front5.JPG

Ed Blown Vert
06-28-2009, 07:22 PM
Nope its not tight enough. Everything should be snugged together.
Are they the correct parts?

y0diggity
06-28-2009, 08:28 PM
The guy gave me Duralast part # SL93. I checked the website and that's what's listed their too. I assume that there needs to be a bushing on each side of each end of it, right? Not all 4 bushings go in the middle, do they? If so, then I have it put together wrong, but that would definitely snug it up.

Ed Blown Vert
06-28-2009, 08:35 PM
Thats correct, two bushings on each end.

You sure the threads dont' go farther down??

y0diggity
06-28-2009, 11:39 PM
I'll double check tomorrow, but the nut locked up right there. It wasn't turning anymore. lol

992door
06-29-2009, 12:16 AM
http://digitalmonotony.com/wp-content/uploads/misc_pics/tahoe_front4.JPG

I dont know why but i found that funny

mikeykey
06-29-2009, 04:49 AM
Is it possibly upside-down?

y0diggity
06-29-2009, 09:18 AM
Is it possibly upside-down?


I don't think so. The threaded end is pretty long and would hit on the part above the sway bar. Besides, the amount of room between the ends of the part are going to be the same no matter which end is which.

The only thing that I can see that is going to change the fit is changing the positioning of the bushings. So instead of one outside and one inside on each end, I'd have to put 2 inside and none outside. At that point, I think the part would last about 2 hours before it gave out.

Is there something that the previous owner could have done to the vehicle that would cause these parts to not align properly?

Another question - Do you think that if I filled that gap with washers or something similar it would work?

Ed Blown Vert
06-29-2009, 09:22 AM
The long threaded end should be near the sway-bar.

y0diggity
06-29-2009, 09:26 AM
The long threaded end should be near the sway-bar.

OK, so the threads point up? I can do that. I'll swap it this afternoon.

Ed Blown Vert
06-29-2009, 11:42 AM
OK, so the threads point up? I can do that. I'll swap it this afternoon.

Yes. That will allow you to tighten down on the bushings.

y0diggity
06-29-2009, 02:54 PM
Flipped one around and it tightened down a little more, but still not nearly tight enough. I plan to stop by Home Depot on the way home this afternoon and grab some washers to take up the remainder of the slack in it. I'm thinkin' that should work. That or the front wheels will fall off. Either way, I will have accomplished something...

ravingmadman
06-29-2009, 03:01 PM
My vote- take the part back, and get the right one. This is going to affect how your rig does in the corners. I see that this is the driver's side, which means when you turn left, your rig will corner correctly, but when you turn right, your rig will feel less stable. If you're doing any hauling, or going fast, this will get old really fast. If this is just a DD, that never gets abused, go for the washers, I guess, but they owe you the correct part. My $0.02. :headbang:

Ed Blown Vert
06-29-2009, 04:50 PM
Flipped one around and it tightened down a little more, but still not nearly tight enough. I plan to stop by Home Depot on the way home this afternoon and grab some washers to take up the remainder of the slack in it. I'm thinkin' that should work. That or the front wheels will fall off. Either way, I will have accomplished something...

Were you able to take up all the slack?

ravingmadman
06-29-2009, 05:44 PM
Oh, btw, it also looks like your front output shaft seals are leaking, and you could probably use some new shocks, too. But, if you've been driving it around like this for a while, and haven't noticed a problem, I wouldn't worry too much about it...

wmgood64
06-29-2009, 07:19 PM
dude you must have alot of body roll!!

haks310
06-29-2009, 07:59 PM
i'm thinkin' that should work. That or the front wheels will fall off. Either way, i will have accomplished something...

lmfao!

992door
06-29-2009, 10:16 PM
dude you must have alot of body roll!!

it is proably not as bad as you think. I know of a couple of people that are running without them one has 8" of lift and 37's and the other 3" BL and 36's they say it rides better that with it one

qlc1964
06-30-2009, 12:39 AM
mine broke too 3 yrs ago passenger side. went to the dealer to get one bolted right

up.

95TwinTT
06-30-2009, 02:42 AM
In all due respect………

Sway Bars can save your life. It’s true that most of the time, they are just hanging there doing nothing, but if you ever have to take a hard turn or swerve to avoid having an accident, it can be the difference between turning or rolling. :)

mikeykey
06-30-2009, 04:08 AM
In all due respect………

Sway Bars can save your life. It’s true that most of the time, they are just hanging there doing nothing, but if you ever have to take a hard turn or swerve to avoid having an accident, it can be the difference between turning or rolling. :)

uhh ditto times 10!!!!!!!!!!!!! do it right, don't put washers in there gezzzz.

y0diggity
06-30-2009, 11:06 PM
My vote- take the part back, and get the right one. This is going to affect how your rig does in the corners. I see that this is the driver's side, which means when you turn left, your rig will corner correctly, but when you turn right, your rig will feel less stable. If you're doing any hauling, or going fast, this will get old really fast. If this is just a DD, that never gets abused, go for the washers, I guess, but they owe you the correct part. My $0.02. :headbang:

Actually, both sides were completely snapped. It was ugly. I went to the parts store and they were all the same. My guess is that it's the right part, but something's probably wrong with my rig or the previous owner did something that made it different from stock.

