View Full Version : Lower Ball Joint
torsh6363
06-13-2009, 04:16 PM
Has anyone done this job? I already ordered the parts. A local shop wanted over $600 to replace both lowers. I figure I can get it done, but do I NEED a press or will a big effen hammer get the job done? If anyone has step-by-step instructions that would be awesome.
Thanks,
Jim
jmildoc
06-13-2009, 04:40 PM
Better off paying someone to do them. It's a pain.
torsh6363
06-13-2009, 06:26 PM
Probably, but I can't justify paying that much for something I know I can do. I just would like to know exactly what I need and what I'm in for.
Sepiroth
06-13-2009, 06:57 PM
Unless you have a ball joint remover and installer tool, your best bet is to have it done by a pro. Now you can also shop around. I would stay away from the chain stores and go with independent installers. A lot of times they will be cheaper.
jmildoc
06-13-2009, 07:44 PM
I know how to do it as well but just cause you know how to do something doesnt make it easy. I started doing them on my car and couldnt even separate the control arm and took it to a shop and they had to use an air chisel it was on so hard... then you have to press them out and press them back it...... A lift makes it easier to do to.. do you have all of the right tools?
pickle fork
press
air chisel just in case?
55belairtim
06-14-2009, 11:23 AM
take both arms off the vehicle then take it to a shop and see what they would charge, also did you get oversized balljoints, if you get a normal size balljoint it may creek inside the control arm because its not pressed in properly, dont know where your located but if your close to me ill do them for 60 bucks.
thanks tim
foreverfalcon40
06-14-2009, 10:35 PM
better off doing the UP BJ wheil your at it!
OKLAGMCRUISER
06-14-2009, 10:41 PM
take both arms off the vehicle then take it to a shop and see what they would charge, also did you get oversized balljoints, if you get a normal size balljoint it may creek inside the control arm because its not pressed in properly, dont know where your located but if your close to me ill do them for 60 bucks.
thanks tim
damn for that price it would be worth the shipping to send you the lca's with the worn out bj's in them and have your return ship them!
Lifted99Yukon
06-16-2009, 10:50 AM
Is it 2wd or 4wd?
I used to be Front End Tech for a few years. Did them everyday, all day. And alignments. Went to school. I am ASE Certified in Brakes, Front End, Engine Performance, Electrical Diagnosis.
If you dont have a Ball Joint Press Kit, or a Air Hammer, or Air Tools. I would suggest finding a good shop. $600 is insane.
Labor for 2wd. One side, Lower is .8 Hr. Both sides, lower is 1.6 Hrs. Depends on how much the shop charges labor.
Upper and Lower labor total: 3.7 hrs. Which I can knock it out in under 1 hour.
Common is $75-95 hr. Say they charge $85 an hour. Total of $136 for labor. Maybe $100 for parts for the best. Looking probally under $300.
That does not include a alignment. Lets say, $60 for a 2-wheel Alignment.
Of if it's 4x4:
One side for lower, 2.6 hrs. For both sides, lower, 3.8 hrs.
Both sides total, at $85 hr is $323 for labor.
Upper and Lower labor total: 6.4 hrs. Which I can knock out around 2 hours.
Still, not close to $600. I would only pay $600 if they have both upper and lower ball joints, alignment. And replaced with Moog.
hapyspaz
06-17-2009, 12:34 AM
$600 is about right if using Moog, doing the alignment, and doing upper and lower. Most shops will only tack on a little labor for the upper BJ, if any.
If you can get the arms off yourself, Napa usually has presses in their stores. Upside to that is, they mess up the part, they grb another one out of the stock room.
350VortecSSCT
06-21-2009, 12:54 AM
Yeah, Ball Joints...a durable good, easy to put in....but.........YOU HAVE TO BEAT THE SHIT OUT OF IT! its like a kid stuck on a mothers leg, wont let go...You'll have to use a jack hammer, air gun, hammer and flat head, and break it...IDK how the arms stay on and arent damaged but its cray...yes there will be clicking but after awhile of greasing and breaking them in it'll be good...be prepared for 2 hours of work...minimum
GreyFox
07-17-2009, 08:57 PM
just did mine.
it is a pain. but $100 in parts 1 weekend and you can save a lot of money. heck i did the uppers while i was at it.
