Rear Axle Movement

[Waterking]

I installed a 9.5 AMM, 4 new autoride MR shocks, Hotchkiss rear sway bar, and Ground Force 2.5/3 spindle/spring lowering kit on a 2007 Escalade EXT. I have 24" Bazo's (35mm offset) with 305/45R24 FALKEN ZIEX S/TZ tires (34.7" diameter). I have clearanced the front and rear so that I have minimal to no rubbing statically. When one side or the other is under load and compression the rear will move forward about 1/4 to 3/8" which causes rubbing on the lower part of the front of the rear well. Statically I have about 3/8" of clearance between the tire and well. I have tested this several times on uneven hills (front up) and the rear end does go forward when compressed further.
1. Is this movement normal or is it a function of lowering besides the obvious closer to top?
2. Can it be corrected by using poly bushings in the trailing arms and are they available?
3. If I slot the upper and lower mounting holes on the axle about 1/4" to the front and use washers with a 1/4" spacer welded to them (filling in the area of the slot that is not used so mounting is tight and can't slip back, that way I can turn the washers 180 deg and reinstall axle in stock location) thereby moving the axle rearward, will it affect the pinion angle and handling adversely? And should I do both lower and upper or just one?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I do not want to lose auto leveling or change the equipment/tires/wheels installed.

[Waterking]

Bump, Anyone? At least to know if the movement is normal?

[Modded]

Yes rubbing the lower part of the front rear well is normal when going 24s or bigger, but with only a rear 3" drop, that does not happen much.
This being said, when the car is lowered it does in fact mess up some of the angle of the rear control arms, causing the axle to move towards that wheel liner plastic bulge in the front rear wheel well.
The DJM rear hardware kit comes with traling arm relocators, and shorter sway bar links. It will most likely solve your problem, but is by no means needed on these SUVs/Trucks from 2000-2012. You only need tem because ou chose such a large tire, when I had my 295/35/24 they will not rub anything at all, while still offering the same tire load rating as the stock tires.
Send a message to DJMDIRECT (vendor on here_ about that rear harware kit and he will get you one at a cheap price, here is what it looks like and the part numner.
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?category%7ccategory_root%7c-30=Suspension&category%7ccat_-30%7c373=Lowering+Parts&canned_results_trigger=&partfamilyid=3360
Keep in mind you want RK2007

[Waterking]

Thank you very much for the reply and info. Just knowing the rear will move this much under these conditions with stock trailing arms and bushings is a relief. So many things were changed at once including replacing the 10 bolt with a 14 bolt that I could not figure out if I made an installation error or what. I know the tire size is too large, made a stupid purchase mistake and finances/situation prevented getting different ones so had to live with it. Reconfiguring the front fenders in the rear, fascia corner braces and moving the windshield washer tank was the REAL piti. The rear was bolt in and other than reconfiguring liner with heat gun I did not think there was a problem until I drove it. Checking it statically through range of motion with a jack and no rear spring showed it would be close but not touch so when it ripped the liner push pin holders out I was surprised. Pinion angle does not seem to be adversely affected unless I am not measuring it correctly.