Big 3 upgrade?

[danimalmax]

Does anyone have any info on a write up for a big 3 electrical upgrade? My lights dim when i use my windows and i have an 8 high mod that will soon be a 12 high mod, not sure if thats enough lights to require the big 3 upgrade

any opinions on this and available write ups, pics?

[WrenchGuy]

Yeah I made one.

http://tahoeforum.com/showthread.php?t=7828

That will do it.

---------- Post added at 08:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 AM ----------

Also the seats motors and window motors suck juice. There will always be a slight dimming caused by the 14 volts turning into 12 volts through the battery.

This upgrade will definitely help with those lights added.

[danimalmax]

dang! thanks

[WrenchGuy]

dang! thanks


I'm surprised it isn't sticky worthy.

[tann808]

Do the Big Three and if that's not enough, i'd suggest a second or third battery. I installed a second Yellow Top in the top left side of the engine bay (Thanks to JKMotorsport for the write up on the dual battery install)

I'm also running additional Kinetiks in the rear (3) HC2400 because of my stereo but if you don't need that much I'd suggest the second battery if the Big Three is not enough.

[J-Will]

ok. here i come with the stupid questions. what is the big 3 mod. what does it do. and why do you do it?

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

ok. here i come with the stupid questions. what is the big 3 mod. what does it do. and why do you do it?

it's an addition to or upgrade of the 3 main grounds for your electrical system.

battery to ground
engine block to ground
alternator to ground

Pat

---------- Post added at 09:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 AM ----------

I'm surprised it isn't sticky worthy.

i think it should be too.

[bass1775]

Just read about the Big 3. Sounds good, can this be done as added insurance? I'm not having any electrical issues but, I've added some electrical stuff, ie; audio system, MSD, Driving lamps. Also, am interested in adding that second battery. Any install instructions?

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

Just read about the Big 3. Sounds good, can this be done as added insurance? I'm not having any electrical issues but, I've added some electrical stuff, ie; audio system, MSD, Driving lamps. Also, am interested in adding that second battery. Any install instructions?

check post #2 for a link to a how to. it will not hurt to do the big3 even with all stock items in the truck. in my 99 i just added some 8 gauge to each of the big 3 items and saw a difference.

Pat

[tast101]

WrenchGuy's big 3 writeup
I figured I'd post up my installation of the Big 3 to help the guys out. Its enough I think for everyone to get an idea. I did mine with the plan of having Audio system grounds to the frame. In which I grounded the battery directly to it.

Here we go, I will acknowledge a couple things I didn't utilize cuz it was too late...lol (sorta)

These will be the areas your going to be workin with when you pop the hood

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1065.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1066.jpg

I tried to make my pics user friendly as possible. The first wire I'm doing is the battery to frame ground.(This could be run to the chassis but for good current flow from the back grounds I'm going to the frame directly.)

You can run this wire down next to the radiator. UTILIZE the plastic loop that is open on the radiator!! I cut my wire already before I noticed it. 1/0 fits right in it. You may have to put your terminal on after its through there though.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1067.jpg

Then there is the bumper support bolts that make a perfect ground connection. They're right under the Washer Fluid jug behind the drivers side fog light.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1068.jpg

Grab your 15mm socket and remove the 3 bolts that hold it on. Easy job except for the damn dirt in your face. Wear goggles...lol

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1069.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1070.jpg

Then use whatever tools you got to clean the metal off to make it bare. I used a Dremel but whatever you can come up with will work as long as you get everything off of it.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1071.jpg

Then do the same thing on the mating face of the support and where the connection will be me made.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1072.jpg

I used a step bit to make the terminal hole larger to fit the bolt. Gravy. Then just bolt the support back on with your wire connected to it.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1074.jpg

Make the connection at the battery and your finished with the battery to frame ground. I used KnuKonceptz terminals which have "compression fittings" so not having the terminal on yet was fine but I cut the wire too short to utilize the loop on the radiator. I didn't see it before hand oh well.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1076.jpg

The Alt to Positive is very simple and I'm sure everyone has a grasp on that. I've determined that fusing this thing is installers preference. I'm not to worried about it myself.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1077.jpg

Then there was commotion over the chassis to engine ground on mine being quite long. Well I probed all over the place and the old ground seems to me to be the best since its a pain the ass to get to the other end of the stock one. I just went from the stock chassis end to the mount bolt on the Alt bracket.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa135/WrenchGuy420/IMG_1078.jpg

May not be perfect but should put everyone in the right direction on doing this thing...lol Zip tie at the end. I also used rubberized undercoating to coat the battery to frame ground.

Ask away!

[ItsAdam1]

I upgraded my alt wire from 8 gauge to 4 gauge which helped..

[oak510_tahoe]

Will this help with my lights dimming every time I hit the window switches? ( when the window maxes out at top or bottom the lights dim if you hold the switch )

[MikeTheApeman]

here's a question that I don't think has been answered yet on this:

Every person I've seen talk about this has major stereo or lighting deals, so they usually run 1/0 cable when doing this upgrade. Is there a some kind of guide to what gauge cable you really need?

Someone who is running a stock system could use.....?
Someone running a 200w sub and a 4x50w amp for door speaks could get by with....?

Right now I'm running bone stock stereo. Plan is to eventually add a 200-250w amp and sub, 4x50w for the doors. I doubt I need 1/0 for that. I know, the bigger the cable, the less resistance therefore better current flow, but I think 1/0 would be overkill. Would 4 gauge work just fine? Maybe 2 gauge?

You guys get what I'm asking here? :)

[Max]

4awg would work fine, honestly it's overkill for me to use 1/0 but I have extra laying around.

[oreowizard98]

Very good post. I hate to say I have been in car stereo for a while and never thought of all that. I did ground the battery directly to the frame and the amps as well. Real good info.

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

here's a question that I don't think has been answered yet on this:

Every person I've seen talk about this has major stereo or lighting deals, so they usually run 1/0 cable when doing this upgrade. Is there a some kind of guide to what gauge cable you really need?

Someone who is running a stock system could use.....?
Someone running a 200w sub and a 4x50w amp for door speaks could get by with....?

Right now I'm running bone stock stereo. Plan is to eventually add a 200-250w amp and sub, 4x50w for the doors. I doubt I need 1/0 for that. I know, the bigger the cable, the less resistance therefore better current flow, but I think 1/0 would be overkill. Would 4 gauge work just fine? Maybe 2 gauge?

You guys get what I'm asking here? :)

overkill or not i would suggest running as large of gauge wire you can afford. there's always room for future growth that way and you won't have to pull more or new wire.