Ninety5PoloZ
07-19-2009, 12:25 PM
Loan a tool from autozone, the press will barely work if its 4wd, I had to make a spacer out of some scrap steel so I could press them all the way back in. Also if you remove the upper balljoint first it will give you some room to hit the press with a hammer to knock the lower out, don't be afarid to hit it really hard after you have some good pressure on the balljoint.
I did mine a few weeks ago and its a PITA took me about 6 hours to do the uppers and lowers and I know what I'm doing, they just fought me the whole way.
Chevyrider619
03-13-2012, 10:22 PM
Well, i'm about to feel your pain fellows. I'm doig my lower's tomorrow, and yes i'm getting a loaner or might go to Harbor Freight not sure. Tips TIPS will appreciate them thanks.
longstand
05-11-2012, 09:56 PM
OHhh snap.. Iam in the same boat. I Hammer the Lower Ball JOINT out.. now i need to install the new one... I purchase 1 Diameter 45.79mm or 1.802 inches.. there is also a bigger one which is 47mm.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1999-GMC-Yukon-Denali-4WD/Ball-Joint-Lower/_/N-jdv2lZ8oxla?filterByKeyWord=Lower+Ball+Joint&fromString=search
The one i purchase the 45.79mm which seem a little big. I assume it will snap into that HOLE :). and Press using Vicegrep.. But hey, its my first Lower Ball JOint..
Advice us.. Is the correct size 45.79mm for my 1999 Yukon Denali 4x4??
SunlitComet
05-12-2012, 12:57 AM
size depends on whether they are stamped or forged arms.
longstand
05-12-2012, 03:54 AM
size depends on whether they are stamped or forged arms.
How do you if its Stamp or Forge.. The original i had, has Groves on the side?
retorq
05-12-2012, 10:14 AM
Sounds like a stamped arm to me ... also they aren't going to snap in or press in using vice grips lol. You need the correct tool, you can get it form Autozone. The tops bolt in. You should probably do that at the same time maybe bushings too
longstand
05-12-2012, 07:45 PM
HAHAAHA, SHI!! I knew this will not be an easy job..
and yes your correct, I have replace all Bushing on the front suspension and Lower and Upper Ball Joint, The only one i have problem is the lower ball joint.
taylorjm
05-12-2012, 08:51 PM
Hey Sunlitcomet, does the stamped or forged arms only apply to the obs style? I'm going to be replacing ball joints on my nbs and didn't see any options for moog ball joints, just the one part number.
Thanks!
SunlitComet
05-12-2012, 09:27 PM
Year, weight class, and drive type please. I will get them for you.
taylorjm
05-12-2012, 09:52 PM
2003 tahoe z71 4wd. I ordered Moog k6540 and k6541 but haven't installed them yet.
SunlitComet
05-13-2012, 12:40 AM
Well then you already have them then.
longstand
05-16-2012, 03:59 AM
I'm been ordering a few pair of sway bar bushing and none of them will FIT the original Bracket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?year=1999&make=GMC&model=Yukon%2BDenali&vi=1355510&keyword=sway!s!stabilizer+bar+bushing
Any idea why this aftermarket bushing will not work on the original Bracket for the Front Sway Bar?
retorq
05-16-2012, 08:41 AM
Why not measure your bar and get the right one based on that rather then guesses over the internet?
longstand
05-16-2012, 11:38 AM
I have order a few different bushing. and i found one that will fit perfectly into sway bar.
I'm Talking about the Bushing Bracket, where you put the bushing INTO the Bracket and bolt into frame.. The Bushing seems to be to tall for me to BOLT into the Frame.
I'm sorry guys.. My English is not great..
The Correct bushing for the diameter of the sway bar, will
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