Oh, btw, it also looks like your front output shaft seals are leaking, and you could probably use some new shocks, too. But, if you've been driving it around like this for a while, and haven't noticed a problem, I wouldn't worry too much about it...

Geez Madman, you're just the bearer of all sorts of good news, aren't you? lol j/k :) Maybe a few more things can fall off if I'm lucky. As much time as I spend working on my Tahoe, my neighbors actually think I'm a car enthusiast. They don't really understand that I'm more of a couch enthusiast who has developed an auto repair hobby out of necessity. :emotions122: This thing is killin' me. If it weren't for the fact that I honestly love my Tahoe, I think I would have driven it off a cliff a long time ago.

For now, until I can figure out why it isn't fitting right, I'm using a few washers. They've taken up the slack and are functional, but I'm definitely going to have to figure out why the correct parts aren't fitting it.

Any idea what could have been done to the truck that would change that part of it?

Ninety5PoloZ
07-01-2009, 09:44 AM
it is proably not as bad as you think. I know of a couple of people that are running without them one has 8" of lift and 37's and the other 3" BL and 36's they say it rides better that with it one

Well sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the people that you know are morons.....No Offense, but if you are off roading and want some extra flex its cool to unhook them, but always hook them up before you hit the highway. With a lift and big tires if they had to get onto an on ramp they would probably just roll over. Sway bars were put there for a reason...added safety, and if you don't think they are needed then please stay off the roads.

The sway bar end link on my tahoe broke and it makes a world of difference not having it there. Actually makes some turns rather scary.

But to the OP the parts store gave you the wrong ones. There are 2 different sets, one for HD models and one for regular models, they probably gave you the HD ones since the lower A arm is quite a bit thicker. Take them back and tell them that they are too long and that you need some that are shorter.

Dr. Overkill
07-01-2009, 11:37 AM
Be sure you have the truck sitting on the ground when you tighten down the sway bar end links. That is, don't do it with the suspension at full droop.

y0diggity
07-02-2009, 09:49 PM
Well sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the people that you know are morons.....No Offense, but if you are off roading and want some extra flex its cool to unhook them, but always hook them up before you hit the highway. With a lift and big tires if they had to get onto an on ramp they would probably just roll over. Sway bars were put there for a reason...added safety, and if you don't think they are needed then please stay off the roads.

The sway bar end link on my tahoe broke and it makes a world of difference not having it there. Actually makes some turns rather scary.

But to the OP the parts store gave you the wrong ones. There are 2 different sets, one for HD models and one for regular models, they probably gave you the HD ones since the lower A arm is quite a bit thicker. Take them back and tell them that they are too long and that you need some that are shorter.

I know they're not the HD parts. He and I went through that and I told him that I didn't want those as I didn't think I had anything under there that warranted them. I guess I can go look and see what other options they have for me. Maybe I'll look at Advance Auto too and see if theirs look different.

According to the part numbers, these are supposed to be correct, but I'll go on a search tomorrow and see if I can locate something different.

Thanks for the info. It's a bit frustrating, I really feel like the previous owner did something to the truck to make them not fit right. I can tell you that just by looking at the old parts that I hammered off, they have been broken for a loooooong time. I mean they were in really bad shape and there's absolutely no way that they had been holding anything together for quite some time.

---------- Post added at 07:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------

Be sure you have the truck sitting on the ground when you tighten down the sway bar end links. That is, don't do it with the suspension at full droop.

Right. I had it on the ground when I did them, I just cranked the wheel all the way in the direction of the side I was changing.

992door
07-02-2009, 11:05 PM
Well sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the people that you know are morons.....No Offense, but if you are off roading and want some extra flex its cool to unhook them, but always hook them up before you hit the highway. With a lift and big tires if they had to get onto an on ramp they would probably just roll over. Sway bars were put there for a reason...added safety, and if you don't think they are needed then please stay off the roads.

Yea i dont know that i would ever run without the front one but i dont have it on the rear

96ProCompTahoe
07-02-2009, 11:43 PM
i had to replace both of mine, snapped one on a sharp off ramp...

picked mine up from advance auto, and they look/fit a hell of alot better than those.

Ninety5PoloZ
07-03-2009, 11:20 AM
There is deffinately something wrong with the ones you got.

I can't remember the part number on mine, but they were exactly the same length as the old ones. And there wasn't a huge gap like on yours.

Good luck with the fix though

clean454
07-03-2009, 01:31 PM
is there a aftermarket sway bar to make handling and turning tighter? anyone kno

Dr. Overkill
07-05-2009, 07:38 PM
is there a aftermarket sway bar to make handling and turning tighter? anyone kno

Yes. I have Hotchkis front and rear on mine. The front is hollow so you shed a fair amount of weight swapping out the stock bar for it. Helwig probably makes bars for them, too but you'd have to check.

Dr. Overkill
07-18-2009, 09:43 PM
If you need front swaybar links, I have a pair of complete, unused ones. I'm fairly certain that these were for my hoe's stock swaybar, although I'm not sure why I have them. I might have gone with shorter links for my Hotchkis bar and simply never used these that may have come with it. Memory is fuzzy after 10 years...

Anyway, they're 8-3/4" end to end. If that's the right length for yours, and you want 'em, make me an offer I can't refuse and I'll ship 'em out.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x260/overkill_optical/Junk/IMG_5023.jpg