DIY: Tahoe Rear Brakes

[Eagle]

For diy front brakes look here:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13126


DIY REAR BRAKES

Tools:

14mm short socket
18mm short socket (or long 18mm box end wrench)
19mm open end
6" C clamp
Propane/MAPP Torch (only if removing rear rotors/adjusting parking brake)
Wheel Chocks (located in rear cubby)

(4x4s reportedly may use a 12mm and 16mm for the caliper... please read thread)


Supplies:

Rear pads (Dual piston calipers, btw)
Brake Cleaner
Disc brake lube



Getting Ready...

Chock the front wheels

Jack the vehicle up, secure it with jack stands, and remove the wheels.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00043.jpg

Where I placed the jackstands
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00033.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00023.jpg


Basically it is a standard brake job, so I have only pictured some basic differences from other front/rear brake jobs you may have done before.

REAR BRAKE SPECIFICS

Use the C-clamp to compress the pistons while the Caliper is still mounted and the pads are still in. Trust me, it is WAY easier this way.

Where you are at Now:

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00013.jpg


Once they are compressed use the 14mm socket and 19 mm open end wrench to unbolt the caliper.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00063.jpg

A coat hanger makes a good caliper hanger if you bend it around the Upper link.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00072.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00082.jpg

---------- Post added at 12:15 AM ---------- Previous post was Yesterday at 11:16 PM ----------

If you are not changing rotors or are not going to adjust the parking brake, you don't need to remove the Caliper bracket...

but if you do, you will need the propane torch.

This is why... from the factory they are held in place with 'yellow' locktite.
Yellow locktite only releases when heated.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00092.jpg

So heat each bolt with your propane/mapp torch for a couple of minutes...

then remove them with your 18 mm socket.


You have your caliper bracket free.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00131.jpg

Do yourself a favor and go clean it up in the kitchen sink, especially the clips the pads ride in.

The rotor will simply lift off.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00102.jpg


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_00112.jpg




This is the parking brake adjuster...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_0012.jpg

GM were dumbasses and didn't make it auto adjusting, nor even externally adjustable.

As seen in this pic, you would turn the upper edge of the star wheel toward the backing plate to tighten the brakes.


there are some good DIYS out there on adjusting the parking brake without the special tool, so I basically followed them. I put the brake down 1/2 (even with the hood pop), and tightened the star wheel until the rotor wouldn't fit over the pads anymore. This turned out to be slightly too loose, so next time I would probably tighten them with the pedal slightly farther up.

Once you are finished adjusting it, release the parking brake, and reinstall the rotor.



Before reinstalling the caliper bracket, you will probably want to lube the clips with some Disc brake lube

Before

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_0014.jpg

After

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_0015.jpg
(yes it is too much, but I wanted it to show up on film)



BEFORE YOU INSTALL PADS, PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AT THIS!

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b106/AttackEagle/Tahoe/DSC_0018.jpg

The pads are NOT THE SAME.

The top one with the wider spaced rivets goes on the backside of the caliper
The lower one with the narrow spaced rivets goes on the wheel side of the caliper.




Basically at this point you just reassemble everything.

I apologize for the lack of pictures of every detail, my "photographer" abandoned me to go watch Johnny Quest.
I hope this helps someone.

[puckhead]

Lol, tell your photographer he did a good job! Thanks for the write up, really is gonna help out. did once a while back and it is easier than it seems. Sure this will help a lot of people!

[LazyAssLou]

Pretty damn cool! Thanks for that!

[BlizzardX23]

Stickied....Good Job

[REAL TEXAS TAHOE]

Good Write up. Thanks for all of us who really need the help. I'm not ashamed to admit it.

[Noto81]

In your last pic of the pads is it just me or do you have the notes under the pic backwards? The pad on the top has the closer spaced rivets and the pad on the bottom has the wider spaced rivets. Great write up though, thanks.

[Eagle]

No, it's right. You are apparently looking at the black holes, not the rivets.

[thehoe92]

why does it matter.. what happens if you get them backwards?

funny you do this write up right after I had Blizz help me do mine

great write up :)

[Anthony]

Nice Write-up :imo:

[Noto81]

No, it's right. You are apparently looking at the black holes, not the rivets.

My bad, I see it now. I was looking below the pads on the backing plate. Sorry for blowing up

[Eagle]

why does it matter.. what happens if you get them backwards?

funny you do this write up right after I had Blizz help me do mine

great write up :)
if you get them backwards they sit cock-eyed; the rivet hits the caliper.

[Redhoe01]

Did this over the weekend and my truck called for a 12MM Socket and 16MM open end to loosen the caliber bolt. I have the two piston calibers and mine is 4x4, not sure if yours is 4X4 but that may be the difference. Either way, great write up.

[Eagle]

no, mines 2wd. also dual piston Calipers though.

[Redhoe01]

no, mines 2wd. also dual piston Calipers though.

I see why you said 6" C clamp. My 5" would not make it to the other side of the caliber. I had to take them off to push the pistons back in. Wow, there are some serious weener joke opportunities there.

[ecordell]

The pads that I got weren't like yours. I think it would be pad specific if there were an inner and outer pad that had to go in a specific spot. Either way the write up helped me out lastnight.

[Noto81]

The pads that I got weren't like yours. I think it would be pad specific if there were an inner and outer pad that had to go in a specific spot. Either way the write up helped me out lastnight.

The old and new were the same on mine as well. But I made sure too look closely. Thanks Eagle

[YUOnDaGround]

if you get them backwards they sit cock-eyed; the rivet hits the caliper.

That EFFFING happened to me! I got new pads and rotors put on by a local shop and now the thing pulls hard to the right everytime I brake. I am putting new pads on tonight...the right way.

[ISELLSPEED]

Just did rear rotors and pads on mine last night and they are noisy as heck.
They squeak as I go down the road. Now the backing plates are almost gone but I could not replace them at this time. We bent what was left of the backing plates out of the way and didnt think that would be an issue. I dont know what could be causing the noise. Gonna check the rivets but other then that I am lost.

Any ideas guys ?
Help




2000 Tahoe 4x4, dual piston calibers with the 13" rotors.

[gdmatson]

Thanks for the write up! I have an 04 4x4 and the caliper needed 12mm/16mn. Everything went smooth. My emergency brake works again!

[tekkitan]

Did mine a couple weekends ago. Didn't need a torch to get the 18mm bolts free though. Just my breaker bar and my arms ;)

The writeup was a great guide though.

[David C]

thanks for the instruction you made my brake job run smooth

[DansOtter]

Thanks for posting this... Just did my brakes and it was very helpful.

[Eagle]

very welcome